Recent content by GMVguy

Got em installed and good to go. As DREDnot described above, it’s a goofy design. Rear lip of condenser rests on the ledge of the brackets. Only a matter of time before it slips off, or the bracket breaks again. Here’s a pic showing the mounting bolts. Note the new bracket, compared to what’s...

Getting this M1165A1 REV Truck raised from the dead and on the first test drive, it ran pretty rough (see attached videos). Injection Pump was replaced and timed to run smooth at idle. Injectors and all Glow Plugs are new. I do notice the exhaust leak, but it seems to be running rough beyond...

Right on, thank you sir.

The bolts (C and D) from your diagram are installed, so I took off the grille and looked up in there. Looks like the bracket broke off? See pic. If so, is Item 1 in Diagram 281A in the referenced TM screenshot above correct? thanks all!

Thanks. I saw that in the TM, but believe that bracket is for the front side, which is in place. The rear (angled) side is what's loose. I will take another look for bolt holes from the top.

Man I hope so. Will disassemble it a bit more to see where those might attach. Can't find it in the TMs...

The rear condenser units on my M1165A1 are loose, not being held up by any bracket. Anyone know what parts are missing to secure it? Here's a video of the issue.

I believe that's how the big restoration companies do it, but they have equipment to inject and compress the layers under high heat & pressure. If I could find the equipment and materials to do it myself, I would try it.

Installed all new turn light bulbs and they still don’t ring out. I’m taking a lead from a hot (24v) source and attaching it to the unknown wires one by one and checking all corners of the truck. I’m sure I’m missing something simple here, but just can’t identify it.

Tail lights work, as do all running lights. Don't see any cut wires. Wondering if my "ringing-out" test needs something else connected for it to work, such as one of the other wires being grounded, etc.

Well, I narrowed down the wires that go to the hazard flasher (325 A & B) and light switch (22A and 467B, both of which get 24V when Run switch on). I then connected a lead to 24v and turned the light switch on, touching the 24v lead to each of the remaining unidentified wires. No lamp unit bulb...

Makes sense, thanks. Do you know where the "Two-into-one" wires go? That would narrow a couple down...

In case it helps anyone.... I was able to replace the broken squirrel cage with this.(Perfect match) https://www.tacbusparts.com/BW-1-Blower-wheel-3-1-4-x-3-3-4

Well, I narrowed the cut wires down to the 9 wires (two turn into one for some reason) to the Turn Signal (Directional Indicator) Switch. After studying the Wiring Schematics, I can't see where each wire goes. I checked voltage, and there is one wire that has 24VDC. Is there a way to identify...

Removed the rear evaporator and see it's a broken squirrel cage that's rattling around... reducing the airflow as well. Found this.... wondering if it'll adapt to fit...