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the bulb replacement only works for LEDs if you have a specific thermal flasher, it has never worked for the Narton flasher, this
is a known issue, Truklite refers to it as a “sneak path”…I’ve got the proper replacement LED for the Narton turn signal unit, I’ve tested every
known thermal...
First off, which lamps did you convert to LED? Fits it’s any of the actual flashing lights? You generally need a “no load” thermal flasher.
As far as thr the light switch? Stop cleaning and replace with an NOS from a trusted source, HPG, MAC or Kascar..do not buy parts on eBay!
that pic Of the...
The hydraulic fan delete kits are a good option, either from the one you bought or from Mike at BDC….I use my own home grown kit, we don’t sell them unless I install them myself in the shop, but it’s a nice change for the person who doesn’t monitor temps and you don’t have to worry about the old...
there are already laws on the books for occupants riding in the bed of a truck with no restraints in Cali, been such a thing many years ago.
If you’re gonna start doing event transportation? You better have good insurance.
the tach signal comes from the Generator, the power comes from a gauge that’s tied to the ignition in the “run” position, like the heater and wiper motor.
fit yes…work no.
6.2L CUCV needs like a 4523, 4524 or 4879, but the top cover has to be used off your old pump because of the type of electrical connectors.
what model year is the CUCV?
what Makes you think you have the wrong dip stick?
Are you checking your fluid level correctly? Engine running in neutral?
your fluid isn’t low based on your pic…you are aware how to read that dip stick? The 2 dots are hight and low “cold” marks, the cross hatch’s are
“Hot” fluid level marks...
the fix is the cover being replaced…it’s not uncommon for the fitting to be corroded, I just started to loop the glycol lines back to each other because the set up is over kill…but I have new covers.
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