M1009 wiring questions

[Dave_1972]

Sorry to bug you guys with this but I am working on getting a M1009 (1984 i think) back on the road (to be my boys high school rig) after it was in a flood and sat for a long time. We've swapped in a running 6.2 from a donor truck and done a ton of other stuff and I am at the point where i want to get the wiring sorted out. I have a second donor m1009 (also caught in that flood). And I am struggling on how to wire this thing - specifically I am just trying to sort out how it should be wired at the distribution block. I plan on just running it as originally designed for now. My issue is that the wiring diagram is a bit confusing and neither m1009 appears to have been wired like the diagram when I got them.

So a couple of questions - does it matter if you move from one lug on the distribution block to another? It looks like the trucks both have the top lug 3 wiring swapped with lug2 (maybe to make it easier to fit everything on there). Also looking at the diagram f-7 glow plug circuits I see "to battery to top lug 2". That seems odd? And I see no mention of how that is run at the battery (which battery - which post - what size wire). Oh, and both trucks had the glow plug resistor disconnected on the right side.

Also I have an unaccounted for wire that is red-into-orange (fusible like I assume) that i believe went to the block but now i'm confused on where that goes.

Can anyone fill me in on the basics of what I need at the blocks? Then i'll get that right and start asking follow up questions from there.

Here is a breakdown of what i see in the diagrams at the blocks:

************************************************************
Connections to Distribution blocks.

top 1-5 (left to right)
bottom 1-3 (left to right)


*****F-1 starting circuits:
Firewall (red) (with fusible link) to top lug 1.
Batt2 positive (red) to top lug 3.
Starter (red) to top lug 3.

Batt1 negative (black) to bottom lug 1.

*****F-3 engine compartment ignition circuits:

"To battery" (red) to top lug 3.

Frame ground (black) to bottom lug 1.

*****F-7 glow plug circuits:

"To battery" (red) to top lug 2.
Resistor (red-then-blue) to top lug 3.

"To battery" (black) to bottom lug 1.
Firewall (black) to bottom lug 2.

*****F-9 Charging circuit:

Batt2 positive (red) to top lug 3.
Slave receptacle (red) to top lug 5.
Generator2 (red-then-orange) to top lug 2.
Generator2 (red-then-blue) to top lug 2.

Suppressor top lug 3 to bottom lug 1.

Batt1 negative (black) to bottom lug 1.
Slave receptacle (black) to bottom lug 3.

*****F-11 diagnostic circuits:

Firewall (red) (with fusible link) to top lug 3.

Firewall (black) to bottom lug 1.

 

[SouthernSteel]

Are you wanting to go back to 24/12 because it sounds like those two k5 m1009s have already been 12 volt converted completely already if you need a picture i have an 84 that's still stock i will try to grab a few pics tomorrow in daylight for you

 

[deank]

Pictures with annotations will be very helpful in trying to figure out what you have.

 

[Dave_1972]

Pictures with annotations will be very helpful in trying to figure out what you have.

I'll try to get a couple of picture loaded but I'm not certain how helpful they will be. We had the entire engine bay stripped out while the engine replacement was happening. And when I got the truck much of the wiring was already disconnected.

 

[Barrman]

Pictures of what you have no matter how complete will be better than just words. I spent a long time reading your post and can’t get a mental image of what you have or don’t have.

This process will take a while with lots of back and forth probably.

 

[Dave_1972]

Are you wanting to go back to 24/12 because it sounds like those two k5 m1009s have already been 12 volt converted completely already if you need a picture i have an 84 that's still stock i will try to grab a few pics tomorrow in daylight for you

Giving this some thought... the donor 6.2 came from a civilian truck which had a good starter. I think what I should do here is swap that starter back on and go though the roscommon conversion wiring diagrams as my starting point. That also let's me use the alternator from the donor. I'll check back in with you guys after I have the basics of that in place.

