BEOD Mounting

[Coug]

Just electrical shorts and the fan relay going bad constantly. You can bypass the fan relay clutch by unplugging it, and many maintainers suggest it due to the loads carried.

As far as coolant problems, we constant have cracked radiators or the coolant system dumping everything.

I’m not near any of the trucks now but I can tell you that they have a 6 speed transmission not the standard 3 speed found in the 4 seaters.

Photo wise, what are you looking for? It’s essentially a sectioned box in the back for organization and a 2 seater up front.

The BEOD is supposed to be mounted to the M1097A2, which is a standard A2 heavy variant with the 4 speed transmission. I have never heard of any military HMMWV having a 6 speed transmission.

So when you say electrical issues, you are talking about the HMMWV itself having issues, not the BEOD?

As for the photos, a few posts back I took pictures of a couple aluminum pieces that came with my BEOD, and never did figure out exactly how they were supposed to mount. Other than that, just some inside pictures showing all the different areas so I can see if there is anything I have or don't have that is supposed to or not supposed to be there.

Thanks.

 

[EODsurplus]

So that is entirely false. We still have BEODs and so do most NG units. We have more problems with coolant systems and electrical wiring with them than any vehicle

I wasn't aware of that and sorry for spreading bad information. When I was in, our supply guy said it was an MTOE change from the BEOD to M1151s and then later to Cougars and MATVs. I was stationed at Yakima / JBLM and all the companies here got rid of them. I figured it was an army wide because of MTOE. I also didn't think of reserve units.

 

[EODsurplus]

hows the progress on your truck?

 

[Coug]

hows the progress on your truck?

Currently disassembled again so I can paint the BEOD and the truck, as well as working on installing a plate to mount my red dot stuff to. Cleaned it all yesterday, today is doing some tape and masking, tomorrow will be painting.


This was after hitting it all with a wire wheel then pressure washing it, soaking it in Purple Power cleaner, then pressure washing it again.
Planning to do everything in 383 green to start with, then add the black and brown later, depends on how I like the straight green.

 

[Coug]

Paint is still wet, but getting darker and flatter looking the longer it sits

 

[TOBASH]

CARC or Behr?

 

[Coug]

CARC or Behr?

Rapco.

The trailer chassis the BEOD is sitting on is Behr Marquee after about 6 months though (but not the fenders).

 

[EODsurplus]

I think your paint job is a really good job. Im kinda considering doing it myself now

 

[Coug]

I think your paint job is a really good job. Im kinda considering doing it myself now

Thank you.


There are a few spots that are a little light, a few others where there is too much and it ran a little. Rained a little last night so can't do much again until it dries.
Need to finish painting the roof rack and the windshield retainers.

Only issue I have is my doors are 3 color camo. Haven't decided if I want to paint them or not. Roof is also camo, but with the rack on it will be difficult to see so not that important.

I might be over your way in September as I'm registered for the NorthWest Overland Rally in Plain, hitting up Selah is an extra hundred or so miles of driving out of my way, but I've been wanting to stop in for a while now.

 

[Coug]

So the paint darkens up quite a bit in the first 24 hours when it dries.
Here you can see where I touched up a few areas I didn't get covered well enough on the first pass.


Then here is with the doors on. The BEOD seems to be a little darker than the HMMWV and less sheen, not sure why but hopefully it evens out.

 

[EODsurplus]

Thank you.


There are a few spots that are a little light, a few others where there is too much and it ran a little. Rained a little last night so can't do much again until it dries.
Need to finish painting the roof rack and the windshield retainers.

Only issue I have is my doors are 3 color camo. Haven't decided if I want to paint them or not. Roof is also camo, but with the rack on it will be difficult to see so not that important.

I might be over your way in September as I'm registered for the NorthWest Overland Rally in Plain, hitting up Selah is an extra hundred or so miles of driving out of my way, but I've been wanting to stop in for a while now.

I haven't been to the NorthWest Overland Rally in a few years now. I keep wanting to go back but it just hasn't worked out. I thought with this pandemic they would just cancel all together. As for stopping in Selah I don't have to much here that would probably interest you. I mainly sell ammo cans and military generators. Most of the big things I sell out of my house here.

Keep up the good work. Wouldn't the purist in the hobby of military vehicles appreciate the runs in the paint? It would be more authentic.

 

[TOBASH]

Color me GREEN with envy.

Really nice job.

 

[EODsurplus]

So the paint darkens up quite a bit in the first 24 hours when it dries.
Here you can see where I touched up a few areas I didn't get covered well enough on the first pass.
View attachment 797236

Then here is with the doors on. The BEOD seems to be a little darker than the HMMWV and less sheen, not sure why but hopefully it evens out.
View attachment 797235

Did you spray the paint with a gun or roll it on?

