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LME maintenance tent erection

coachgeo

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Just took a guess and did TM recommended Square knot tie offs. For roof did one at roof where hits Eve area on both sides. From there did new set of Beckett lacing down the walls between the two covers. Started at top; at Eve... worked down till tie off at bottom. Monkey Climbed again and finagled a way to get velcro weather flap over laces on the walls to lay and hook in place.....

Tada..... two main covers laced & Velcro-ed at center- DONE. (only took about an hour to do just the wall lacing)
 
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coachgeo

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Got one End Section/Curtain fully Beckett Laced and Weather Velcro Flap affixed. Did it with Curtains pulled open to give everything as much slack as possible. Again stood on the POP UP/helmet top in bed of LMTV as my scaffolding. (It is set at same height as Cab Roof 9.5ft?)

Thought for moment was going to end up with a PITA event. You know the kind when your working on your Truck or Car and you end up throwing a wrench across the garage with !@$$% streaming from your lungs cause you realized many steps back did something realllly STUPID and now your gonna have to go back thru your steps undoing things; so you can start over to fix SNAFU that resulted steps later. . .... What brought on that assumption this !@#$$ was looming ahead...... was realization that one corner; had the grommet of Roof/Wall Cover and Grommet of End Section/Curtain out of order. Grommet of Roof/Wall had to go on the Peg LAST; not first in that corner. End/Curtain section had to be below it. Had it reversed.

Many steps back..... to install Cover over Pegs at Eve and Peak... it required ratchet straps and long ropes attached to cover and opposite rope end fixed out in a distance to something strategically placed . Did this to tuggggggggggg/stretch Cover on a hot day; to get a grommet over its mating Peg.. Thus why assumed a PITA event was looming ahead. Was expecting that as pulled each of the two sections up off the Peg in that corer to rearrange their order...... each cover was going to go PINGGGGGGG.... requiring to have to re-setup all the tugging rigging to get things back on the Peg. Total surprise it took very little tugging and no rigging to get the covers (in the correct order) over the Peg. . PHEWWW.... new neighbor didn't end up hearing what sounds like a loud cursing sailor on deck mid storm.

Even with not counting the pending PITA / that wasn't ..... still took about 30-45 min longer to Becket Lace the End Piece/Curtain than it did to do the middle between the two full Wall/Roof Covers. Physically End Section/Curtain was easier..... just more time consuming to kind of set things just right
 
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coachgeo

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last End Section laced. Fitment sucks. Was not hot today though. Didn't velcro down the weather flaps. Going to loosen all the straps on the purlins and the uprights and next time it is hot to try to snug the fitment down good then do the last velcro flaps. Ohhh.... and of course... discovered same error as other day. Took a little longer to fix but didn't need riggen to tug it with.

CLEANING?? What should clean it with. One of the walls the last Soldiers put it up wet and muddy. ruined a bunch of stuff. Need to clean good so any repairs I do actually sticks.


COAT IT? What should coat it with. Can see light thru the ceiling at stitches.. and a few spots worn that a patch would be a bit overkill. A polyurethane paint orr?
 

swbradley1

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:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 

coachgeo

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:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
Monkey fits me well.... had to be one for this build
 

coachgeo

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yesturday wrangled more with the one End Wall/Curtain side and didnt want to fit right. Wrestled the whole frame to get it to sit seemingly more Square and level at the base. Honestly that helped nothing. Even took Side Wall and End Wall off the Peg at that top corner to tug and re-arrange..... but was wasted time too. Helped nothing. Wrestling back was not fun.

Ended up having to Becket lace down the wall a few to five laces.. Tie it off... Then start Beckett lacing downward again at next Lace... Wash Rinse Repeat a few times till it all laid best I could get it. Doing it as described in TM would draw the Covers into hella wrinkles that would prevent Weather Flap from coming even close to laying flat allowing Velcro to hook up w/out having open gaps.
 
