06 M1165 AC Issue

[Nethawk86]

TPS may need to be adjusted. There is a procedure in the 4 speed transmission handbook that involves taking voltage readings at different throttle positions. I dont have my book handy at the moment though.

Be careful adjusting the brake switch. There is half a hair sweet spot between the Normally Off brake light switch coming on and the adjacent Normally On torque converter clutch switch coming off. Minimal pedal travel doesnt help. You need to find the finest edge between your brake lights not coming on or your torque converter clutch never locking up. Horrible design.

Try to find an OEM (non chineseum) fuel pump. You dont need the one with the top vent fitting unless you want to recreate the Deep Water Fording system.
Make sure to watch some instructional videos to familiarize yourself with the cam to pump arm actuating rod handling techniques

Compressor and fans wont turn on if the system is empty of freon. Thats what the low pressure switch does. You can get a can of R134 and get some in the system so they can find any leaks.

Any wire marked with the number 7 is a ground. 7, 7A, 7B, 7C, etc. The main power for the system comes from the two circuit breakers that reside in a bracket located just off the floor between the front passengers right buttcheek and the rear passengers right foot.
Wires445B/661A and 720A/660A.
720A is the power feed to the rear evap units internal relay.

Print out that AC electrical diagram as its the golden key to understanding the AC electrical system

That filter gizmo is part of the fuel tank vent hose. The end you are holding used to attach to the fuel vent pipe on the snorkel. Non Deep Water Fording hmmwvs fuel tank vent ends with that filter. The filter keeps dirt and bugs out while allowing the tank to "breathe" so make sure you can blow through it. If not replace it. Its an old 70s ford fuel filter.

Any parts you need for the AC like new orings and the seal washers go here to get what you need. Bring yours to match up. They are at 27th ave and McDowell. They dont do the work but supply all the shops. They made my hoses to adapt my M1165 style fender mount system to my Red Dot Sanden compressor while I waited.

AAPAK - Auto a/C, Auto Parts, Auto Parts Store

Outfreaking standing! Yeah, mine is a deep forger, has mostly everything and what's not installed, came in a box including the valve and such. Will definitely do the can of r134 idea with dye to spot leaks. The front and back are seperate units correct? Each with their own ports to put freon in?

 

[DREDnot]

All one system. Just one high side port and one low side port up by the compressor

Got any pics of the whole truck?

 

[Nethawk86]

All one system. Just one high side port and one low side port up by the compressor

Got any pics of the whole truck?

Awesome! Im gonna try and find a replacement radiator before i put any freon in since i more than likely will take the disconnects off to just make it easier and not break anything, so might as well do the radiator now and not have to loose money on charging the system only to discharge it later. I have to pull off the tires and replace all 4 plus the spare here too, the hub rings just arrived, so ill take these down to Nunez after I pickup the new tires. So while its up, ill pull the radiator and see how bad the damage is and if its worth repairing/welding or just replace it with either a champion or a take off.

Yeah, heres a quick pic. Been dealing with this guy for over 6 months now trying to buy it. He had it on marketplace but the guy posted it and just kinda....ignored it and only checked in every random month or so. It was a real PITA. I thought it was a scam at first due to price and him deleting/"selling" then relisting it, but I managed to find out it was a real deal. Guy said he got fed up with tire kickers and kids who dont know about Hmmwv ownership and he didnt want to deal with that headache.

Then he had this in a Trust which trying to get the title transferred was a real nightmare from the MVD. After 3 days and 5 trips to different MVDs, they finally transferred it. However, unlike my old 1988 M998 where it was emissions exempt, allowed to be registered for 5+ years, and insured for $40 and cost $20 to register, they made this one a commercial vehicle which requires emissions, only allowed 1 year tags for $75, insurance commercial'd it also and costs $117. I was just happy to get it titled after it all that I said id deal with this all later. But now am wondering if this thing would even pass emissions given it was never meant to. I may get classic insurance to bypass the emissions worst case.

He had 3 at 1 point, and bought EVERYTHING for them including the hard tops/doors/slant back and turret......but he himself is think got overwhelmed and frustrated with not truly figuring out how to weld and make stuff work, so he sold everything off but kept this 2006 M1165. Guess I hammered him enough and caught him at the right time as he needed some bill money quickly. So did the deal last week.