 

[Coug]

Did you spray the paint with a gun or roll it on?

I used a sprayer. I really don't like painting, so wanted to get it over with as quickly as possible.

This is the basic model of sprayer I used. Used about a gallon and a half to paint the truck and the BEOD. Didn't do the inside of the truck or BEOD, but did do the top of the fenders and a few other things.

Wagner FLEXiO 970 HVLP Direct Feed From Can Paint Sprayer

The FLEXiO 970 is a direct feed paint spray system that allows you to pull paint directly from any paint can. Paint longer & faster, with less mess & clean up!

www.wagnerspraytech.com

Used the Rapco (gilespie) paint. Cleanup wasn't too bad, just ran hot soapy water through the main unit, and then used some Xylene to clean all the sprayer bits.
Nice thing about this sprayer is when you run low on paint you just pour some more into the can that's on the pump unit, or you can just switch cans. You aren't having to unscrew jars and hold that extra weight. It will also spray at every angle.

Downside is it wasted a bit of paint and the cleanup took almost as long as the painting did (which wasn't that bad, and a whole lot faster still than using brushes and rollers)


In the photo a couple posts back you can see where I touched it up with the brush. I was hoping it would dry to look the same as the sprayed paint, but it isn't, so I ordered some spray cans. There isn't enough surface area for me to justify using the sprayer and having to go through the cleanup again when a rattle can or two will give me the finish I want, and can touch it up as necessary.



If you are painting just the truck, then one gallon would be more than enough to cover all of it.

 

[CallMeColt]

I just got one of these bodies along with a M1097A2 that had a SECM in the back. Holes line up close. I'm going to start my own thread on it but thanks for sharing what you did.

 

[CallMeColt]

View attachment 789688
and this one on the passenger side. (the rust mark on the front left looks like it would go under the BEOD front mounting bracket)

I know this post is very old, but what did you end up doing with this insert? I really want to make my body "proper" and my was sawed out for some reason. If you didn't end up using it, I'd buy it & pay for shipping. It could be shipped as is with a labeled slapped on it. I can send a label to you. Or, if I by chance have something you need, I will trade!

 

[rolling18]

I'm just about ready to install mine.
It looks like the holes for the front brackets will line up, but in the rear I will have to drill 3 holes through the bed to bolt it down.
I have 2 1/2"x2" aluminum bars with holes drilled in them to clamp it down to the bed and frame.

Mine is the 1123 which has the heavy springs in it so I expect mine will like it a little better than yours. Probably can't put much weight in it without the heavy springs and hangars, as the decal on the BEOD puts it almost 7500 lbs GVW when installed.

im looking into one of these for my M1123 2 man.
how or can you access the rear driver side area where the transmission computer would be? blocked off?

 

[Coug]

im looking into one of these for my M1123 2 man.
how or can you access the rear driver side area where the transmission computer would be? blocked off?

Both sides have half doors to access the rear passenger footwell area. On driver's side the shelf at the bottom of the roll up door is the top of it, on the passenger side it opens to the main compartment.
There is also a small door on the driver's side to access the long, lower compartment that runs under the main compartment (between the truck fenders)

Bad pixture because it's dark outside right now, but should give the general idea

 

[rolling18]

hey thanks for the quick reply!
wasnt expecting a response from such old thread.. thanks!
great info! I dont have the half door as shown. mine is solid paned and the folding troop seats bolt on the whole top edge
those door ppl are wanting 800 for a set!!!!
looks like it could be ALLOT of wasted room if not accesable
so accessing them from inside or top is good.

 

[Coug]

hey thanks for the quick reply!
wasnt expecting a response from such old thread.. thanks!
great info! I dont have the half door as shown. mine is solid paned and the folding troop seats bolt on the whole top edge
those door ppl are wanting 800 for a set!!!!
looks like it could be ALLOT of wasted room if not accesable
so accessing them from inside or top is good.

These doors are specific to the BEOD and the SECM type truck bodies. They have a lip on the upper edge that puts them behind the roll down door, sealing out weather and securing the door from opening when the roll door is down.
If you just have the filler panel, then yes, that area is going to be closed off and unusable for normal operations.

edit: the actual setup for the BEOD removes the seat base and the TCM mounts onto a special bracket that also has the storage location for explosive primers or so I have been told. I just know that door has a lockable latch, and so does the roll up door so you'd have to unlock two seperate locks in order to access.