Recent content by CP92

I was told that the hole is supposed to have the first 1/4" or so unthreaded and at a diameter that bottom of the bolt knurling fits in snuggly and the threads beginning beyond that. I'm wondering how I am going to pull that off. Just pull out the existing helicoils, replace them, and then...

Somewhere online I read that the helicoils are too hard to drill out and that got me spooked. I was thinking if just modifying the bolts works then that would be easiest. I'm not sure I'm confident enough in my knowlege and skills to mess with those holes very much.

I've been doing some more thinking. I like to try options that are reversible or, at least, don't ruin chances of other options first. I'm now wondering how bad an attempt to drill out 1/4" of helicoil will damage what's left and prevent me from getting a bolt started. I'm now thinking I...

The starter work has been delayed due to family health issues, but it looks like I have another challenge to consider too. It appears the knurled part of the bolts should go into the block's mounting holes roughly 1/4". The holes in mine are threaded to the entire way due to the helicoils...

I'm having the starter rebuilt at a shop in San Angelo, TX on Friday and hope to have it back in the truck that evening or the next morning. I ordered ARP starter bolts from Amazon that should be in tomorrow and I ground down the Helicoil protrusion mentioned earlier and chased the threads with...

I guess we're on the same page, Guys. The M10x1.5 tap I ordered should be in Tuesday, so I guess I'll get started back on it then. In the meantime, maybe some others will add their thoughts. It sure makes me feel better about working on this thing when smart and experienced guys chime in and...

So, you think those are helicoils, should not be protruding out of the holes and I need to grind the remaining one flush?

I've been studying things a little and have questions. I don't know what the mounting holes are supposed to look like, but it appears to me that mine have both been repaired with threadserts or something similar with the threadserts protruding out past the block's mounting surface (the far...

Thanks for the video. I guess I'll look into MT28 availability too. Good info!

Thank you very much. I had a hell of a time trying to locate bolts, but I think I got some ordered from these guys: https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/gm-starter-bolt-15544950?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM%3D They'll probably email me in a day or two to tell me they are out of stock and...

Guys, My starter started making a grinding sound when starting. The truck would fire right up instantly, but the starter made the screeching/grinding sound for the instant it takes to start the engine. I removed the starter and found a few things that concern me. First, the mounting bracket...

Guys, I bought an M1009 about a week ago and have been reading through the forums to learn more about it and how to keep it running smoothly. So far everything is checking out pretty good, but while I was under it checking for the starter bracket (it has it, thank God), I noticed that there is...

THE RESULTS: Guys, I found that guages were both mechanically impaired...the needles were stuck against the inside of the housings. Removing the gauges and tapping on them sharply from the sides freed the needles and allowed them to work again. The fuel level sending unit was shot and cleaning...

I just found another post where you left this comment: "Oh, and one other thing to check... once you verify the gage wiring and ground are good, if you disconnect the "S" wire from the gage and measure resistance from the S wire to ground you should get somewhere between 30 and 240 ohms...

Ok, I pulled the sending unit, cleaned it, and measured ohms at various float arm positions. All the way up (Full), it read ~27 ohms and all the way hanging down (below Empty) it read ~3,000 ohms. Holding the float about level with the bottom of the sender body bracket, it read roughly 100...