New member in TX

[type3LMTV]

Hello everyone. I've been lurking here for a while and just bought a 2003 LMTV converted as a wildland brush truck. It's got 600gal of water on the back and I'm going through, fixing it up and adding a lot of storage. It will go to Arizona for the fire season this year and I'd like to make it as reliable as possible. I've already put eco-hubs on it, cleaned every electrical connection behind the dash, unkinked the air lines to the pedal and fixed a couple of air leaks at the cab level sensor. It still has a lot of hydraulic leaks and needs cab bushings and rear swaybar shackle bushings but it's coming together and is a ton of fun to drive around.

 

[Mullaney]

Hello everyone. I've been lurking here for a while and just bought a 2003 LMTV converted as a wildland brush truck. It's got 600gal of water on the back and I'm going through, fixing it up and adding a lot of storage. It will go to Arizona for the fire season this year and I'd like to make it as reliable as possible. I've already put eco-hubs on it, cleaned every electrical connection behind the dash, unkinked the air lines to the pedal and fixed a couple of air leaks at the cab level sensor. It still has a lot of hydraulic leaks and needs cab bushings and rear swaybar shackle bushings but it's coming together and is a ton of fun to drive around.

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That's Great! Welcome to the Outfit! Post us a few pictures... And then maybe download the TM's (Technical Manuals) for your "new to you" truck. There may be a need to start replacing all the rubber in the vehicle. The front cab suspension bushings are one of the first things. You will be surprised at the ride quality improvement.

 

[type3LMTV]

Here's some pics. I had to drive it up the little ramp in the complex where my shop is. I definitely need to find a bigger ramp.

 

[type3LMTV]

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That's Great! Welcome to the Outfit! Post us a few pictures... And then maybe download the TM's (Technical Manuals) for your "new to you" truck. There may be a need to start replacing all the rubber in the vehicle. The front cab suspension bushings are one of the first things. You will be surprised at the ride quality improvement.

I've already gotten the TMs and have been going through the operators manual. The bushings aren't terrible actually. The front cab bushings are 100% gone and one of the rear swaybar shackle bushings is mostly gone, other than that it's doing pretty well. I found a couple of loose air lines at the cab level sensor and after fixing that the CTIS system started working. Which I'm really excited about! If I put the tires down to "emergency" mode and drop the cab air bags then it will fit in the door to my shop with the water tanks empty. If they're full (600 gallons) then it will fit in with the cab bags up and the tires in sand mode. Either way, I plan on getting rid of the kneeling system just to save weight, space and complexity.
I was going to keep the front glad hands but today the emergency side started leaking really badly any time the park brake is released.... so now I'm thinking about deleting those as well.

 

[LuckeyD]

Welcome. Lots of good info here and lots of good folks.

 

[Guyfang]

I have moved this thread to the right forum. You have more visibility here.

 

[Mullaney]

I've already gotten the TMs and have been going through the operators manual. The bushings aren't terrible actually. The front cab bushings are 100% gone and one of the rear swaybar shackle bushings is mostly gone, other than that it's doing pretty well. I found a couple of loose air lines at the cab level sensor and after fixing that the CTIS system started working. Which I'm really excited about! If I put the tires down to "emergency" mode and drop the cab air bags then it will fit in the door to my shop with the water tanks empty. If they're full (600 gallons) then it will fit in with the cab bags up and the tires in sand mode. Either way, I plan on getting rid of the kneeling system just to save weight, space and complexity.
I was going to keep the front glad hands but today the emergency side started leaking really badly any time the park brake is released.... so now I'm thinking about deleting those as well.

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Just remember... if you ever need to be towed - having those front glad hands would be useful. Powers the brakes from the towing vehicle.

Glad to hear that you solved those air leaks! Plugging into the emergency front glad hand on the truck with an air compressor will give you peace and quiet. Much more than running the truck while searching for leaks.

Sounds like you are making good progress!

 

[NDT]

Even with the ECOs you can still have driveline balance issues that will mangle your powertrain. Suggest you have the driveshafts checked by a competent heavy truck driveline specialist.

 

[type3LMTV]

I got to spend some time with the truck this weekend. Replaced the cab bushings and the swaybar shackle bushings (which were completely melted), added a switch to the M wire on the ctis box to gain the ability for 81psi on the highway, tightened or replaced every hose clamp in the cooling system and fixed a bunch of random stuff some grunt screwed up years ago.

I also may have had my ctis die. It worked yesterday, it worked to pull the truck out of the shop tonight. The roof clears the top of the door frame by 1/8" with the tires at 14psi! I was kind of worried that it wouldn't be able to clear after I did the cab bushings, they raised the front of the cab ~3/4". I let it idle outside and warm up with the ctis on highway, I heard the valves going and it start to air up. I swept up the shop and shut it down, less than 10 min, and when I got back in the truck it had 5 solid lights. I power cycled the truck and it worked for 10-15 seconds, then went back to 5 solid. If I tap the side of the case with my knuckles the lights will alternate between bright and dim, like it's got a loose connection inside, but that's about it. Wiggling the connector and the wires does nothing. Is it dead?

 

[Ronmar]

I got to spend some time with the truck this weekend. Replaced the cab bushings and the swaybar shackle bushings (which were completely melted), added a switch to the M wire on the ctis box to gain the ability for 81psi on the highway, tightened or replaced every hose clamp in the cooling system and fixed a bunch of random stuff some grunt screwed up years ago.

