Recent content by 79Vette

My current bellhousing is bent, and I didn't notice when I installed it. I adjusted the circular runout with dowel pins, but the bellhousing isn't parallel to the block face. This has put a bunch of preload on the input shaft of my Ranger gear splitter and ruined the input shaft and mainshaft...

I am looking into putting a TR4050 or NV4500 into my 1009, which currently has a SM465. The thread below has a great table of parts used, but its been a few years and the links are not working...

The rubber seal is in place, and the gate closes tight and does not bounce around or move. Like if you grab it you cannot move it That said there is always a lot of vibration in these trucks, and even some frame flex when driving. Because of how the latch is worn it's a sharp point digging...

My m1009 makes a horrible loud and high pitched squeaking noise at idle and when driving that seems to be coming from the driver side rear tailgate. I know this sounds absurd, but it's bad to the point I can't drive the truck for more than 10 minutes without getting a headache. 3" straight...

I have a full shop. 3 and 5 axis CNC mills, a mill-turn, a live tool lathe, some manual lathes and a couple large Bridgeports Facing the bellhousing will make it too short, and it will require shims to obtain the correct block to transmission face spacing. Re-boring the input bearing register...

Mine is a normal manual shift. I cut a hole in the floor and there is a separate shifter next to the SM465, and I have a twin stick shifter on my np205. So there's a lot of levers in the cab haha. I thought the front bearing looked like an SM465. I think the front shaft seal is similar too...

This is great info, thank you! I have the Robert shaw thermostat and 2799 clutch. I'll look into on the fan upgrade though. I just built a new bumper to move the winch and lights out of the way and that helped, but it didn't solve the problem. I'm hoping to get on the highway with the new...

No, I haven't tried a pilot bearing. I know the bell housing is bent because I can measure the circular run out of the crankshaft relative to the bellhousing pilot bore and it is not concentric. The flat face of the bell housing is also not parallel to the mounting face of the crank I've been...

Yes, I do. I installed my gear drive timing set, flowkooler water pump, fluidamper, and new 2.5" thick aluminum radiator last night. I had to move the AC condenser forward to make space for the thicker radiator, and I'm having the same problem noted earlier on this thread where the new...

Radiator was new 4 years ago, fins look fine. Only thing I can think of is it's a aluminum core with plastic tanks and the core is only 1.75" thick. I have a new all aluminum unit with a 2.5" core I'm installing soon, if that's not it maybe there are cracks. It's not burning coolant and I...

I am the original poster. I do have AC and a turbo, but there is no trans cooler because it's a manual (sm465) That's interesting about the fan and improved cooling at highway speeds. Do you have the stock fan or is it aftermarket? And what specific fan clutch do you have? At this point I'm...

Why do you think the fan clutch is the problem at high speed/load? I agree the fan is extremely important at low speed (deep sand/mud, or idling in traffic). But at highway speed there is 70+ mph air blowing through the entire radiator core from the vehicle speed. I'd be impressed if there's...

I was always told to use a 20 or 30 wt non detergent oil for olite bushings. They are designed to be self lubricating and grease supposedly plugs the pores in the material and defeats the self lubricating effect. Idk

Yeah, my current bellhousing is bad. It fits over the starter just fine and I've run it for awhile, but I need to replace it with one that is not bent. I'm getting like 10k miles out of the pilot bushing before it's so torn up I start having problems shifting. As far as I can tell nobody...

Ah ok. That explains why I haven't seen one. Thanks again!