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If it's any consolation, I had this crack show up on #2 cylinder and was quoted way more than the block was worth. Grind out and refill, check cylinder to make sure it's not out of round, if so, bore and sleeve, make sure other cylinder isn't out of round. Check line bore to make sure block...

Both of mine leak after rebuilding lol, granted I haven't gone back over and checked for loose fasteners yet.

Well that sucks the lens is now toast. Sure it can be swapped out, but it's still just another thing to do lol.

Is that lens melted then, is that what I'm looking at?

A few angles of my setup.

Initially, I swapped in a set of standard parking lights into the grille. I've since picked up a set of b/o lights and moved the parking lights. I wanted to keep turn signals up front because I don't trust other drivers to begin with and didn't want to decrease my chances of staying safe in this...

I have an aftermarket tank that was in my '52A1 and the mounting ring wasn't clocked correct in it and the PO had not only left the filter off the pick up, but took the float arm off the sending unit because it would have been hitting the front of the tank. You can see in the second pic where...

I was always going to get a 12-24V converter so I could use a standard 24V sending unit in place to a 12V gauge.

Yes, they all should have that baffle. I've refurbished a few of them and it's been in every one. What I have done in the case of the sending unit is to either re-orient the ring (labor intensive) or drill/tap new holes to orient the ring the correct direction. If you have any questions, give...

Can't say I would have made the connection (no pun intended) on the stainless fasteners.

It'll take it, I went out a month-ish ago and drove for an hour and a half straight, albeit at varying speeds, but was on the highway a good portion of the time. There's no reason you can't do a 50 mph drive for an extended amount of time. Yes, It'll howl being geared so high, but it wouldn't be...

Wait until you get side curtains and doors! Wait, you're in CA, you won't need those. 🤣

Is there something specific you're trying to identify?

I'll pull it out on the initial crank until it catches and then push it back in. It's designed to need the choke for the vacuum to pull the fuel .

Never used the hand throttle. On a cold start I'll pull the choke until it burps to life and jam the choke open and be giving it a little gas at the same time. Never needed the choke once it's warmed up.

Had a slight "scare" moment over the weekend with the '53. On the drive to an event early Saturday morning, the engine began losing power and had a wicked miss. Limped it to the event location without it becoming worse. Later in the day, I got a chance to poke around the engine and determined at...

Are you on FB? More specifically, there's a group titled M38/M38A1. I did a quick search and came up with a thread that Wes Knettle commented on, and since he's the closest thing to the Bible, I saved the pics of his replies. If you're not, shoot me a message and I'll send you the TM pages...

My '52 is #22040 DOD of 9/52. Probably about a month between the builds.

If you can get your hands on a decent power washer, those can strip paint as well. Granted, that old single stage paint can be more stubborn than today's thinner paints.

Now let's throw yellow and white in to the CD mix! I've got these on another thread in here somewhere. This is a '55 I got to do some work on last year. Really wanted to keep this one once I heard the intended plan for it.