Search results

A question... Are you planning on making it look more like a M38? A different windshield should be easy enough... What else needs to be done? Have fun!

I do appreciate your help. I received an email and now that is in "normal" mode, it us working. It is frustrating... I get the Amazon issue, but at the end of the day, my tablet is good with everyone except Cloudflare..so that does go back to Cloudflare. If the tablet was not working with...

I can’t get ahold of Cloudflare. You talk with Amazon and this is wee above the typical Help person’s pay grade. Meanwhile, I’m now locked out of 1800petmeds as well. It’s not enough to say “it’s the machine…Amazon and Silk are two legitimate well known out fits, it’s not like I’m on some third...

A few weeks ago I tried to log in like I have for years. instead of logging on, I got a page from Cloudflare security saying they were verifying my device. i hit “I am human” and the page refreshed…again and again. I trouble shooted my device and made sure all the settings were correct. An...

Charlie, the man who restored my CJ-5 in Texas almost 30 years ago, taught me my first lesson about restoring Jeeps. "The hardest part is undoing past owner's "improvements". He was thrilled when I handed him a 20 year old, unmodified truck.

UPDATE: I use full (out) choke and a bit of hand throttle. I rapidly reduce the choke and use throttle as needed. Works every time now. Also, I start it more frequently, on the assumption that leaving it too long isn't a good idea.

A great article. Probably the best of its type I've seen in my brief time reading History in Motion. While the author developed the mod for his WWII Jeep, our M38/M38A1/M170s aren't oven endowed with large brake lights. Though at 4", I believe they are larger and brighter than those on MB/GPWs...

Don't laugh... I really enjoy my M38A1. My one complaint us in its stock form, I'm really limited to where I can take it. Most notably, I can't take it to some nearby events because I do no want to flog it it at its top speed for extended periods on hi ways. So, avoiding some barbaric engine...

Imgoldstein... You probably won't receive a reply from the original poster. Did you note the date of this thread? A lot of new members make that mistake...

The new coil is a used American unit, but checked. The fuel supply was checked during the diagnosis before we rebuilt the distributor and coil. Since it seems to flood (judging by the smell), I think it's getting fuel. The plugs are old but seem to be okay. The lack of 24v plugs is a bit...

Started great yesterday. Today it's cooler with light rain, the thing wouldn't start. With choke and a bit of throttle it ran for 5 seconds, but wouldn't restart without starter fluid. Once started, it runs fine. Recently rebuilt distributor. I'm losing hope.

DeetFreek Thanks, that makes sense. One additional thing I've noticed... This is my first vehicle with a starter pedal. More than once, I've removed my foot a second too soon...just as it starts to catch...which preempts what would otherwise be a successful start sequence. I guess I'm afraid...

Thanks. I'm still at the stage of trying to figure out if it is: -normal (they ALL do that) -cold blooded -Or if something is wrong. Mine apparently had a weak coil, so every time I tried to start it, it flooded.

When you say "pull the choke", do you mean push it in or pull it out? I have always been told to have it full out at the beginning of the sequence, but now that you mention it, slowly pulling it out makes sense as well.

Since its restoration two years ago (time flies!) my M38A1 has been a bear to start. The mechanics were gone over during its restoration, the engine was fresh but most everything was looked at and repaired or refurbished as necessary. Finally, in June it got so bad that attempting to start it...

Perhaps I've led a sheltered life, but I've never seen a setup like that.

Yes, that is real old school. And it works with 24v. I have friends who use sticks when refueling their antique airplanes.

That is probably what I need (if it 24volt) but sadly, I'm trying to keep the Jeep stock. :)

My issue (or trouble) is mine is still 24 volt and I want the correct OEM units. So the issue is a combination of getting correct grounds and trusting ancient gauges work.

That's just it, I don't know how accurate ANY would be 70 years on... Maybe it is as good as its going to get without All new aftermarket gauges...which I don't want. Why doesn't someone make new gauges that look correct?