What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[Sharecropper]

I'm a little surprised you didn't use AN fittings (Aeroquip) and braided line considering the funds spent on the project already.
Looks great regardless!

I have that filter setup on several things around the ranch and it works well.
Plastic doesn't discolor over time and can tell at a glance if water present.

Nice work
Love the attention to detail.

Don't be surprised. I actually considered converting to AN fittings and lines but discovered the fittings for the R12T filter were male ORB fittings which I did not have in my inventory. In addition I needed to cut the 3/8" fuel hard line forward of the filter and install a 3/8" compression x 3/8" hose barb adapter, and this connection would have been complicated to convert to AN. Thanks for the compliment.

 

[Spence]

I spent the last couple of weekends chasing the electrical issues in my M1010. It was blowing an aftermarket fuse on an ignition wire to the 12V bulkhead adjacent to the master cylinder when I keyed on. I pulled the harness and looked it over, replacing damaged wires and putting it back to stock with the plan B mod for removing the Duvac. I went back to the 24V direct drive starter which required fabricating the now obsolete bracket. I have the 12V redux starter and bracket as a spare.

The wiring had been hacked a lot before I got it, so I was happy to study the wiring schematics in the TM and know what goes where and that it was back to the original configuration. The truck started shockingly fast on the first try after all this work. When I went to turn on the service lights at the blackout switch, the horn started blaring.

Thankfully, I had read about the diode that fails on the back of the relay. I snipped out the diode and now the horn works as it should.
A previous owner had clipped the wire to the horn and I assume they didn’t know about the diode. After the truck had run for a few minutes, I was checking in on the engine and the pink wire to the injection pump sole oid started sparking and the engine shut off.

The fusible link that I installed to replace the aftermarket fuse holder started burning. Luckily, I had a fire extinguisher on hand and hit it with a quick shot and the fire was out. I suppose the insulator for the positive fuel shutoff solenoid stud had failed and allowed a dead short to the body of the injection pump. I ordered q new solenoid and picked up some new fusible link to get it sorted. It felt great to hear it running again!

Can’t wait to start driving it around again.

 

[Spence]

The vacuum line goes to the VRV on the Injector pump. Lower position. This provides vacuum to the transmission modulator for shifting. The single wire connector goes nowhere, it ends on the other side of the firewall in another connector. I have not researched it but may have to do with either the arctic package or the M1010 ambulance. I have the same wire on my M1031.

Correct. The blue wire goes to the fuel pump to the passenger box heater on my M1010 ambulance.

 

[Sharecropper]

Got the Sherpa 24v 17,000 lb winch mounted and the bumper & grille guard back on. The Sherpa came with the wireless remote so I mounted the transmitter on the core support immediately behind the control box so the cable can stay plugged in. More details in my rebuild thread.

 

[maddawg308]

Finally had some free time to play with the fuel system, upgraded to a spin-on fuel filter system as detailed in this thread from a while back. It was a lot easier than expected to install, only thing it's waiting on are a fresh set of batteries and getting the air out of the system, which will hopefully be tomorrow.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Spent the morning removing the batteries for the fuel filter upgrade, vacuuming and cleaning out the top of the intake manifold and the space between the radiator and the grille that had accumulated a lot of squirrel nuts and bird nest junk from it's hibernation at my former location. Must've been 20 pounds of pine needles and leaves jammed in there. The radiator should breathe better now.

Found these two loose connections, one looks like a vacuum line not connected to anything, center rear of the engine. Other is a wiring connection driver's side against the firewall. Anyone know off the top of their heads what they need to be connected to?

Also scraped off the front bumper markings, I'll need to get some stencils now. There are some other obliterated markings underneath them, but the last owners were:

101 ABN 101 AVN BN HQ10

First block is 101st Airborne. Last block of letters is a little confusing, as there is a 101st Combat Aviation Brigade, not a Battalion, so not sure the discrepancy. Headquarters truck #10. The unit structure I only see the current organization, so maybe someone familiar with the 101st structure from the 1990s when this truck was last in service, if you can chime in I appreciate it.


