FAV #0014 Has Emerged! Chassis 1592

[Crapgame]

9th Infantry Division FAV #0014 has emerged, Chenowth Chassis 4LWC 1592, so far the 2nd lowest number known to still exist behind Mogman's #0010.

Important stuff is intact, especially the rear anti-sway bar system.


She is going to need side bins, radio shelf, wedge fuel cell, air log dual filtration system, Weber IDF 40 Carb adapter box, front light brushguards, engine/trans skid plates, belly plates, dashboard, mud flaps, 2nd battery box, and the proper 1984cc engine and 091 6 rib bus transaxle.

 

[jshull11873]

I have #13 in South Carolina

 

[Crapgame]

I got my wheel drums disassembled to see what I have to work with.
Error: She currently has 40mm brake shoes 22mm cylinder on fronts;
30mm brake shoes 19mm cylinder on rears.
My rear backer plates have the emergency brake cable fitting remnants. Is there a different brake backer plates to use without the opening for the E Brake cable system? Or just install the brake cable retainer clips to the backer plates to block as much of the opening as possible to keep the brake drum internals as clean as possible?
I got my original Chenowth factory chassis tag as clean as possible then covered with clear matte PE lacquer in preparation for appointment with FL DMV.
I built my own remote start box but made the mistake of using an LED for the gen/alt idiot light, LED doesn't draw enough for the regulator to sense.

 

[jshull11873]

Text me at (864) 384-5426. I’ll check #13 and send pics.

 

[Crapgame]

My FAV came with commercial 3x3 plate fabric trailing arms with only 2 shock mounting points. Until an original pair of FAV trailing arms turns up I'm going to have to use rectangle steel tube to copy the shock mounts on FAV arms. To my eye it looks like they used 1"x1.5" rectangle tube ends cut at 30 degrees with a 2x2 plate for the chassis rubber bumpers.
If somebody with the welded plate type trailing arms can pull some basic rims for the shock mounts I would appreciate it.

 

[Crapgame]

Set of old skool Claudes Buggies blue anodized aluminum rocker spacers, although I cannot tell if these rockers are the 1.1:1 recommended for the Schneider 272-80F Part 11005 camshaft.
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[Crapgame]

I have been having problems with my yahoo email.

I've made progress getting the brake system hardware identified, laying everything out, not adding the DOT3 until after chassis paint. I thought since I have so many fill in the blanks that I would wait on Forest Green paint until the major systems are recreated/installed.

FAV Radio Shelf/Rack
Aluminum 6061 flat bar 1/4" x 4" x 35" for the rear top angled cross plate;
3 pcs 1/4" x 2" x 21" for underside front to rear support plates;
Aluminum 6061 angle- 1/4" x 2" x 4" x 35 1/2" for the front cross plate/frame
2pcs Aluminum 6061 angle 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 21" for side frame.
2pcs Aluminum 6961 angle 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 9" for the rear vertical/angled corners
2pcs Aluminum 6061 flat bar 1/4" x 1 1/2" x 3 1/4" for front corner side fillers.
I haven't been able to verify if the top side rail pieces are 3/8" OD or 1/2" OD Round rod
I'll have extra expanded mesh left over for at least 1 additional Radio Shelf

 

[Mogman]

I have been having problems with my yahoo email.

I've made progress getting the brake system hardware identified, laying everything out, not adding the DOT3 until after chassis paint. I thought since I have so many fill in the blanks that I would wait on Forest Green paint until the major systems are recreated/installed.

FAV Radio Shelf/Rack
Aluminum 6061 flat bar 1/4" x 4" x 35" for the rear top angled cross plate;
3 pcs 1/4" x 2" x 21" for underside front to rear support plates;
Aluminum 6061 angle- 1/4" x 2" x 4" x 35 1/2" for the front cross plate/frame
2pcs Aluminum 6061 angle 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 21" for side frame.
2pcs Aluminum 6961 angle 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 9" for the rear vertical/angled corners
2pcs Aluminum 6061 flat bar 1/4" x 1 1/2" x 3 1/4" for front corner side fillers.
I haven't been able to verify if the top side rail pieces are 3/8" OD or 1/2" OD Round rod
I'll have extra expanded mesh left over for at least 1 additional Radio Shelf

Since all my brake/clutch components are new/rebuilt I went ahead and used DOT5

 

[Crapgame]

Since all my brake/clutch components are new/rebuilt I went ahead and used DOT5

When I googled Girling master brake cylinder one of the top results stated DOT3. My 3 Girlings are either NOS or recent rebuilds.

I have my CNC Clutch slave cylinder line running under the rear torsion tube running parallel with L&R cutting brake lines.


I am not getting good results using a wood block with 3/16" through hole as a straightener tool.

I have 10mm flare nuts for the brake line integration with the VW compatible front & rear brake hoses. Speaking of which, should i be using hard lines from the wheel cylinders to the fixed mounting brackets the U Clips are used for?

