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IIRC they were new trucks with just a few converted prototype/test beds, but cant open your link and coming up empty on any XM35 searches right now…

Do you have a pic of the front end or the id tag? Could be a rare XM truck maybe???

But don’t lay the tank on its side or any other orientation than the way it is now. You will introduce air and starve the pump.

Yes you can relocate it, and no it won’t affect performance. Just don’t restrict the suction line, these vane pumps do not like pulling a vacuum. IE don’t kink or use smaller ID hoses.

I have the them on a trailer that I tested empty, very fast behind my pickup. I run sane speeds at around 6k on 1 axle behind the 5 ton. Only about 24psi to get the entire contact patch on the road at that weight, and they run just a tad warmer than the truck tires.

It’s been a long time but I think the Husky is around 20k on two axles. The issue is the speed and pressure rating translates to somewhere around 35psi at 35mph IIRC. They are designed to run slow and low with a big footprint to pass over mines with a happy ending.

Michelin Defenders do extremely well in the snow for a long lasting street tire. General Grabbers are great all around, economical all terrain. Interco TrXus M/T do amazingly well in the snow for a mud tire.

Maybe @fuzzytoaster knows of somebody local that could actually it, so hopefully a scraper doesn’t come along and snatch it up. Assuming this is free, might want to post it in the pay it forward section.

Yep, haven’t been unable to access for the site for the better part of a week. Tapatalk on my Iphone is the only way I have accessed the site for probably 10 years now. Don’t know about it being a pay app now…

There are most likely valve cores installed in the wheels, outboard valve stems, behind the ctis wheel cylinder hose. This will not allow the CTIS to function or air pressure to flow back to the wheel valve. As ericp351 said, check and fill air pressure from the inside valve stem.

The race must have spun and perfectly friction welded itself to the spindle. It maybe imposable to cleanly remove without finding someone with a lathe big enough to chuck the axle in and cut it off. Or maybe someone here has a good axle laying around…

And that explains why your alternator caught fire, your 12v should be pulled from the other battery with the negative disconnected that way.

This theory makes no sense, even if it did the alternator would only have produced as much power as it could without harming itself. These batteries have enormous potential that most likely caused the fire if they were not disconnected properly and completely while the starter was stuck on...

Theres a lot of info on the RV forums about the exhaust brakes. IIRC they usually go to a heavier exhaust valve spring as well when adding the exhaust brake.

A little soapy water to soak in around the bead and tire will “usually” drop right off with several good wack’s from sledge hammer around the circumference of the tire bead with the wheel blocked up off the floor. I have a video I made that I should be able to text you if you PM me a phone number.

Both are some sort of MRAP wheels, my best WAG is the tan wheel is from a husky, the bead contour on the black one looks slightly different but may just be the photo.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/ever-see-inside-the-protective-control-box.113634/ Check out post #21 by @cwc and see if thats what you looking for? Lots of other good stuff spread throughout that thread as well.

Thanks Dave! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don’t forget you need stud piloted. They are getting harder to find these days…

Sorry I didn’t get back sooner, I think Todd pretty well has it covered and I know nothing about the RV aspect, but suspect they want to see proof of certain RV fixtures installed that are somewhere in “their rules”. I would guess something along the lines of a bed and bathroom facilities??? My...