 

[SouthernSteel]

I understand,I have an m1009 i bought with out a motor that may end up getting the Civiy treatment to a degree i have a donor 85 c10 silverado with a 6.2 diesel either way let us know what you find and decide i will still try to grab photos this week after work if i can for you of the 24/12 original military charging and starting system if you choose to go that route i have two complete cucvs that are drivable my m1008 17 years owned and my m1009 about 8 years alot of experience with them both have 12/24 charging and starting and 24 volt gear reduction starters along with updated push button GP standalone harnesses and AC60 g Glow plugs doghead relay conversion and spin on fuel filters :]

 

[Dave_1972]

Okay - found a little time to get back on this today and working through the Roscommon 12v conversion PDF for my wiring. Starting to get some progress - I got to where it talks about bypassing the glow plug resistors by going from the positive terminal block to the glow plug relay. Which is when I realized both my m1009 I am working on and the donor m1009 are missing the glow plug relay. I went ahead and purchased the NAPA ST85 solenoid to replace the missing relay and now I am confused about what I see in the Roscommon PDF vs. the wiring diagrams posted in that thread. I am following the Roscommon M1008/M1009 Conversion to 12-Volt system section instructions and I am at this section:

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5. An 8 gauge wire connects the positive (+) terminal junction block to the resistors. Another 8 gauge wire connects the resistors to the glow plug relay. Disconnect these from the resistors. Remove the wire that runs from the resistors to the glow plug relay. Extend the wire that runs from the positive (+) terminal junction block to the resistors so that it is long enough to reach the glow plug relay (insulate the splice)

(Photo 3). Caution: A new wire may be used to replace the existing wire but the existing wire has a fusible link at the end for short circuit protection. If a new wire is installed, short circuit protection should be installed as close as possible to the end connected to the positive (+) terminal junction block.
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When I look at the diagram "F-7Glow Plug Circuits". I don't see that wire shown? I see a wire that goes from the positive terminal block to the Engine wiring harness block and then onto the relay - is that it?

That diagram also has a "to batt" coming off post two in the positive terminal block - I'm assuming that just goes to the rear battery positive post? That seems redundant as I already have the batteries run to the positive terminal block at post 3 as per the "F-1 Starting Circuits" diagram indicates.

Alos, does anyone using the ST85 have a photo of the wiring at the solenoid? Or maybe it is wired just like the relay would be?

-any help is apreciated.

 

[Dave_1972]

Well two steps forward and three steps back. Situation normal. I managed to work through the 24v to 12v roscommon conversion. Installed the ST85 solenoid in place of a glow plug relay, figured out the starter relay was missing and worked through the doghead relay conversion. Still chasing some wiring issues (grounds I suspect) but I can crank the engine now and manually run the glow plugs (bad module maybe). So I thought I would do a short test run of the engine at this point to include finding out if first and reverse feel like they work in the transmission.

Previously we discovered serious rust in the fuel system and installed a civilian 31 gallon tank, with filler neck, sending unit, all new rubber lines, and fuel lift pump. I didn't replace the hard lines as I blew them out with compressed air and thought we were okay on that. I tried cranking with the fuel filter bleeder screw backed off, with the glow plugs out, and with the forward most injectors disconnected and couldn't get a drop of fuel. (fresh 9 gallons in the tank). So I tried blowing compressed air up the return line at the hard line near the lift pump. Used an in-line regulator with it regulated down to around 4-5 psi. It took longer than I expected and just as I was about to give up i finally began to see fuel at the bleeder. Sadly one of boys also saw fuel under the truck. We popped a hard line.

One thing that struck me as odd was that I also got fuel running out of the return line. I'm thinking (even though we previously blew out the line) the line plugged somewhere - maybe the fitting where the winterization kit would go (mine is just a plug in that block). Resulting in me putting significantly more pressure in the tank than I intended.

So now I am going to do what I should have done and replace the last part of the fuel system - the hard lines. I'm not restoring the truck so I am thinking I will go nickel copper tubing. Am I right in thinking that is 3/8 feed line and 5/16 return line? Anyone else replace their lines this way?