View attachment 951808View attachment 951809View attachment 951810View attachment 951811

101st Aviation Battalion History

Comancheros AHB

A Company, 101st Assault Helicopter Battalion, 101st Airborne Division. First and Finest

www.comanchero.org

The 101st Airborne Division was officially designated as the 101st Air Cavalry Division on 1 July 1968. Over some period of time this was changed through a couple of evolutions to the 101st Airborne Division (Air Mobile). It was expected that the 101st would operate exactly the way the 1st Air Cavalry Division had been doing, but it did not have this total capability until about the end of March 1969 because it did not have the necessary aviation resources. Some time after the designation as air cav/air mobile, part of the reorganization required obtaining (or creating) the aviation group and obtaining the additional aviation units. An airborne division aviation battalion (101st Avn Bn), by TO&E, consisted of a headquarters element (either a HQ company or HQ Detachment), a Direct Support Company and a General Support Company (A and B companies, respectfully). TO&E for the air mobile aviation battalion was for a HQ Company, three lift companies and an armed helicopter (gun) company.

On 1 July 1968, at Camp Eagle in the Republic of Vietnam, the 160th Aviation Group was constituted with elements of the 2d Squadron, 17th Cavalry; the 101st Aviation Battalion (Assault Helicopter); the 158th Aviation Battalion (Assault Helicopter); and the 159th Aviation Battalion (Assault Helicopter). Less than a year later, on 25 June 1969, the 160th Aviation Group was redesignated as the 101st Aviation Group

 

[Tinstar]

Had a Hawker Battery go bad. The other one is still strong as ever.
Attempted to revive it over the last two weeks with zero success.
It will not hold a charge above 11.55

I don’t feel like spending $2k on a new set of Hawker 6TAGMs right now, so regular battery’s it is.

Broke out the Optima 6T adapters and will be installing two Optima 34 battery’s tomorrow as soon as they arrive.

These adapters used to be really hard to find but that’s probably changed. I’ve had these for years.

These give the Red/Yellow Top Optima’s the same foot print and height of the 6T battery’s.
That way the stock brackets still work.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Optima's are garbage - they went to #%(& over a decade ago when they were bought out by JCI - JCI is usually a very good manufacturer of batteries but they moved production to Mexico and they've been #%(& ever since. Quality control has decreased substantially. Gone are the 10+ year service life - 2-3 years is now the normal for them.

 

[Tinstar]

Installed the new battery’s today.
Looks much different than the hawkers.
It will work for now.

Under hood is filthy and will get a bath tomorrow now that I can move the truck.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Finally started digging into my M1009 project, which started with a bad paint experience.

Got it sanded down, and repainted (twice, now) and will have pics later.

Found out neither Gen 1 or Gen 2 lights come on when KOEO - front batt is constantly dead - Gen 1 light comes on when blower motor is turned on (common issue) - Electrical issues are expected as the PD that had it, removed the BO switch and hardwired the headlight switch hot at all times, and installed a radio (that doesn't work). Gens DO produce power - but not sure how if the gen lights aren't functional. I have a hunch they wired the exciter circuit hot at all times so it would charge but in doing so is draining the battery. I ordered a bunch of new fuses ( always replace all the fuses when I get a CUCV - common failure and cheap to replace) and will be poking into it more later.

Radiator cap isn't sealed properly as it spits a bit of coolant. Doesn't appear to be a head gasket as those usually pressurize and vent into the degas bottle but this was weeping from under the cap itself. Come to find out the cap on it is the OE cap that hasn't been made for 30 years, so I ordered a replacement.

 

[Lothar]

Made these molle panels to replace the dash radio mounts.

 

[deank]

Finally made some time to go outside and play. Got both rear view cameras working and extra reverse lights to light up the hitch.

 

[vanaisa]

changed bearings and brushes on noisy alternator.

well, maybe someone can help - after some 10 000km, alternator started act weird. When i start car, alt light goes off within 5...8 seconds. Jet voltmeter shows 12.xx volts. Charging (13.xx V) starts after few minutes.
12V, drivers side alt, changed bearings, brushes. Gates 7575XL is new, no slipping...

