- 3,994
- 4,173
- 113
- Location
- Brooklyn, NY
My statements were very clear. Your level of work is better than other companies who perform hack jobs. You also took months and months (a year IIRC). Carefully read what I write Mog. I threw no shade on you.I had a short conversation with Chris at Twisted Steel Performance, he has no dyno data on the engines he builds, only that some of his customers claim that it performs BETTER than a mildly tuned Dmax and pulls better than a Dmax, a mildly tuned Dmax will make 450-500HP and that platform will make 600+ on a stock platform.
So I am calling BS, what a customer says after spending a Beaucoup amount of money means very little in the real world as pocket book bias takes over.
Considering that GEP had to put a girdle and many other improvements just to get 250HP out of the 6.5L and the known limitations of a indirectly injected engine that is mechanically injected dictate that would be a VERY expensive goal, in one article I read they put over 100 HRS just in head preparations, at a nominal rate of $100 HR that's 10K in labor just in the heads not to mention a large pile of custom valves, springs etc. and there is no performance data on that project.
Add the fact that a stock P400 long block will now set you back around $19,000 because they have been discontinued the numbers do not add up.
And IMHO there is no way anyone is going to get 400HP out of a standard production 6.5L lower end. well for more than a few seconds anyway
And without high pressure computerized rail direct injection (talking 30-40K psi vs 2K psi) there is little one can actually do to improve efficiency which adds up to much more heat in a platform that has trouble getting rid of heat to begin with, I doubt even if possible one would not be able to use most of the available HP. BTW the Dmax flows 1/3 of the cooling water in GPM than the 6.5L (read less HP wasted at the water pump) and I have zero issues with coolant temps.
Now I am not saying getting 400HP is not possible but 50 years experience with mechanically, indirectly injected diesel engines tells me not only would it be expensive it would not be practical on the street.
Going on 25,000 miles with exceptional drivabilty and dependability tells me that this is the best formula for a daily driver at max highway speeds.
I normally cruise at around 82MPH mostly because I don't like being around other traffic and still looking for that "warning" ticket for speeding, also trying for a "exhibition of acceleration" ticket but LE generally just gives me a thumbs up when I do. (sometimes a guy just can't win)
I built the Duravee for around 10-12K including full stepper instrumentation, all new lights and fully rewiring the truck from tail lights to headlights in my spare time before the Wuhan made my job go away.
Any time you want to pass by and drive the DuraVee you are welcome to do so, then you will have actual experience of which to speak of.
It is completely different cruising @2200 RPM at 75MPH without having the Tasmanian Devil trying to get out of the engine compartment...
MM
A GEP girdle costs $200. A rebuild 10K. For most people a Duramax costs 4-5 times that.
Mog..: YOU have skills and don’t take shortcuts. MOST don’t so they trust bad companies to do their work. Then they cry because kits are incomplete and harnesses are hack jobs and things fall apart. Most companies want vehicles in and out quickly and don’t pay your type of attention to detail.
A built GEP will do just fine. Anyone who needs more HP should buy a 2006 H1Alpha.
Respectfully Mog, just go online and look at all the complaints and unhappy people who allowed a third party to Duramax swap their rigs. You are literally the only person I’ve seen who did it right and has no complaints. Even “satisfied customers” are frequently in the shoppe with “issues”. I call bull$h!t on anyone who says anything else.
Again, reread what I wrote. I said nothing bad about you. I indicated that a built GEP block will be good enough for most people and avoids other issues encountered when converting to Duramax. I also mention lower pressures at the IP allowing biodiesel choices and lack of computer allowing for less wiring and programming issues.
Conclusion, you kicked ass and knocked it out of the park. So answer this Mog… Given there was no price difference between DIY and a third party company, would you trust a third party shoppe or a “kit” to swap in a Duramax into your daily driver?
Last edited:
