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86 M1009 replacing the rockers and part of the floor pan due to rust. Ordered all the parts from LMC and most have worked out just fine (with small modifications). Problem I have is the "channel" (where the outer rocker sits near the door) of the front floor pan matching the channel of the...
Thanks for sharing your build - looks great!
Doesn't look like you made it to the door panels yet.... curious to know what paint to use on them to best match the original burgundy color. Duplicolor Carmine red?
I have used SS for a few how-to forums but didn't know there was a South Dakota member page. I'm up in the NE corner of SD - Britton, SD. Was down in SF for a number of years and wish I knew about Duceman51 in Scottland! I would have bought a bunch of parts! 86 M1009
The voltage of the battery was 12.6 before the start of the testing. Using the regulator plug, testing the B+ (12.6, B- 0.0 - key off and 12.2 key on using the back battery as the neg). To perform the test you highlighted, I created 2 individual leads and put them onto the regulator 1 & 2...
I definitely will - right now the seats are out as I'm working on some rust restoration. The speedometer was a side project giving my back a break from bending over sanding.
Tow4, thanks again fir the insight, yes- I did the test you outlined in post #3, and the alt2 showed 11v while the engine was running. My alt 1 is a civi, it's working correctly after replacing. Light golwes once the key is on and goes out after startup. Luckily NAPA has a lifetime warranty...
Thanks for all the help. Relays working and I did need to replace the 10 amp fuse, but still not working. Got the exciter plug to show 21v with the key on but Alt 2 just not working. I rebuilt that alt with a kit off ebay. Individual parts all check out good, all the isolation disks are in...
Thanks for the info. I removed both the reduction gearbox and the sleeve with the yellow gear. Cleaned everything up ans put it back together. The reduction box gets locked up intermittently when I connect it to the yellow gear and spin it. Works great, then locks up. The small metal...
I'm having the same issue and trying to find a replacement for this part. In my case the little square pin was rounded off and doesn't drive the plastic gear. Want is this called so I can look for the part. Thanks!
Many thanks for the feedback!
I said the junction block, but I ment the "black dimond shaped thing". That is what I cleaned on the truck side.
Today I tested the fusable links, all checked out.
On the Gen 2 regulator plugs, key off Red 24v, brown 0.0. Key on red 24 volts, brown 0.0...
86 M1009 - - A few years ago my Gen 2 went out so I moved the Gen 1 over and purchased a Civilian alternator to replace Gen 1. Recently Gen 1 light (civilian) came on. So, I used a multimeter to check voltage to the batteries and Gen 1 was pushing out 16v and Gen 2 14v. To me, that indicated...
It turned out to be a fried starter solenoid and an issue with the spindle of the starter (was missing a bearing or something and the shaft was loose). Ordered a new starter from a shop that rebuilds them and it fires right up. Turns out the shop owner was a mechanic in the Army and knew a lot...
Ok so I did the dog head and still once I turn the key, it continues to cycle and I have to pull the battery cables to get it to stop. What’s next? Are there any fuse links that are hidden? I can’t find one that is blown. Time to pull the starter? Thanks for the feedback!
No offence taken Firefox - I had to look it up!
So I found one of the fuse links that had fried, replaced the link and hooked the batteries back up and tried to start it up and the starter kicked in and would not stop cranking even with the key out of the ignition. Luckily I didn't have the...
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