 

[TechnoWeenie]

well, maybe someone can help - after some 10 000km, alternator started act weird. When i start car, alt light goes off within 5...8 seconds. Jet voltmeter shows 12.xx volts. Charging (13.xx V) starts after few minutes.
12V, drivers side alt, changed bearings, brushes. Gates 7575XL is new, no slipping...

You have 2 ALT lights - GEN 1 and GEN 2. Which one is acting wonky?

Gen2 needs a little higher throttle to 'wake up' (excite). It actually specifically mentions it in the TM.

Driver side is Gen 1 and charges the front battery.

I would check the bulbs, cluster, and the exciting circuit in general - it goes through the GEN 1/ GEN 2 bulbs.

 

[vanaisa]

Only one alternator. And GEN1. It is 12V system.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Only one alternator. And GEN1. It is 12V system.

Then you're on your own, because no one knows what mod was done to make it 12V.

I would still trace down the exciter circuit.

Also, you don't need a CUCV ground isolated alternator if it's converted to 12v

 

[vanaisa]

Sorry for my morning short post It is converted long time ago, worked great years. Also, after my bearings/brushes swap. Regulator and diode block were good (checked with multimeter). This thing started slowly. I am pretty weak at electricity but somehow i think, it is alternator related. It started slowly, i presume. Can regulator or diodes make such thing?

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Picked up my M1009 with evidence of a coolant leak. It was part of the negotiation process.

Pressure tested the system. No leaks. Weird.... Why is there coolant all over the radiator if the radiator is good?




Thie P/N of this cap was superceded back in the early 90s.

It's the original cap.

Rubber seal turned into flakes of brittle gunk.

New locking safety cap was $11

 

[Another Ahab]

Picked up my M1009 with evidence of a coolant leak. It was part of the negotiation process.

Pressure tested the system. No leaks. Weird.... Why is there coolant all over the radiator if the radiator is good?


View attachment 959214

Thie P/N of this cap was superceded back in the early 90s.

It's the original cap.

Rubber seal turned into flakes of brittle gunk.

New locking safety cap was $11

That's a mighty reasonably priced cure overall, TechnoWeenie. Nice!

 

[Spence]

Finally have some time to work on my M1010 again. It sat since summer last year. I had used it to travel out of state for a camping trip and it started surging when I would let off the throttle about 2 hours into the trip. After sitting for a while, I tried starting it and it was blowing an aftermarket fuse that goes to the two terminal block adjacent to the ground plug relay. This wire should have a fusible link. The wiring was heavily modified when I got it and I ended up pulling the harness to make it match the schematics from the back of the technical manual with the Duvac plan B applied, the resisters removed, and a manual switch for the ground plugs. I also took the time to swap in the 24 volt starter after finding that the small stud the purple wire goes to on the 12 volt starter was stripped and not having luck finding a replacement solenoid. I had to fabricate a bracket to work with the 24 volt starter but made one to match the one from the factory based on photos. I also added the lower original alternator to enable a 24 volt system. I really want to make the 24 volt system work so I can get the heater and air conditioner on the patient box to work.

After connecting the batteries, the truck fired up immediately. I let it run while checking the lights and seeing how it would idle. All seemed good. After about 10-15 minutes, I was looking under the hood and saw smoke and sparks from near the injection pump, then as I ran to shut off the truck, one of the fusible links that I had installed to the two terminal block adjacent to the ground plug relay mentioned above started burning and the engine shut off. I had an extinguisher and gave it a quick puff and the fire was gone. I found that the positive wire to the fuel shutoff solenoid had welded itself to the terminal following inspection afterwards.

Fast forward to today, I decided to pull the cover from the injection pump and found that the pump was empty of fuel. The fuel shutoff solenoid was swollen and covered in what appeared to be dirt. Interestingly, the bottom of the pump bowl didn’t have any visible grime. I installed the new shutoff solenoid that I bought but am still not sure why the wiring at the terminal block caught on fire and had the arcing at the injection pump positive. My thinking going into the new solenoid install was that the old solenoid had grounded out the positive post to the pump body but on disassembly that didn’t seem to be the case.

I plan to remove the loom from the harness again tomorrow and retrace the wires. I may just end up starting over with a used harness, as the harness is so butchered. I have a large list of projects I want to complete on the M1010 but need it to run first. I’ll be back at it tomorrow.