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coachgeo

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Anyone got ideas of ways to replace the windows and screen? Seems they are same as TEMPER tent... but ones I found were like nearly 350 bucks a piece.. that is not happening. Considering something like thicker Nylon or similar strapping... say 1.5? 2? inch wide ..... and suround the window with it inside and outside... not by glues and brads thru it but by glues and Nutcerts.... then can screw an aluminum frame in. Plexi or speed glass? mounted to frame. Unscrewing allows cover to be removed and folded per TM.
 

coachgeo

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storing unused End Wall.

have an unused torn-ish end wall. Any ideas on storage or dual purpose? Such as hanging it on rails cables or something, to make a movable interior wall to lesson how much space you are heating/cooling?
 

coachgeo

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Anyone got ideas of ways to replace the windows and screen? Seems they are same as TEMPER tent... but ones I found were like nearly 350 bucks a piece.. that is not happening. Considering something like thicker Nylon or similar strapping... say 1.5? 2? inch wide ..... and suround the window with it inside and outside... not by glues and brads thru it but by glues and Nutcerts.... then can screw an aluminum frame in. Plexi or speed glass? mounted to frame. Unscrewing allows cover to be removed and folded per TM.
still brain storming..... or farting.... matters how you look at it.

Window if done in vinyl.. anyone have idea the Spec of the window thickness in "mil"

in vinyl world Mil is below. I thinkk the walls of LME are 20 mil???


What is Mil Thickness in Plastic Sheeting?
Understanding Mil Thickness

✔ Mil Thickness Definition: 1 mil = one-thousandth of an inch (0.001 inch or 0.0254 mm).
✔ Comparison to Other Units: Mil is not the same as a millimeter (1 mil = 0.0254 mm).
✔ Common Examples:

  • Everyday trash bags: 1.2 to 1.7 mils
  • Stronger trash bags: 3 to 6 mils
  • Credit card thickness: ~30 mils
  • Deck of playing cards (including the box): ~750 mils or 0.75 inches
  • The phrase “A mil is not the same thickness as a millimeter” is correct but could be clearer by explaining a millimeter is much thicker than a mil (1 mm = 39.37 mils).
  • The term "mil" is not an abbreviation – This is correct; “mil” comes from the Latin "mille," meaning thousand.
  • Mentioning industrial applications: Thicker plastic sheeting (e.g., 6 to 20+ mils) is used for vapor barriers, greenhouse films, and heavy-duty containment liners.
 

coachgeo

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North of Cincy OH
still brain storming..... or farting.... matters how you look at it.

Window if done in vinyl.. anyone have idea the Spec of the window thickness in "mil"

in vinyl world Mil is below. I thinkk the walls of LME are 20 mil???


What is Mil Thickness in Plastic Sheeting?
Understanding Mil Thickness

✔ Mil Thickness Definition: 1 mil = one-thousandth of an inch (0.001 inch or 0.0254 mm).
✔ Comparison to Other Units: Mil is not the same as a millimeter (1 mil = 0.0254 mm).
✔ Common Examples:

  • Everyday trash bags: 1.2 to 1.7 mils
  • Stronger trash bags: 3 to 6 mils
  • Credit card thickness: ~30 mils
  • Deck of playing cards (including the box): ~750 mils or 0.75 inches

  • The phrase “A mil is not the same thickness as a millimeter” is correct but could be clearer by explaining a millimeter is much thicker than a mil (1 mm = 39.37 mils).
  • The term "mil" is not an abbreviation – This is correct; “mil” comes from the Latin "mille," meaning thousand.
  • Mentioning industrial applications: Thicker plastic sheeting (e.g., 6 to 20+ mils) is used for vapor barriers, greenhouse films, and heavy-duty containment liners.
got some samples of window plastic from ma company...... turns out the.. .... shelter material and windows are way thicker than I thought. Like close to 80mil for windows and maybe 40-50 mil for walls.
 
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coachgeo

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Anyone got an extra "End Header" with the hooks for curtain etc. thinking on hanging my ratted up extra shelter end piece in middle so can cut down to only needing to heat half the whole thing when outside working in colder weather. And it will store better hanging up anyway.
 

coachgeo

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Apologize. Lots been going on. Thought had updated this.

Anyway here's where am at..

This thang is old/put up wet (and muddy) before it came here. Soo I consider the roof a btt compromised. Can see sun thru some tl seams... Way to many actually, It's where row ruff side Velcro is sewn into roof material.. It's where the two half's of the shelter material get Beckett Laced

Experimented (and failed),.. regrouped and installed 2" Ratchet straps in an X pattern against ceiling in every one of the 8 large open spans of ceiling. Feel this is where snow would sit if it sagged roof any. X straps is taut to aid in snow load support.

Had to customize the Ratchet end of each strap or it would have jabbed into the ceiling or had ratchet mechanism face ceiling to where you could not operate it.
 
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coachgeo

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North of Cincy OH
While installing straps also hung lights. Three 200w High Bay LED lights down center, at ceiling peak. (hung similar design to TM's) .

Also installed Five- 100w LED ( three hung from Eave Purlin per side and hang near wall's ) as Med.ium Bay lights. Each side also gets two of these same 100w that will be adapting to ground bound lights to shine under vehicle while working on it. (and/or to Blind me while working on it.) This totals to the five lights per side.

Each of the two rows of five set of lights at each shelter side wall,.. all plug into its own Funky heavy duty Extension cord that has 110tv recepticals every 3ft-ish. Same kind of cord is how the three High Bay lights get powered. Each of these three funky cords will get a generic heavy extension cord all leading to one corner of shelter nearest house .

Tomorrow the rest of wiring to be installed.

IN house
- will install adapter from 240v generator 4prong twist lock female--> to old school male 240v 3prong Stove. Adapter @ Stove end, has extra wire you run to a nearby outlet to tap into a ground on one of its recepticals. This is so adapter will have the more modern ground and neutral, when all said-n-done. Old version stove plugs don't have a neutral and ground; hence that extra wire to compensate .

- still in house 240v generator 4prong twist lock extension cord. Will run from that adapter; thru house and out a window. Tacked to ceiling most likely. Decide tomorrow . Window that got cracked open, then winterized.

IN Shelter
- that cord keeps going into one corner shelter nearist house (total 100ft cord)
- in shelter / in same corner, on a table will be a Contractor's 240v Power Divider box with six 110v twin recepticals with breakers. Essentially a temporary-ish Breaker Box w/plug Ins. The 240v twist lock generator extension cord running from house to shelter will power this.

The three Funky extension cords leading to each row of light's, plug into this Power box. Each of three on own breaker.

All above is Chinesium stuff. Please pray for me that my house and/or shelter does not burn down. Or one or more component does not just FAIL. When remodel house, will make more proper. If I domt burn up first LOL..
 
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Another Ahab

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While installing straps also hung lights. Three 200w High Bay LED lights down center, at ceiling peak. (hung similar design to TM's) .

All above is Chinesium stuff. Please pray for me that my house and/or shelter does not burn down. Or one or more component does not just FAIL. When remodel house, will make more proper. If I domt burn up first LOL..
Guessing from your comments, coachgeo:

- Are you in a high-risk Burn Zone? In Ohio?
 

coachgeo

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Guessing from your comments, coachgeo:

- Are you in a high-risk Burn Zone? In Ohio?
No- half joking cause it's Chinesium Quality stuff and half not joking because this is a 1950's old house with old electrical system in it.

Not helping is the Dis. Vet. I sponsor who lives in van outside w/extension cords going all directions to outlets outside and thru windows into this house
 

Another Ahab

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No- half joking cause it's Chinesium Quality stuff and half not joking because this is a 1950's old house with old electrical system in it.

Not helping is the Dis. Vet. I sponsor who lives in van outside w/extension cords going all directions to outlets outside and thru windows into this house


Oh, man; sounds like a textbook description from your local Fire Department of what NOT to do...Yikes
 

coachgeo

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North of Cincy OH
Little behind. Got tied up (aka forgot to account for) re-imagining / fabri-craftin the kitchen cabinet had to pull away to reach/mount power cord behind. Needing updating anyway.

240v extension now fully mounted to ceiling and out window to shelter.

HAVE POWER. Tested one side light bank and all three lite up. Doing final touches to where it exits window

Will then run other cords from light banks to the box and (CA surfer dude voice) Be totally LIT Man
 
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