Just bought a M1097A2 (Modification Ideas)

[Reinere]

As the title said, I just got a 1097A2 former shelter carrier (Still has the S250 frame if anyone is interested in that) with 9700 on the odo (The wear and tear parts like steering wheel, parking brake and pedals look pretty good, and it's got HHC markings so I think thats actual mileage).

A little background. I've worked as bounty hunter professionally for 15 years. I usually have run Ex-police Suv's, and cars (Tahoe's, Explorers, Crown Vic's) for most of my work as I put on a ton of highway miles. I'm looking to utilize this rig to be geared towards the more "extreme" side of my work (I've driven vehicles through a few front doors, driveway gates, other barricades, and once through someone's living room.) Before this I was a dual MOS 52D/63B in the army so I know my way around maintaining a HMMWV, but I'm hoping to probe the community for suggestions or must do modifications for a better quality of life for myself, other Agents, and an occasional prisoner.

Here's what's already on the punchlist and what I'm curios about.

• Hard-top conversion (OEM fiberglass roof + 4 hard doors, sourcing NSNs no aftermarket doors etc.)
• 4-seat kit (front buckets + rear bucket and rear bench)
• Snow plow kit (military MHE style, still hunting surplus)
• High-output alternator + dual batteries for winch/lights
• mechanical ip 88+ GM trucks for cruise control (Needs input from VSS, Tach Signal, Brake and Ground, still prototyping this)

Asking the hive mind

1. Suspension – Stock geared springs feel wallowy at 60+ on washboard. heavier shocks?
2. Tires – 37×12.50R16.5 Goodyear MVT take-offs are shot. Best all-terrain that hooks in snow/mud and survives 75 mph highway? Civvy Rims and TIres?(No 40s—weight & plate rules.)
3. Brakes – Hydroboost upgrade worth it, or just fresh calipers/pads/rotors?
4. Recovery – Front PTO winch or bumper-mounted 12k electric? Or should I go for the 24v 15k MileMarker?
5. Lighting – Rigid or Truck-Lite LED headlights + pillar-mounted 20 in light bar for night ops. Any clean plug-and-play harness?
6. Cold-start reliability – Block heater + grid heater relay bypass? Glow-plug delete with intake heater?
7. Armor-lite – ¼ in ballistic glass windshield insert or just poly wind wings for winter?
8. Re-Gearing the front and rear diff for better on road performance and possible MPG gains?

 

[Mogman]

As the title said, I just got a 1097A2 former shelter carrier (Still has the S250 frame if anyone is interested in that) with 9700 on the odo (The wear and tear parts like steering wheel, parking brake and pedals look pretty good, and it's got HHC markings so I think thats actual mileage).

A little background. I've worked as bounty hunter professionally for 15 years. I usually have run Ex-police Suv's, and cars (Tahoe's, Explorers, Crown Vic's) for most of my work as I put on a ton of highway miles. I'm looking to utilize this rig to be geared towards the more "extreme" side of my work (I've driven vehicles through a few front doors, driveway gates, other barricades, and once through someone's living room.) Before this I was a dual MOS 52D/63B in the army so I know my way around maintaining a HMMWV, but I'm hoping to probe the community for suggestions or must do modifications for a better quality of life for myself, other Agents, and an occasional prisoner.

Here's what's already on the punchlist and what I'm curios about.

• Hard-top conversion (OEM fiberglass roof + 4 hard doors, sourcing NSNs no aftermarket doors etc.)
• 4-seat kit (front buckets + rear bucket and rear bench)
• Snow plow kit (military MHE style, still hunting surplus)
• High-output alternator + dual batteries for winch/lights
• mechanical ip 88+ GM trucks for cruise control (Needs input from VSS, Tach Signal, Brake and Ground, still prototyping this)

Asking the hive mind

1. Suspension – Stock geared springs feel wallowy at 60+ on washboard. heavier shocks?
2. Tires – 37×12.50R16.5 Goodyear MVT take-offs are shot. Best all-terrain that hooks in snow/mud and survives 75 mph highway? Civvy Rims and TIres?(No 40s—weight & plate rules.)
3. Brakes – Hydroboost upgrade worth it, or just fresh calipers/pads/rotors?
4. Recovery – Front PTO winch or bumper-mounted 12k electric? Or should I go for the 24v 15k MileMarker?
5. Lighting – Rigid or Truck-Lite LED headlights + pillar-mounted 20 in light bar for night ops. Any clean plug-and-play harness?
6. Cold-start reliability – Block heater + grid heater relay bypass? Glow-plug delete with intake heater?
7. Armor-lite – ¼ in ballistic glass windshield insert or just poly wind wings for winter?
8. Re-Gearing the front and rear diff for better on road performance and possible MPG gains?