Got it in Scottsdale, took Bell Rd home to stay off the freeway due to tires age and 10 minutes down the road, the front left tire completely disintegrated. So my 2 toddlers learned how to change their first tire....on a HMMWV lol. They had fun, and my 4 year old said when he first saw the truck, "dad, wheres the gun on top?". Hahahahahahah. Told him its college or the turret........college is junk anyway lol. Im a Gunsmith/Manufacturer FFL, so my kids have already seen all the cool "toys" that go on these lol.

Thats awesome youre in Avondale, im just up the road from Garden Lakes.

 

[DREDnot]

Nice rig!
Emissions is no big deal if it doesnt blow black smoke. Just an opacity test. Mine always passes
Your AC condenser units are in the rear fenders . Not on top of the radiator. That is your engine oil and trans fluid cooler over the radiator. You can usually tilt it up or swing it to the side to get at the radiator underneath. Id recommend the new champion radiator as most takeouts are not serviceable and were taken out for a reason.
Commercial registration and insurance was because of its higher GVW.
Love that fine example of the shredded auction truck tire.
You might have seen me driving mine around.

 

[Nethawk86]

Im sure I have! I used to work for AZFirearms as their gunsmith for years in old Avondale, and Avondale would always have the parades down the street. So AZF would bring their WW2 howitzers to it and to the opening of the golf season at the wigwam. So there were lots of Hmmwvs and military equipment driving down the roads. Did you ever do any of those parades?

 

[Nethawk86]

Nice rig!
Emissions is no big deal if it doesnt blow black smoke. Just an opacity test. Mine always passes
Your AC condenser units are in the rear fenders . Not on top of the radiator. That is your engine oil and trans fluid cooler over the radiator. You can usually tilt it up or swing it to the side to get at the radiator underneath. Id recommend the new champion radiator as most takeouts are not serviceable and were taken out for a reason.
Commercial registration and insurance was because of its higher GVW.
Love that fine example of the shredded auction truck tire.
You might have seen me driving mine around.

View attachment 956018

View attachment 956019

Isn't there more things you have to do when switching over to the champion though? Something to do with the mechanical fan and such you need to add?

 

[DREDnot]

No, never had it in any of the parades. Had it at the Military Vehicle Shows that the AMVCC puts on though.
Ive had it in a video and some static displays through affiliation with the club as well

AMVCC - Military Vehicle Show

I dont know the details about the Champion radiator install, but it shouldn't need any butchering done...I hope.
Yours being a turbo has the extended length radiator compared to the non-turbo trucks.

 

[Nethawk86]

No, never had it in any of the parades. Had it at the Military Vehicle Shows that the AMVCC puts on though.
Ive had it in a video and some static displays through affiliation with the club as well

AMVCC - Military Vehicle Show

I dont know the details about the Champion radiator install, but it shouldn't need any butchering done...I hope.
Yours being a turbo has the extended length radiator compared to the non-turbo trucks.

Hmmm, thought i read somewhere that they had to convert from 1 type of fan to another. Im currently draining and removing the radiator to see what's causing the leak. When i was underneath to open the drain valve, I noticed a line coming from the fuel tank, connected to a hose, going back to the tank. This hose is split and completely kinked....to where im surprised any fuels getting through it. What is this? Its practically pinched.

 

[DREDnot]

That hose loop (blue circle), If I Recall Correctly, is the supply and return fuel lines for the optional Arctic Heater. Just replace that loop of hose so it wont leak.

Circled in green are the infamous "Check Valves" that are famous for gumming up and sticking closed causing fuel starvation. While you are under there I recommend to remove those and replace with two new continuous sections of hose.

 

[Nethawk86]

That hose loop (blue circle), If I Recall Correctly, is the supply and return fuel lines for the optional Arctic Heater. Just replace that loop of hose so it wont leak.

Circled in green are the infamous "Check Valves" that are famous for gumming up and sticking closed causing fuel starvation. While you are under there I recommend to remove those and replace with two new continuous sections of hose.

