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HELP - Runaway starter wont stop running.

dc_cucv

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Woodbridge, VA
Ok, so here is the back story:

I recently moved out to rural Virginia and it gets way colder out here than it did in the NoVA suburbs where I moved from. One night, it was something like 4 degrees with the windchill and I went to start my M1009 and it would crank but not turn over. Waited a while and tried several times to no avail. Eventually, I got the slowwww turning and after that the batteries were dead.

So I went and got my battery charger and charged up the batteries and tried again. Still no luck - truck would turn slow but would not crank. Tried a third time, but this time I accidentally left the charger on the front battery and when I went to crank it, it cranked but did not turn over and some of the battery wires started smoking as I saw white smoke coming from under the hood.
I went and disconnected the charger, and saw the smoke stopped, so I tried to turn the truck over and it kept turning over when I turned the key OFF and even when I removed the key.

I ran to the batteries and got them disconnected within 20 seconds, but saw that the white smoke and smelled of burnt pubic hair. So I had my OH shit moment and realized that the starter was likely fried.

Here is all I replaced, some of the items I did just because it was time:

- Replaced battery cable from passenger side terminal block to positive rear battery terminal - original cable looks like it had started to melt.
- Replaced battery harness that ends with blue cable that goes to the 12v block next to the glow plug solenoid on the drivers side firewall.
- Replaced glow plug solenoid and also replaced the red wire going from the solenoid to the 12v block.
- Replaced glow plugs (was time to do it)
- Replaced the starter
- Replaced the ignition switch (the one on the top of the steering column)
- Replaced starter relay (I already had done the Doghead starter mod, so replaced it with a new one to be safe)
- Replaced both batteries

Today, I went to go plug in the batteries, the second I connected the ground to the rear battery, the truck started to crank on it's own, with no key in the ignition. Immediately disconnected the cables and the feeling of defeat slapped me in the face.

I started looking at all the cables near the batteries and terminal block and noticed there is a blue thicker cable that's mated with an orange cable that connect to the positive block. The blue cable was split open and the wire very corroded with green crap, so that kind of told me it had been exposed for some time. I'm planning on splicing the bad part and reconnecting it. Picture attached.

Anyone have any thoughts on where I should look? Where did I go wrong? Did I miss replacing something? I checked the fuses in the fuse box and all are ok.

Any help is appreciated.
 

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WWRD99

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So that blue wire going to a red one is a fusible link. It should have black cylinder on it with a number. It probably has a 12 on it or a 10. You need to replace those and not repair them with the same size fusible link that is burned. That could go to the passenger alternator but there's a few that it could be. The constant crank should be easy to find. First is this still a 24 volt system? I'd start with the doghead thing. Disconnect the power wire going to the starter. That should stop it's constant running but aid in finding what's shorted giving the relay power all the time. I'm assuming the relay is engaging with the batteries being hooked up. Once hooked up start unplugging the few connectors that feed that relay. I'd start with the switch on top of the steering column. You may have not adjusted it right and it's engaging the start relay or it's the wrong one and it's backwards. Get new batteries and don't try to start it with a low charge. Amps increase with low volts and turns a 24 volt system into a web of burnt wires. A 24 volt trickle is best.

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dc_cucv

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yes, it's an unmolested original 24V system.

also, the batteries I have are brand new - two 31 series.

And the switch was an exact replacement - took the old one with me to Napa and did a comparison to make sure. I was very careful in putting everything back the way it came out - dropped the column, unscrewed the 2 screws holding it on and reversed to install. I looked at all the wires and made sure everything was seated correctly.

So you're saying disconnect the starter 4g feed from the terminal block and go from there?
 

WWRD99

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yes, it's an unmolested original 24V system.

also, the batteries I have are brand new - two 31 series.

And the switch was an exact replacement - took the old one with me to Napa and did a comparison to make sure. I was very careful in putting everything back the way it came out - dropped the column, unscrewed the 2 screws holding it on and reversed to install. I looked at all the wires and made sure everything was seated correctly.

So you're saying disconnect the starter 4g feed from the terminal block and go from there?
No unhook the doghead thing the wire that goes to the starter solenoid. With a new starter I am assuming it is a good starter. If it does run with that wire not hooked to the relay then you have a problem at the solenoid. Like the little wire is touching the big wire on the solenoid. It happens.

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dc_cucv

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Woodbridge, VA
should i disconnect the purple 24V switched or red 24V supply?
I assume the red supply?


s
No unhook the doghead thing the wire that goes to the starter solenoid. With a new starter I am assuming it is a good starter. If it does run with that wire not hooked to the relay then you have a problem at the solenoid. Like the little wire is touching the big wire on the solenoid. It happens.

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dc_cucv

Active member
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Location
Woodbridge, VA
No unhook the doghead thing the wire that goes to the starter solenoid. With a new starter I am assuming it is a good starter. If it does run with that wire not hooked to the relay then you have a problem at the solenoid. Like the little wire is touching the big wire on the solenoid. It happens.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

also going to crawl under with my phone and take a picture of the starter to make sure it's not touching....hope not.

but the starter did this before I replaced it. here is a pic of the old starter before i removed it and replaced with a new one (the old one had a burnt odor to it)
 

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WWRD99

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York Pa
should i disconnect the purple 24V switched or red 24V supply?
I assume the red supply?


s
No purple switched. You want to isolate the starter. That red 24 volt one could be getting power or is getting power. You'll be able to test up to the column or down to the starter.

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WWRD99

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York Pa
also going to crawl under with my phone and take a picture of the starter to make sure it's not touching....hope not.

but the starter did this before I replaced it. here is a pic of the old starter before i removed it and replaced with a new one (the old one had a burnt odor to it)
Did you cut the alignment tangs off the main power wire?

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WWRD99

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nothing is touching on the starter....

and the fusible link on the blue frayed wire has a 12 on it.
Yup so you need 12 fusible link. Once you unhook the purple wire and see if the batteries hooked up engage the starter or not then go from there.

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dc_cucv

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Location
Woodbridge, VA
Yup so you need 12 fusible link. Once you unhook the purple wire and see if the batteries hooked up engage the starter or not then go from there.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
so when replacing the fusible links, are these inline fuse holders with the correct amp fuse an acceptable solution?
 

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dc_cucv

Active member
129
131
43
Location
Woodbridge, VA
Yup so you need 12 fusible link. Once you unhook the purple wire and see if the batteries hooked up engage the starter or not then go from there.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

Ok. disconnected purple wire from the starter relay, connected batteries and it started cranking when i connected the ground to the battery....

Issue persists....
 

WWRD99

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Ok. disconnected purple wire from the starter relay, connected batteries and it started cranking when i connected the ground to the battery....

Issue persists....
So now you know it's at the starter. Pretty simple. Little wire is touching the big wire at the starter. Ohm or voltage drop it. Or unhook the little wire.

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