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I've got a Fumoto on my '20 6.7 Powerstroke, nice unit.
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MEP 803A won’t start - high temp warning light
- Thread starter pclausen
- Start date
Had one on my '02 Duramax but have not added one yet to my '24 Duramax. Heck, I've yet to do my 1st oil change. It only has 8,700 miles on it. Did have the dealer do the 1st complimentary oil change at around 5k miles. That will hopefully be the first and last time it goes to the dealer since I always do all maintenance myself on my vehicles. I'll be sure to get one before the first oil change I do myself.
Got the old busted tail lights off the trailer:
The thin brackets that bolt to the frame were very bent on both sides.
After getting both on each side off (involved cutting off rusted bolts), I had to needle scale them to get the old paint off. Anyway, here are the old and new tail lights along with the cleaned up and straightened brackets:
The new tail lights are way better quality than what I was expecting:
So from top to bottom, I think this is what they are:
Running lights
Turn/Brake
"Stealth" lights (not sure if those do Turn/Brake function)
Reverse
I popped the cover on the front of the frame where the 8 pin cable goes:
So one wire is unused, and one goes to ground, which leaves 6 wires for the tail lights. So by method of elimination, that probably means they do these functions:
Right turn/Brake
Left turn/Brake
Running lights
Reverse lights
"Stealth" Right turn/Brake
"Stealth" Left turn/Brake
I guess I'll wire the "Stealth" bulbs in parallel with the regular turn/break bulbs. Would be kind of neat that add a switch to change from regular turn/break lights to "stealth" mode.
Got the old busted tail lights off the trailer:
The thin brackets that bolt to the frame were very bent on both sides.
After getting both on each side off (involved cutting off rusted bolts), I had to needle scale them to get the old paint off. Anyway, here are the old and new tail lights along with the cleaned up and straightened brackets:
The new tail lights are way better quality than what I was expecting:
So from top to bottom, I think this is what they are:
Running lights
Turn/Brake
"Stealth" lights (not sure if those do Turn/Brake function)
Reverse
I popped the cover on the front of the frame where the 8 pin cable goes:
So one wire is unused, and one goes to ground, which leaves 6 wires for the tail lights. So by method of elimination, that probably means they do these functions:
Right turn/Brake
Left turn/Brake
Running lights
Reverse lights
"Stealth" Right turn/Brake
"Stealth" Left turn/Brake
I guess I'll wire the "Stealth" bulbs in parallel with the regular turn/break bulbs. Would be kind of neat that add a switch to change from regular turn/break lights to "stealth" mode.
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I decided to deploy the set today while I continue work on the trailer and aux fuel tank. Set getting ready to be deployed:
Dropped off at site:
Connected to inverter:
Wired up on both ends:
Set limit to 10Kw and max batt charge to 50A:
Configured it to start at 90% SOC instead of the default of 10% since I'd like to see it kick in before it gets too late. I did confirm the 2-wire start does start the set by shorting the 2 wires together at the inverter (before I connected them to the inverter terminals).
Unfortunately I don't have Internet/WIFI yet at the site, so I won't be able to monitor anything remotely yet. I did run fiber the 0.5 miles or so between the house and remote site, but I'm not ready to install the rest of the needed infrastructure and splice it just yet.
As an interim solution, I'm going to try the new UniFi Device Bridge Pro Sector at the house and a Device Bridge Pro at the site. Its good for up 5km, but I don't have a true line of sight. Here's me looking up at the house from the remote site:
Long term, I'll be using the Bridge Pro Sector to shoot signals to misc. cameras I plan to deploy, but I'm hoping to at least get a little bit of signal until the fiber gets deployed with this solution.
Dropped off at site:
Connected to inverter:
Wired up on both ends:
Set limit to 10Kw and max batt charge to 50A:
Configured it to start at 90% SOC instead of the default of 10% since I'd like to see it kick in before it gets too late. I did confirm the 2-wire start does start the set by shorting the 2 wires together at the inverter (before I connected them to the inverter terminals).
Unfortunately I don't have Internet/WIFI yet at the site, so I won't be able to monitor anything remotely yet. I did run fiber the 0.5 miles or so between the house and remote site, but I'm not ready to install the rest of the needed infrastructure and splice it just yet.
As an interim solution, I'm going to try the new UniFi Device Bridge Pro Sector at the house and a Device Bridge Pro at the site. Its good for up 5km, but I don't have a true line of sight. Here's me looking up at the house from the remote site:
Long term, I'll be using the Bridge Pro Sector to shoot signals to misc. cameras I plan to deploy, but I'm hoping to at least get a little bit of signal until the fiber gets deployed with this solution.
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I got the inverter settings dialed in pretty well for the 803a. At first it would not take the power from the set:
Turns out the voltage at 245.1 Volt was too high. Once I dropped it to 240, it accepted it:
Today is overcast so the solar panels were not producing much. Pulling just under 10kW from the generator.
Once the unit heater shut off, all the power went to the batteries:
I did install a little digital power meter on the set by the power outlet:
They claim it to be accurate within 1%, but there's definitely a variance to what I see on the inverter, but at least some of the voltage drop is from the 35' or so of 8 gauge wire. I would have expected to frequency to be spot on but its not.
Analog panel is definitely off from what the digital meter shows, especially the power output meter:
But overall, very pleased with everything. I have the inverter kick off the generator at 20% SOC, and shut back off at 98%. I choose 98% since, when the unit heater is running, it never quite gets to 100%.
