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It does unbolt. 4 of the usual suspects it appears from the TM. The current project is up on an A3 trailer, so I should have reasonable access to the underside. I can pull the anti mouse mesh easily enough. Looking in from the top it doesn't appear the plate will come out from under the...

I'm pretty sure I've seen this discussed briefly in the past, but I sure can't find the right search string... The foam pad in the bottom of the 802 I'm working on is soaked with fuel, and oil, and it's rotting apart. I can pretty much identify what kind of foam to use, but it looks like it is...

Cook the moisture out of it with a torch or heat gun, then hose the hinge down with oil. I would think it would retain enough to keep the water out of the barrel/pin. The mud flap should take care of it though.

No leaking overnight! Can't progress on the fuel system, so I guess it was time to clean up some more electrical, and some panels... First thing I did was install the fuel fill neck, and cap. That went fine. Involved trimming some crazy long hose clamps that the unit came with. I really...

Jan 31... Temps really won't relent this year. I've now got a second propane heater by repairing the original. 105,000 btu if they're running wide open. Much better... I tried to work on it yesterday, but I didn't get the heat running earlier enough, plus my soul just wasn't feeling it...

I thought I'd take a look at the post, it never hurts to refresh good towing habits... Followed the link, and what greeted me is a bad AI generated photo at the top of the article. That was enough for me. How much faith are you going to have in the article when the author (if there is an...

Thanks. Grew up in Wayne. Vinni's was the pizza of choice for my family. Haven't been back since I sold my folks place in 2022... That book looks like a seriously handy piece of lit if you have vintage engines to play with... May have to get one to put on the shelf.

Just had to scratch this itch... https://www.ebay.com/itm/313662596322

Actually, no it isn't a Motor's as far as I can tell from the few I have. They do cover "stock engines", but they're always in the back of the truck books giving them high page numbers... Nothing noted on this brand... Probably have to find something similar that covers smaller engines.

The layout, and text on that page look an awful lot like you find in Motor's Manuals. I'll have to take a look at the ones I have hanging around.

I runt Fumoto's on everything I can. They are fabulous as oil drains. Other than checking Fumoto's page to make sure they're ok for diesel, I wouldn't be concerned. I would however get the kind with a hose barb connection so you can just shove a hose on it when you want to use it in case...

That tank looks great in that location. I'd be curious how much tongue weight you have with the tank full vs empty. 80 gallons of diesel is around 560#. I don't think you're going to tip the unit backwards with an 803a up front, but it could be an awfully heavy tongue when it's empty...

Hate to pay that, but you really wouldn't want to see the price of having them made... You could always move the gen forward on the trailer, and mount a truck saddle tank or a transfer tank on the rear.

It's just an L-shaped pin on a chain. Nothing exotic. The L portion engages that cutout tab to keep it from backing out. Any pin that fits would be fine, but I'd want some kind of retaining pin to keep from loosing it if you don't get the right L-shape..

Depending on what you need to come out with, you might come out of the housing just above where you indicated on the surface running front to back, just below the frequency adjustment. That gives it a little protection from getting bumped in to, and also it's under the overhang so, a little...

I just found similar on my 802a... Some of the terminal strips look like they've been sitting at the bottom of a lake, and others are almost pristine. Under the screw heads was ok for mine, but it all got a good hosing of DeOxit regardless.

If you feel there is enough thread engagement currently, I'd probably just get a couple shorter bolts. Washers would work, but it would bother the OCD portion of my brain...

That seal lives inside the tank. It isn't like the banjo fitting seals. It is very similar to this McMaster part. Can't speak to it being exact, but that's the same concept. https://www.mcmaster.com/94154A810/ I've got the version with the locating groove inbound. That design is what I had...

That makes sense. Something is just sucking in a little moisture, and then dries out with the power flowing through it. My preference would be to keep it OEM if for no other reason than the schematics, and troubleshooting info would be right. In addition, I really don't want cheap gages...

As long as it's putting out 60ish +/- 1 or so I'm not going to bother with it. The gage is nice as a reference, but for most of the use it see, it doesn't matter, the heater will run just fine for now. The Fluke is all knowing, and I trust it.