Your truck has 2.73 diffs, the only option available would be the 2.56 diffs off of an A1 or Basic truck.
I would suggest a repower if you want to cruise 75 on anything other than a flat road with a tail wind.
IMHO there would be better options than a vehicle with a composite hood and aluminum body if you want top get "more extreme" than driving through buildings.

 

[Reinere]

Your truck has 2.73 diffs, the only option available would be the 2.56 diffs off of an A1 or Basic truck.
I would suggest a repower if you want to cruise 75 on anything other than a flat road with a tail wind.
IMHO there would be better options than a vehicle with a composite hood and aluminum body if you want top get "more extreme" than driving through buildings.

I figured a repower would most likely be in the cards, I'd like to avoid this as long as possible.

Re-gearing the truck is not something I know much about, I know the AMC diffs are difficult to source a ring and pinion for to begin with.

As far as collision goes i think it performs better than modern vehicles due to its lack of collapsible steering columns, airbags, or programmed crumple zones, which in civilian vehicles dissipate energy but can compromise the vehicle's ability to continue operating post-impact. Most impacts are at 20mpg or lower (boxing vehicles, pushing gates, etc). After a few of those the frames on most civ/police vehicles start to fail at the crumple zones (ask me how I know) I plan on adding a custom flat bumper to the front of the truck and reinforcing/adding rigidity to the front of the frame itself. The body i could care less. That's what metal cover panels are for.

 

[Mogman]

I figured a repower would most likely be in the cards, I'd like to avoid this as long as possible.

Re-gearing the truck is not something I know much about, I know the AMC diffs are difficult to source a ring and pinion for to begin with.

As far as collision goes i think it performs better than modern vehicles due to its lack of collapsible steering columns, airbags, or programmed crumple zones, which in civilian vehicles dissipate energy but can compromise the vehicle's ability to continue operating post-impact. Most impacts are at 20mpg or lower (boxing vehicles, pushing gates, etc). After a few of those the frames on most civ/police vehicles start to fail at the crumple zones (ask me how I know) I plan on adding a custom flat bumper to the front of the truck and reinforcing/adding rigidity to the front of the frame itself. The body i could care less. That's what metal cover panels are for.

The lowest ratio gear set that I have found for the AMC-20 is the 2.56 set used in the Basic and A1 HMMWVs.
As far as mileage, I went from 10MPG @ 60 MPH to almost 13 MPG @ 75 MPH with the Duramax/Allison conversion.

 

[FlameRed]

Was walking around and saw one of these parked on the street of da' hood. Maybe better suited for your profession?

I wondered if they left the keys in it...

 

[Reinere]

Was walking around and saw one of these parked on the street of da' hood. Maybe better suited for your profession?

I wondered if they left the keys in it...

Wait, you have to start this...with a key?!

I think I threw up im my mouth a little.

 

[montaillou]

My 1097 came with a 3 speed so I swapped in a 4 speed with overdrive so I can drive highway speeds.
Might consider brush guard - there are several different versions available.
If you plan on owning it long, consider going with a slightly different wheel/tire combo: 37x12.50R17 cost about half what the military tires go for, and there's a lot more choice and availability. I have Yokohama Geolandar MT with Method wheels.
Mile Marker winch is more useable than an electric winch if you use one much because of the duty cycle. However, I have a Mile Marker on the back and an electric on the front.
Maybe consider A/C.
So, original hard top was steel with a hole cut for the gun ring & slant back, I believe. Unless you have the McClarin Composites helmet (there's also another manufacturer with a slightly different look).