Turns out the voltage at 245.1 Volt was too high. Once I dropped it to 240, it accepted it:
Today is overcast so the solar panels were not producing much. Pulling just under 10kW from the generator.
Once the unit heater shut off, all the power went to the batteries:
I did install a little digital power meter on the set by the power outlet:
They claim it to be accurate within 1%, but there's definitely a variance to what I see on the inverter, but at least some of the voltage drop is from the 35' or so of 8 gauge wire. I would have expected to frequency to be spot on but its not.
Analog panel is definitely off from what the digital meter shows, especially the power output meter:
But overall, very pleased with everything. I have the inverter kick off the generator at 20% SOC, and shut back off at 98%. I choose 98% since, when the unit heater is running, it never quite gets to 100%.
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Got the tail light brackets primed:
I took a look at the trailer and while its overall in good shape, there are some places where the paint has peeled off and a pretty decent amount of rust has developed. Not enough to compromise the frame, but I'll get those spots cleaned up, primed and re-painted.
The springs also have some surface rust, as do the break lines:
I'll get those addressed as well while I got the set dismounted.
I took a look at the trailer and while its overall in good shape, there are some places where the paint has peeled off and a pretty decent amount of rust has developed. Not enough to compromise the frame, but I'll get those spots cleaned up, primed and re-painted.
The springs also have some surface rust, as do the break lines:
I'll get those addressed as well while I got the set dismounted.
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I've been working on fixing up the trailer and have another thread going on that over here.
But I ran into a snag on the aux fuel tank. Turns out the larger bungs are all 5/8-14 NPT which are non standard, so the 3/4-14 Fumoto valve and breather are both too large. I returned them and ordered 1/2-14 ones of both instead, but I'm having a hard time locating reducer inserts.
Ideally, I'd want a 5/8 to 1/2 version of this:
But I having a very hard time locating those. Any ideas?
But I ran into a snag on the aux fuel tank. Turns out the larger bungs are all 5/8-14 NPT which are non standard, so the 3/4-14 Fumoto valve and breather are both too large. I returned them and ordered 1/2-14 ones of both instead, but I'm having a hard time locating reducer inserts.
Ideally, I'd want a 5/8 to 1/2 version of this:
But I having a very hard time locating those. Any ideas?
Toolslinger
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I've never run across 5/8 NPT. I don't think that's what you really need.
I believe there's 5/8 pipe size in BSPT. You might try looking along those lines.
Also there are some straight thread fittings around that dimension, but they're all finer pitch than 14.
I believe there's 5/8 pipe size in BSPT. You might try looking along those lines.
Also there are some straight thread fittings around that dimension, but they're all finer pitch than 14.
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Have you asked the manufacturer of the tank for the thread specs?
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Or possibly look over the JIC chart I provided earlier... perhaps the threading is consistent in this to the JIC hydraulic world... compare to what you have and maybe we have a winner? It only makes sense to me that they would use the same 'style' of thread across an entire product like this.
So here's one of the "5/8-14 plugs". Its definitely 14 thread pitch:
This is also confirmed by holding against my 3/4" 14 vent cap:
Its tapered for sure:
It sits on the edge of the 3/4" hole but won't drop in:
Just like my 3/4" vent sits over the 1" hole without dropping in:
So I'm pretty sure its a 5/8" 14 pitch thread hole.
This is also confirmed by holding against my 3/4" 14 vent cap:
Its tapered for sure:
It sits on the edge of the 3/4" hole but won't drop in:
Just like my 3/4" vent sits over the 1" hole without dropping in:
So I'm pretty sure its a 5/8" 14 pitch thread hole.
2Pbfeet
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I really recommend seeking out a full thread chart, as there are a number of threads that are micrometer close, and come in tapered and parallel versions, and with metric threads that are almost NPT in some cases. I find having a micrometer and both metric and SAE metal thread gauges incredibly useful. Some of the threads are different by very small amounts, and it can be important to measure the thread inner diameter at boththe beginning and end of the thread.
This document has saved me more than a few times.
I don't have a source for 5/8-14 NPT; I have seen 5/8-14 BSPP fittings. Those are occasionally used in hydraulics, so a fuel tank usage is not out of the question. I would make sure that you use a diesel compatible o-ring for any BSPP fitting (British Standard Parallel Pipe. While BSPT is tapered like NPT, the angle is slightly different.
I find fuel and hydraulic fittings to be a hot mess if one gets off the beaten path of fittings commonly used in the US. There so many that are "close", and diesel is very good getting through them.
All the best,
2PbFeet
Thanks for the link @2Pbfeet ! Will come in very handy. I ordered some batteries for the digital calipers, so once I get those, I'll measure the plug to see what I got.
I also think I'll drop by the local hydraulic shop and they seem to carry just about everything. I went there when I was working on my Takeuchi excavator since it uses a strange mix of BSPP, standard and metric fittings. They had everything I needed in stock.
I also think I'll drop by the local hydraulic shop and they seem to carry just about everything. I went there when I was working on my Takeuchi excavator since it uses a strange mix of BSPP, standard and metric fittings. They had everything I needed in stock.
2Pbfeet
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That sounds like a good thought. If it were me, I'd bring the tank along just to be able to try the bushings...
All the best,
2Pbfeet