View attachment 956242

Tore everything apart to replace radiator. Its got a split at the bottom. Ive got 2 available options, 1 is to replace with a champion, some saying bolts dont work as too short and need to replace all mounting bolts. Or the second option, I can get a OEM new in crate radiator for $100-200 more than the champion.

 

[Nethawk86]

Just to update, replaced the radiator with a champion and all radiator hoses and support buffers. Had to buy some all thread and cut it down on my lathe to match the length of the studs on the factory radiator. Put some jam nuts on the backside for added support, which also had to be cut down a bit to fit.

Replaced the mechanical lift pump and gaskets, used silicone on all sides so no more leaking issues at the plates in the future. But take note to not tighten bolts on pump until AFTER you install the threaded fuel line first......because if not, youll need to bend the metal of the line and then wiggle the lift pump to line everything up (which can cause it to fall out of alignment with the pump rod and cause severe issues down the line). This was nerve wracking as the gasket sealer was also drying.

Installed a in line radiator filter due to the sludge and crud in the lines I found. Thankfully when I was flushing the system amd running the filtered hose through it running on/off, it seemed lots of the crap was removed with the old radiator. Stuff had green coolant and the previous owner topped it off with yellow crap, but it always stayed really cool. Refilled with premixed Zerex G05 which said Detroit engines, but was almost clear. It now goes into high side green and fan kicks on, which didnt before, but isn't overheating it seems. Will need to check with a laser temp to see what it actually gets to. Drove it hard with heat fan on high to work out any air.

While installing the coolant filter (was not easy on an 1165 at all!!), I removed the check valves in the fuel lines and replaced the kinked return line with a much longer one so it doesnt make such an aggressive angle .

During all this, I found a disconnected air intake sensor on the right hand bank manifold. Cannot find the connector for it at all digging around. No idea why it was disconnected, but then again, someone also disconnected the TPS connector.....no idea why. Still shifts wonky.....but not a heavy slam anymore, just a random shift high or low rpm shift here/there.

Installed new flow control valve also. Went through and epoxy repaired the AC dash vent cracks at all rivets. Then silicone caulked around the window vent metal as well as replaced all the neoprene stripping on it. So now its sealed and flows better. Replaced all the dried hood bumper rubbers, airlift pads and such also.

My current issues are, speedometer sputtering and temp gauge requiring tapping to actually move accurately. Im going to replace the temp gauge with a new one and then check the speedometer cable for being bent or the speedometer itself. Gonna do an oil change also here just for S&G/peace of mind. I topped off the power steering and transmission fluids with max life dex VI that got lost when removing the cooler lines to replace the radiator.

Need to take this in and have someone charge the AC also. But first, next step is pulling these tires off 1 by 1 and splitting the rims then swapping over the runflats/beadlocks and installing the new tires. I grabbed centramatic balancers ill be tossing on also.

Did some digging on the history of this truck and found it was a student truck from the Marines COMM school out at 29 palms. Explains all the wonderful 29 sticks sand everywhere inside the turbo air boot....thankfully none of the camel spiders decided to hitch a ride on this thing like they did in my sea bag when there during Op Mohave Viper. So this was a comms rig to teach Marines how to maintain their HMMWV with comm equipment. Kinda connecting the dots as to why shit was unplugged for no reason and left lol.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

The sensor isn’t used on that truck, you have a civilian GM intake manifold, later GEP units did away with that hole for the hmmwv.
leave it as a plug or remove and use a brass plug.

 

[Nethawk86]

I think im gonna reinstall the 2 fuel check valves by the fuel tank. Since I removed them, it takes 3-4 seconds to actually turn over and start the engine whereas before it'd fire right up. Thinking I lost prime removing them. Dont want to crank that long every time and wear out the new mechanical pump.

 

[Nethawk86]

Why would my dash bright setting not work? Theres the dim and then bright, both are the same and dont get any brighter.

 

[Coug]

Why would my dash bright setting not work? Theres the dim and then bright, both are the same and dont get any brighter.

If the dash bulbs have been replaced with LED then they will only be one brightness.
The dimmer applies different voltages, so an incandescent bulb will be dim/bright, but LED have voltage drivers in them that take any input voltage and only output a single brightness.