What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[Spence]

Tha

Finally made some time to go outside and play. Got both rear view cameras working and extra reverse lights to light up the hitch.

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That’s a great setup. I should do a rear view mirror style camera on my M1010 as well. I have a camera that works through my phone but it can be laggy and this looks a lot better integrated.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Finally have some time to work on my M1010 again. It sat since summer last year. I had used it to travel out of state for a camping trip and it started surging when I would let off the throttle about 2 hours into the trip. After sitting for a while, I tried starting it and it was blowing an aftermarket fuse that goes to the two terminal block adjacent to the ground plug relay. This wire should have a fusible link. The wiring was heavily modified when I got it and I ended up pulling the harness to make it match the schematics from the back of the technical manual with the Duvac plan B applied, the resisters removed, and a manual switch for the ground plugs. I also took the time to swap in the 24 volt starter after finding that the small stud the purple wire goes to on the 12 volt starter was stripped and not having luck finding a replacement solenoid. I had to fabricate a bracket to work with the 24 volt starter but made one to match the one from the factory based on photos. I also added the lower original alternator to enable a 24 volt system. I really want to make the 24 volt system work so I can get the heater and air conditioner on the patient box to work.

After connecting the batteries, the truck fired up immediately. I let it run while checking the lights and seeing how it would idle. All seemed good. After about 10-15 minutes, I was looking under the hood and saw smoke and sparks from near the injection pump, then as I ran to shut off the truck, one of the fusible links that I had installed to the two terminal block adjacent to the ground plug relay mentioned above started burning and the engine shut off. I had an extinguisher and gave it a quick puff and the fire was gone. I found that the positive wire to the fuel shutoff solenoid had welded itself to the terminal following inspection afterwards.

Fast forward to today, I decided to pull the cover from the injection pump and found that the pump was empty of fuel. The fuel shutoff solenoid was swollen and covered in what appeared to be dirt. Interestingly, the bottom of the pump bowl didn’t have any visible grime. I installed the new shutoff solenoid that I bought but am still not sure why the wiring at the terminal block caught on fire and had the arcing at the injection pump positive. My thinking going into the new solenoid install was that the old solenoid had grounded out the positive post to the pump body but on disassembly that didn’t seem to be the case.

I plan to remove the loom from the harness again tomorrow and retrace the wires. I may just end up starting over with a used harness, as the harness is so butchered. I have a large list of projects I want to complete on the M1010 but need it to run first. I’ll be back at it tomorrow.

Surging is usually a sign of air getting in, or your pump wearing out. You will find grit in the pump when it disintegrates. There's a plastic piece that's usually the culprit.

 

[Another Ahab]

I plan to remove the loom from the harness again tomorrow and retrace the wires. I may just end up starting over with a used harness, as the harness is so butchered. I have a large list of projects I want to complete on the M1010 but need it to run first. I’ll be back at it tomorrow.

Bird-Dogging electrical problems is (IMHO), like dying and going to the Eternal Damnation of Hell

 

[Spence]

Surging is usually a sign of air getting in, or your pump wearing out. You will find grit in the pump when it disintegrates. There's a plastic piece that's usually the culprit.

Either air or a failed pump are definitely possible. I made new lines after getting the truck but wasn’t too happy with how they turned out. I have an AN kit I was planning to use and may end up installing it. Getting those rubber lines connected to the sending unit is a pain and hopefully AN lines would make that process easier should I need to do future troubleshooting.

I had also read about grit from the plastic piece disintegrating. I am fairly confident that the solenoid had dirt on it but could be mistaken. When I bought the truck, the previous owner had replaced the fuel tank with a new one and also said the pump was a new/reman pump. It has the correct part number for the 1984 CUCV and looked new on an otherwise grimy engine. However, I found that the button that pushes the pump gear back from the cover was missing when I was resealing the engine. I sourced a new pump gear button and installed but am concerned that having run the engine without that gear might have caused some wear/damage. I’ll start cheap/easy with fuel lines and air ingress and work my way up.

 

[Spence]

Bird-Dogging electrical problems is (IMHO), like dying and going to the Eternal Damnation of Hell

For a vehicle that is so simple in general, it has proven challenging to sort out the electrical. I went through the harness once but looks like I need to give it another careful look over.

 

[Another Ahab]

For a vehicle that is so simple in general, it has proven challenging to sort out the electrical. I went through the harness once but looks like I need to give it another careful look over.

I wish to you, Spence, the pure and purposeful patience of all the angels in Heaven.

Go forth and be bold!!!

 

[latvius]

Got towed home, pretty sure it is my electric fuel pump. It's not totally dead but also not totally alive...

The tow truck driver liked the truck. Funny when I spoke to him on the phone he asked what I had, I told him a k30, he said "a blazer?". I said no a 1 ton pickup. He asked "a duelly". Nope just a pickup. He said "ain't never heard of one of them."

LOL

The term K30 sends so many for a loop.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Got towed home, pretty sure it is my electric fuel pump. It's not totally dead but also not totally alive...

The tow truck driver liked the truck. Funny when I spoke to him on the phone he asked what I had, I told him a k30, he said "a blazer?". I said no a 1 ton pickup. He asked "a duelly". Nope just a pickup. He said "ain't never heard of one of them."

LOL

The term K30 sends so many for a loop.

View attachment 959750

They usually only know current or similar branding eg 1500, 2500, 3500 since many brands use those monikers or similar to describe their trucks.

Also, when replacing your electronic pump, they make pass-through pumps that still flow when off. So you can run the mechanical pump with a little assistance or just keep the electronic pump off and only use it to prime (I do the latter).

 

[Mainsail]

Got towed home, pretty sure it is my electric fuel pump. It's not totally dead but also not totally alive...