If budget is an issue, buying wrecked humvee at an auction can be a great way to get parts. I bought a humvee for parts, sold some and basically broke even on the deal.

 

[Reinere]

My 1097 came with a 3 speed so I swapped in a 4 speed with overdrive so I can drive highway speeds.
Might consider brush guard - there are several different versions available.
If you plan on owning it long, consider going with a slightly different wheel/tire combo: 37x12.50R17 cost about half what the military tires go for, and there's a lot more choice and availability. I have Yokohama Geolandar MT with Method wheels.
Mile Marker winch is more useable than an electric winch if you use one much because of the duty cycle. However, I have a Mile Marker on the back and an electric on the front.
Maybe consider A/C.
So, original hard top was steel with a hole cut for the gun ring & slant back, I believe. Unless you have the McClarin Composites helmet (there's also another manufacturer with a slightly different look).

If budget is an issue, buying wrecked humvee at an auction can be a great way to get parts. I bought a humvee for parts, sold some and basically broke even on the deal.

It's an A2 truck so 4 speed is already there, and there is a brush guard its the tubular lightweight version.

I do have a set of 20" rims that would match the bolt pattern (i need to verify the backpacking on these, buried in my shop) that might work for aftermarket/less aggressive tires. I plan to keep the originals on hand in indoor storage if I go that route, but undecided. I know the run flats sap a ton of rotational energy.

The feedback on winch setups, I appreciate that. I wouldn't be using it often but when it would be used it would be for pretty extreme duty. So failure, thermal overheating, and weak power are a nonstarter. Think northern minnesota logging roads and pissed off sketchy locals. Not a great place to get stuck.

I had given thought to a helmet top, is the height clearance much different than a hardtop roof?

As far as a wrecked donor, thats a really good idea. Im not sure what to budget for one. I'd assume under 3-4k for a junker.

 

[montaillou]

Pic to show height of helmet top. The other helmet top out there is a little lower.

Wrecked humvees go for $2k or so on govplanet, depending on condition. Expect destroyed front or rear, wheels that are bent and no longer move, etc. Loose parts that may or may not belong to the vehicle could be piled inside - I ended up with a part that's not even from a humvee. The one that I got had a destroyed front end but the transmission was fine, most of the instrument cluster was gone/pieces but the shifter and harness were good and a rear wheel was bent at an angle. I got it for $1500, just under $2k after fees/taxes and $2k to get it trailered to me, then $200 for a forklift to lift it off the trailer - the yard where you pick it up will put it on a trailer no charge.

If you can, take your time shopping. Most winches get stripped off, but mine came with a Mile Marker (this is pretty rare) on the rear, condition unknown but it worked fine. It also came with a slant back, but no hard top. I sold the slant back for $4k, almost covering all my expenses.

Keep in mind some of these will have to be lifted to a flatbed so transport is a little more expensive and/or difficult.


Best pic I have showing the condition of the M1114.

Those helmets cost about $4k on the used market and sometimes show up on auction humvees.

 

[Mogman]

It's an A2 truck so 4 speed is already there, and there is a brush guard its the tubular lightweight version.

I do have a set of 20" rims that would match the bolt pattern (i need to verify the backpacking on these, buried in my shop) that might work for aftermarket/less aggressive tires. I plan to keep the originals on hand in indoor storage if I go that route, but undecided. I know the run flats sap a ton of rotational energy.

The feedback on winch setups, I appreciate that. I wouldn't be using it often but when it would be used it would be for pretty extreme duty. So failure, thermal overheating, and weak power are a nonstarter. Think northern minnesota logging roads and pissed off sketchy locals. Not a great place to get stuck.

I had given thought to a helmet top, is the height clearance much different than a hardtop roof?

As far as a wrecked donor, thats a really good idea. Im not sure what to budget for one. I'd assume under 3-4k for a junker.

Here is the low profile helmet top, these are rather scarce compared to the taller one, I was lucky to pick this one up.

 

[Reinere]

Here is the low profile helmet top, these are rather scarce compared to the taller one, I was lucky to pick this one up.View attachment 957358View attachment 957359

Yeah I'd definitely have to get my hands on the lower top. I'll have to start scouring. Looks super slick. First time seeing one. Never seen that version when I was in the army.