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Update: Not sure what to make of this. I checked connections and looked for shorts for several hours. Couldn't find anything. I put an amp clamp on the positive lead and reconnected. Wasn't showing anything. Waited and waited and showed nothing. No smoke, nothing getting hot. I have been able...

Two steps forward and one step back.... Fuel system is fairly clean now and all the old fuel has been removed from everywhere accessible. Tank is patched from the pinholes and looks to be a good long term repair. The new fuel pump (single at this point) is installed and plumbed. I checked the...

That's where I've missed the boat. Didn't realize it unscrewed. Was expecting it to fall out.

Yes that is correct. There were only 2 on this unit. Someone had already been tinkering before they sat it in the field. One of the three was completely missing. Just to make sure, part #11 in your diagram is suppose to be removable correct? All the parts I was able to remove except for #11...

Thank you for the good info. Will definitely look inside these panels for mouse houses and any potential chewed wires before putting batteries on it. I've removed both fuel pumps. The police department I bought it from said that was the orginal reason it was left abandoned. I've got a new one...

Got the caps off and sprayed everything sown with carb cleaner. I slowly rotated the engine and I can see the mechanism behind the button rotating. I can not tell if it's pumping out and in. I have rotated it and tapped on the inner section but still can't tell if it's plunging out/in. It's...

Checking this tonight. Should I be concerned about the old fuel in the injector lines? Take them loose and let the old fuel out? I think the biggest issue with this one was all the water in the lower sections (water separator, fuel pumps, tanks, etc). I'm hopeful the upper sections were...

Looks like it's a Ambac-50 and the throttle cable does move freely. I'm going to remove the center screws as you suggest and check for rotation.

I've bought a MEP-003A that was literally sitting in a field for several years (full of fuel). The fuel system is a mess and I'm working through that now. No working fuel pump, thick sludge in tank, lines and water separator half full of water. This fuel is a next level of varnish. The kind of...

The meter on the front panel shows in the green and occasionally bounces back and forth across the green/red line on the right side. No I'm testing at the connection terminals and not the battery posts themselves.

DC Charging voltage looks to peak around 31.6v DC. Again seems high but while watching it on DMM it goes between 30.0v and 31.6. I'm letting it run for at least and hour and going to check the voltage periodically.

That's great news. I'm going to hook up my new rectifer and see what DC charging voltage I get.

Yes it does. It's set to v-ma/2

So I can't make heads or tails of this value but this is what the analog meter shows.....it's set on the 100ACV setting.

Thank you for the info and incite. We had an old analog meter here at work that I'll try and locate. I would be intresting to see what the old analog meter shows. I will try and locate a 350 kOhm resistor to take reading from with my DMM for comparison. I'm just trying to keep the smoke in on...

Yes I have had charging issues (not charging) since I bought the unit. When I first started troubleshooting it I had 0v from the output of the stator when running. I ohm the old stator and it was open. I ordered a replacement for it. When I first installed the new one I was getting 30-35v but...

I bought a spare stator and installed it yesterday. It tested good according to the ohm reading. It gives me the same 51-52 AC volts and the previous one. Not exactly where to go from here. Will this kill a replacement rectifier with this voltage?

I can't say for sure as the box and paperwork has been discarded. The purchase was for a 003a but can't say for sure that's what I received/installed. This morning I purchased another as a spare that I'll installed and compare results. There is simple and easier fix to charge the battery but...

I'm using a Fluke 79 which says on the front it's a true RMS meter. I don't want to overthink this but I really don't want to set a match to $100 on hooking up a new rectifier to it either. I don't get any output on the current rectifier.

So there is 0.2 ohms in my test leads which puts this even closer to what the manual says is normal. I checked and it says to conduct this test with the leads disconnected (open). I just don't want to kill a new rectifier if this isn't normal incoming voltage. Looking at this I don't see how...