I also may have had my ctis die. It worked yesterday, it worked to pull the truck out of the shop tonight. The roof clears the top of the door frame by 1/8" with the tires at 14psi! I was kind of worried that it wouldn't be able to clear after I did the cab bushings, they raised the front of the cab ~3/4". I let it idle outside and warm up with the ctis on highway, I heard the valves going and it start to air up. I swept up the shop and shut it down, less than 10 min, and when I got back in the truck it had 5 solid lights. I power cycled the truck and it worked for 10-15 seconds, then went back to 5 solid. If I tap the side of the case with my knuckles the lights will alternate between bright and dim, like it's got a loose connection inside, but that's about it. Wiggling the connector and the wires does nothing. Is it dead?

Yea, dead is right. It is completely potted and 5 solids indicates a internal fault that you cannot get to to repair. Have heard of a few cases when a wack with a rubber mallet gets it working for a little while but in the end the failure just gets more frequent until it’s permanent… going manual requires 3 switches and a pressure gauge

 

[type3LMTV]

It seems to be temperature related. I drove the truck 20 minutes to work this morning and the CTIS seemed normal: blinking light on highway when first started, no other lights, valves cycled for the first couple minutes and then highway light went solid and I couldn't hear the valves any more. Right as I was pulling into the driveway at the shop it went 5 solid again.
I'm going to order another box.

 

[Ronmar]

yea like General mentioned in another post, these boxes are getting pretty old. I suspect some over 30 years...

Good luck!

 

[AlienFood]

I got to spend some time with the truck this weekend. Replaced the cab bushings and the swaybar shackle bushings (which were completely melted), added a switch to the M wire on the ctis box to gain the ability for 81psi on the highway, tightened or replaced every hose clamp in the cooling system and fixed a bunch of random stuff some grunt screwed up years ago.

I also may have had my ctis die. It worked yesterday, it worked to pull the truck out of the shop tonight. The roof clears the top of the door frame by 1/8" with the tires at 14psi! I was kind of worried that it wouldn't be able to clear after I did the cab bushings, they raised the front of the cab ~3/4". I let it idle outside and warm up with the ctis on highway, I heard the valves going and it start to air up. I swept up the shop and shut it down, less than 10 min, and when I got back in the truck it had 5 solid lights. I power cycled the truck and it worked for 10-15 seconds, then went back to 5 solid. If I tap the side of the case with my knuckles the lights will alternate between bright and dim, like it's got a loose connection inside, but that's about it. Wiggling the connector and the wires does nothing. Is it dead?

New here as well, dealing with the same stabilizer bar bushing meltage.
My lower mounts are completely missing on both sides, took me a second glance to realize there should be something mounting it to the stabilizer bar! And TM showed me indeed there is.

 

[Mullaney]

New here as well, dealing with the same stabilizer bar bushing meltage.
My lower mounts are completely missing on both sides, took me a second glance to realize there should be something mounting it to the stabilizer bar! And TM showed me indeed there is.

View attachment 961766

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Ouch!
I imagine that the cab bushings made a heck of a difference in the ride. It's hard to imagine that two little bushings made that much difference in my truck - but it made a world of difference! Guessing too that the stabilizer bar bushings will cut down on the rattle too...

 

[AlienFood]

Hoping I did not damage anything driving it home...started feeling heavy vibrations in the gas pedal after 55.

Good to hear on it making a difference in the ride, waiting on parts to show up here. Then take her back on the freeway!

 

[ckouba]

Hoping I did not damage anything driving it home...started feeling heavy vibrations in the gas pedal after 55.

Good to hear on it making a difference in the ride, waiting on parts to show up here. Then take her back on the freeway!

AF-

You may do best by just starting a new thread to introduce yourself and your rig and start conversing in your own space. You might not be thinking you have enough content to start a dialogue, but you definitely will.

First thing I would post on it is to get your driveshafts balanced if you're feeling shaky (many threads on that topic regarding why).

And now back to Type3's thread...

 

[AlienFood]

@type3LMTV

Will look out for what else you might stumble upon. Cool to see another newLMTV in Texas.

 

[type3LMTV]

New here as well, dealing with the same stabilizer bar bushing meltage.
My lower mounts are completely missing on both sides, took me a second glance to realize there should be something mounting it to the stabilizer bar! And TM showed me indeed there is.

View attachment 961766

Dang! My lower bushings were fine, I just cleaned a lubed them. The uppers were the ones that looked like yours. A chisel and some patience, then a wire wheels, then some brake cleaner and a rag and the mount looked good as new.

Where are you in Texas? I'd love to meet up and see someone else's rig too. There is a LOT to learn about these rigs.

 

[type3LMTV]

.
Ouch!
I imagine that the cab bushings made a heck of a difference in the ride. It's hard to imagine that two little bushings made that much difference in my truck - but it made a world of difference! Guessing too that the stabilizer bar bushings will cut down on the rattle too...

The cab bushings helped a lot, got rid of a lot of clunking and now I definitely get the air ride feel from the whole cab. To be fair I think the cab air bags never got inflated. I just left them the way they were from the previous owner until I started going through stuff and then realized that they were down. Either way, it rides a LOT better now.

 

[type3LMTV]

Does anyone know what this switch is for? It looks like it got added on but still has a mil-spec connector.