 

[Mogman]

When I googled Girling master brake cylinder one of the top results stated DOT3. My 3 Girlings are either NOS or recent rebuilds.

I have my CNC Clutch slave cylinder line running under the rear torsion tube running parallel with L&R cutting brake lines.
View attachment 961819

I am not getting good results using a wood block with 3/16" through hole as a straightener tool.

I have 10mm flare nuts for the brake line integration with the VW compatible front & rear brake hoses. Speaking of which, should i be using hard lines from the wheel cylinders to the fixed mounting brackets the U Clips are used for?

DOT 3 will be fine, DOT 5 can be used in any application that is new or rebuilt (it does not mix well with DOT 3) except systems with anti lock brakes.
DOT 5 is hydrophobic, meaning it does not absorb water, which helps prevent corrosion in brake systems, especially those with aluminum components.

 

[Crapgame]

NEAL Cutting Brake: NEAL/CNC rebuild components unobtanium. A few responses on existing VW/Buggy threads say the other mfg rebuild kit components are not working on the NEAL/CNC parts, specifically the cup seals were mentioned. I bought some AN6226-4 0.625" OD 0.3125" ID cup seals to try to make the original NEAL piston work. (Hopefully the current Mil-Spec revision calls for the material to be resistant to silicone/mineral spirits/petro chemicals)


I have the hydraulics roughed in. I'm having good results annealing the cut ends of the 3/16" brake tubing with propane torch before crimping with the flaring tool kit. I do have to order another 1/8" MPT to 3/8-16 IFF 45 degree elbow fitting for the NEAL top cylinder to driver side wheel cylinder output port. As I ID the hydraulic system components I'm making notes in the FAV (-24P) manual

For my Fronts, I have the 3/8-24 IFF Tee mocked up, then hard lines to the driver side & curb side brake line mount tabs with an M10-1.0 3/16" ID nut to interface with the front wheel cylinder hoses? (braided black stainless) or VW metric hard lines? Roger hooked me up with some extra brake system parts including 2 black rubber front brake cylinder hoses and a pair NIW brake shoes

 

[Crapgame]

Eventually I may have to try to recreate the Chenowth-mfg FAV Beam. The 2" OD 0.12" chrome-moly DOM is a given, 5.25" vertical spacing center to center. We know the Wright R&P Mount is about 7" wide, the 4 VW Beam Adjusters are welded in either in line with the R&P bracket edges or at least 5mm 1/4" outboard of it. (Mogman's original pic)


So I will be needing dimensions off an original FAV Beam, from the channel stock used to make the beam adjusters to the 2 vertical spacers on the back side. (Mogman's original pic)



The beam adjuster screw guard looks like 1.25" wide by 0.12" wall or whatever 14ga rectangle or square tube was used.

The vertical connectors on the beam backside look like 1.25" wide 0.12"/14ga wall, by about 5.5" long, each connector overlapping each tube by about 0.5", radius cut


And the vertical offset for the shock towers:

 

[Crapgame]

Another major project are the rear trailing arms, my chassis came with some form of off the shelf 2 shock boxed 3x3 trailing arms:

These have 2 vertical 1/4" plates with only 2 shock lugs. I am going to have to trim off some of the spring plate top surface, then weld on a piece of rectangle tube, cap the ends and drill/weld in 3 shock mount lugs.
Then I'm going to need the dimensions for the rectangle tube used for the shock mounts on the welded plate boxed type FAV trailing arms, as well as the square bump stop plate at the rear end (Mogman's original pic) It looks like 1" x 1.5" 0.12" wall rectangle tube but could also be 1.25" x 2" rectangle.

 

[Crapgame]

An extra link pin beam was included when I bought 0014. The beam currently on 0014 is an extra wide Warrior type adjustable beam.
I hope I can sell this Warrior type beam off to recup some $ towards the FAV.

The extra T1 beam was already altered by having the top shock mount lugs cut off the towers. As an Interim solution I am.going to try cutting the center Torsion Bar Grub Screw bushing section out of the tubes then have an 11in long 2" OD DOM section TIGged in to push the original roller bearing/micarta bushing ends out to the correct FAV "9.25"-Over"configuration. I'll drill out then slot the openings for the 4 beam adjuster grub screws, weld on the rectangular tube guards, etc,, Empi R&P bracket etc.
I found a guy in GA who laser cuts shock tower blanks, hopefully I can get the dimensions needed to have him cut a couple pair of 1/4" plate shock tower blanks, use shop press to bend the tops out the correct offset.
I was thinking about trying the Latest Rage 430005-10 10" Coil Over shock towers but the plates are straight no offset, they already have the gusset rib welded to the inside edges, seems too much additional trouble to cut off the gussets, bend the offset, then weld in a new gusset rib plate. And they are more than 2x cost of the GA laser cut blanks

Then if I can manage to get the altered T1 beam into FAV 9.25"-Over configuration I'll try it one more time using 1 PC 2" OD 0.12" wall chrome moly DOM for one of the last improvements.