Recent content by TechnoWeenie

Self-tappers will vibrate out. They're not used for loadbearing. You want either through-bolt with Nylok/K-lok or rivnut/jacknut with threadlock.

I just hope those aren't self-tapping.

That system is about as simple as you can make it. The only real point of failure you had already pointed out - the solenoid. That's a wear item, as mentioned. If it fails in the open position I just use the manual switch. If it fails in the closed position I can disconnect it and... use the...

I don't want to get too far into the weeds and hijack the OPs post about his panel, but I'll try to give some general info.... The answer is....Yes .... But realistically, no. First is, most RV fridges are gonna be 12VDC/110VAC. 24V or 48V fridges are niche products, and you're gonna pay for...

On the hood. I have spacers and proper hardware for a permanent hood installation. Basically just a grown up version of the solargizer - more power and instead of 24V this charges each 12v battery separately, so no issues with unbalancing.

Coming soon, to an M1009 hood near me. 2x 20W solar panels. One for each battery. I also have 2x100w panels for the roof for the 24V rear battery bank, but that's a future mod.

I think you're missing the point. You don't want to rely on 120VAC in a mobile rig if you don't have to. Everything should be the voltage of the battery bank, unless not avoidable. That's why I suggested and planned out a discrete system that doesn't rely on a 120VAC inverter, and have...

How do you see the inverter powering things? It doesn't power much at all. That's the whole point. You ditch the 120V panel. You're not running 120VAC through the system. You're running 24V. You can charge either 24V system with any (or all) points of charge. You can have a solar panel...

Yep. Plug in on the side of the truck charges battery bank, front and rear. Yes, input and output are same voltage and exist simultaneously so the 120/240 coming in will power the charger, which will power any existing 24V loads then the remainder is put in the house battery bank. Ditto goes...

As 'complicated' as it all sounds, it's actually a pretty good example of KISS. Truck = 24V Alternator = 24V Battery = 24V Charge Controller = 24V Fridge = 24V Lighting = 24V Phone charger, internet, laptops, etc = 24V (some through a USB C adapter) Vs. Truck = 24V Alternator = 24V Battery =...

48V comes in handy with large loads - higher voltage = lower amperage. Watts are watts. 48V @ 100A is the same as 12V @ 400A. The batteries remain the same, they're just in a different configuration. Pricing should be roughly the same. The thing is, when it comes to mobile, there aren't really...

Just shy of 2KW with factory alternator - 70A @28V I'm in the process of redoing a box for my M923A2 which has 4x 540W mono solar panels. The panels are pretty close to 4' x 8' so 4 fit almost perfectly on the 16' box. Planned battery bank will be 30Kwh. So far it's been tested with 2 panels and...

Should be tinned copper. Like I said, it's really high quality stuff. It's not just the 'unknown' but also the space it takes up. Had to make the same decision with my M934. Freed up a ton of space. Probably could have launched the space shuttle from that panel. I personally prefer a 24V...

.mil used some high quality wire. The problem, however, is multifold. 1. Wiring is constantly moving - it's a whole different ballgame than a stationary house that doesn't move. 2. You have no clue what modifications were made while or after it was in service. 3. The panel is overkill for just...

That's an entirely different scenario. I have a Whelen Cantrol WC for that....