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So, is it common for the combo vacuum fuel pump to spring an oil leak at the vacuum diaphragm? Or would mine just have loose screws? yea, btw, I know I have a loose screw 🤣

Ok

Fortunately I found someone with cover plates on eBay, so I didn't have to replace the whole light assembly.

Yes, and the bulb was turned white by the heat retained. I probably should have taken more photos. I think these are 24 volt housings that someone put 12 volt bulbs into. 24 volt bulbs might be smaller.

So previous owner installed bulbs in the tail lights that are too big. Two days later, a complete replacement of bulbs and a new turn signal switch and everything works again.

DeetFreek I did the same thing. Installation complete! The magnets are strong and I doubt that these will fall off the frame. Not as high as the finders, but no scratching of the paint and plenty bright.

so I read an article in History in Motion magazine by the Military Vehicle Preservation Association about a guy making a third break light for safety when driving on the public roads. so I decided to make some front turn signal lights from the CJ parking lights I removed to install blackout...

I seem to have fixed it by banging the tank with a “Chevy wrench” (aka mallet). I guess my mod of the floaty arm works but it got stuck between install and filling the tank. here to old school whack it a couple times.

Thanks DeetFreek. That completely clears up my understanding of the issue. Looks like I might be doing some drilling in the near future. Darn 12 volt crap....

Has anyone run across a fuel tank on/for an M38A1 that has a baffle going passenger side to driver side in it? I was replacing the fuel sending unit (12 volt aftermarket) and it hits this baffle at 1/2 tank level. I looked for tank photos and none seem to show a baffle. And I bent the sending...

Ok, owner before me loves stainless steel nuts and bolts. Less rust, Ok. However, if you screw the fuel sending unit down with non-magnetic hardware, there's no ground to anything. Just figured that out today. :LOL: Oh, and noted the tank s almost dry. :oops: I've been running around every so...

Just received a winter canvas top for my M38A1. Looks so much better than just open with no top.

I funky got a period canvas top from WeeBee Webbing for my M38A1 Gunny Got a New Cover

Picked up and installed the correct tires and rims on my M38A1. Thanks to #ZiggyO for the rims. Lucas Classic Tires in Long Beach for the rubber. Willy’s Jeep Parts for the lug nuts. And Central Brake & Tire in Anaheim for the mount job.

thanks, makes sense.

That's what I'm thinking of doing, only paint it all green to look some what original.

Ok, it's bad enough this shows either/or generator/alternator, but why do so many wires attach to the ammeter (I'm assuming the "A" in the circle at the right is the ammeter)? This is from https://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/electronics-and-wiring/12-volt.html

Markings donehave correct wheels, tires orderedmade a little 12 volt mod Got wiper motors

So why can’t I find a diagram that says connect the negative post to the battery and the positive post to XXXXXX? They all show it connected to the solenoid and to the lights and coil?!?!??

3 3/8” across by 1 3/4” vertical