Recent content by JasonS

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/hydro-max-brake-assist-pics-added-long-read.16065/page-12#post-2630285

The brakes are hydraulic with air assist, not air over hydraulic. There are brake boosters using power steering pressure if that is of interest.

I have had the Benmar heaters for a bit over a year now and wanted to provide an update. While the cabin heater has been flawless, the engine heater was quite finicky. While it always took longer to start, it was now very hard to start and tended to die out after a few minutes. There is a...

The only tricky part of the reassembly is setting the tapered roller bearings. The TM has two methods: the first requires a fixture which I don't have, the second involved removing all shims, torquing the bearing retainer, measuring the resulting gap between retainer and case with a feeler...

Yes, there was just enough axial movement for the synchronizer assembly to pop out of gear and into neutral. It only did it on rare occasion. After installing the homemade spacer, it worked as it should. While I was picking up quite a lot of metal on the drain plug magnet, the transfer case...

New sprag clutch assemblies are available for $200 + shipping.

So, the transfer case came out for repair. I used a transmission jack and engine hoist to get the transfer case on the ground; then put it on an engine stand. When I initially bought the truck, it wanted to pop out of gear on occasion. I found that the input shaft was moving axially due to...

The front drive section can be slide forward and out once the driveshafts are removed. The sprag clutch can then be removed and replaced. The front output shaft is piloted by the rear output shaft; these two didn't want to part ways due to wear. Note that this is steel on steel; no bushing.

I have a bobbed M818 which I purchased two years ago. I found that the front axle did not "pull" when the transfer case was cold but did work when the transfer case was hot and the oil was thin (reverse works fine in all conditions). Since I had experience with deuce sprag clutch, I embarked...

I know that the tractor version of the multifuel struggled with head studs and went through several iterations...

I have found it much easier to simply weld a nut onto the broken bolt/ stud/ pipe plug than trying to drill it out.

Added a fuel pressure gauge: 1/8 npt to 3AN fitting in the shutoff solenoid, 48" braided stainless steel hose, vintage Cummins gauge from a prominent auction site, and hand fabricated gauge mount. I bled the air out at the gauge after the initial startup. Maxes out at ~175psi.

I have gaskets, water pumps, bearings etc, one parts 331 engine, and a rebuild 400.

Plasma cutter is a little coarse for this. I start the cut with an abrasive cutoff wheel and finish with a reciprocating body saw. Nice cut and doesn't put all the cutoff dust in the air.

Finished up the driver's side hood panel. I cut out a square comprising the factory hole where the intake passed through and will use it on the passenger side. I used the hinges and latches from a spare deuce side cover to make this cover open. Not perfect but nothing on the truck is.