My M1009 died returning from the mountains. Engine quit and I coasted to a stop, restarted right off and drove another five miles or so and it quit again. This cycle repeated, each cycle becoming shorter and shorter until it finally quit for good. The next day it started right up, ran a few minutes and died. I was so sure it was the fuel pump I bought another one.

It was not the fuel pump.

I turned out to be the fuel s/o solenoid in the IP, under the anti-tamper torx screws.

 

[latvius]

They usually only know current or similar branding eg 1500, 2500, 3500 since many brands use those monikers or similar to describe their trucks.

Also, when replacing your electronic pump, they make pass-through pumps that still flow when off. So you can run the mechanical pump with a little assistance or just keep the electronic pump off and only use it to prime (I do the latter).

I ditched that boat anchor a while ago. I'll just buy a 2nd pump I think since they are failry cheap and quickly replaced.

 

[latvius]

My M1009 died returning from the mountains. Engine quit and I coasted to a stop, restarted right off and drove another five miles or so and it quit again. This cycle repeated, each cycle becoming shorter and shorter until it finally quit for good. The next day it started right up, ran a few minutes and died. I was so sure it was the fuel pump I bought another one.

It was not the fuel pump.

I turned out to be the fuel s/o solenoid in the IP, under the anti-tamper torx screws.

I have a fuel pressure guage in the eng compartment so it helps me in troubleshooting but I'll keep that solenoid info locked away for future use.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

I created a post for my CUCV mods.

'Project Reliability' - A weenie focused bulletproofing

The goal with 'Project reliability' is to try and make this M1009 as bulletproof as possible - There's a ton of stuff that needs to be fixed (mostly electrical crap from previous gov't owner) so it makes more sense to bulletproof it as I go. This is one of those things where fixing it properly...

www.steelsoldiers.com

I'll be updating as I go along. I'll post links here for people that are interested in lieu of essentially double posting.

Today was this... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threa...ie-focused-bulletproofing.225702/post-2631864

 

[deank]

Been home the last 4 days fighting flu so I had some time.

Okay! Today I have proof of concept. I took my time and carefully painted the frames of the solar panels and the mounting brackets.

I have mounted them both on the roof of the workbox and routed the wiring through an existing hole with a grommet and black RTV.

The solar panel system is a Renogy 200 watt 30 amp, 12 volt starter system.

I have installed the charge controller in the electronics bay with the generator controller and the inverter. I made sure to connect a battery to the charge controller before connecting the solar panels.

I have not purchased the batteries and battery trays that I want yet. So for now I only have one lawn tractor battery in the setup. Charging at 14.0 volts.

I will mount the batteries under the back of the workbox where the spare tire used to be. That will get the batteries outside for ventilation. Harder for maintenance but better for safety and space management.

I am going to install a second USB charger with a voltmeter in the cab connected to the solar system so I can monitor the voltage.

I still have to get the buss bars, disconnect switch, battery terminals, fuse, 2 gage connectors, batteries and battery mounts.

 

[deank]

Still fighting the flu…
Not able to do anything more with the solar system until I get the batteries and mounts, so gutted the antenna base and rewired it for CB use. Then i made some support brackets to go inside the workbox to hold the sugar scoop mount to the forward bulkhead. Then mounted it all to the workbox. Of course, the antennas I have do not fit the base.

I am looking for one each of the following if anyone has some to spare.

A3018230-1 top section

A3017901-2 center section

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Started my electrical troubleshooting.

Literally less than 10 seconds in I'm already finding problems. Luckily - relatively easy fix.

'Project Reliability' - A weenie focused bulletproofing

The goal with 'Project reliability' is to try and make this M1009 as bulletproof as possible - There's a ton of stuff that needs to be fixed (mostly electrical crap from previous gov't owner) so it makes more sense to bulletproof it as I go. This is one of those things where fixing it properly...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[Another Ahab]

Started my electrical troubleshooting.

Literally less than 10 seconds in I'm already finding problems. Luckily - relatively easy fix.

'Project Reliability' - A weenie focused bulletproofing

The goal with 'Project reliability' is to try and make this M1009 as bulletproof as possible - There's a ton of stuff that needs to be fixed (mostly electrical crap from previous gov't owner) so it makes more sense to bulletproof it as I go. This is one of those things where fixing it properly...

www.steelsoldiers.com

Easy is likeable!

 

[vanaisa]

Not really "what i lately done" it must wait, when weather is slightly milder.
Last time i helped one bird wacher wis his not-wery-offroad-car. Drove home, parked under carpool. 3 weeks later (yesterday) wanted to bring some firewood from forest, started, warmed starting driving. Rear drivers side wheel is blocked. Not blocked when i reverse.
Well, i did rear brakes in summer, i hope it is probably some broken spring.
We´ll see.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

More electrical..

'Project Reliability' - A weenie focused bulletproofing

The goal with 'Project reliability' is to try and make this M1009 as bulletproof as possible - There's a ton of stuff that needs to be fixed (mostly electrical crap from previous gov't owner) so it makes more sense to bulletproof it as I go. This is one of those things where fixing it properly...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Finished up the majority of the battery/electrical distribution system.

Still need to do some odds/ends but should start working on interior shortly.

'Project Reliability' - A weenie focused bulletproofing

The goal with 'Project reliability' is to try and make this M1009 as bulletproof as possible - There's a ton of stuff that needs to be fixed (mostly electrical crap from previous gov't owner) so it makes more sense to bulletproof it as I go. This is one of those things where fixing it properly...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[TheTrainMagnifiq]

First snow experience today. Literally just plowed over and through 10 inches in an alley that had 20in mounds from people clearing their cars. Barely needed 4 low.

Those mounds might've been more than 20 inches on second thought. Stock height with regular duratracs and still effortless.