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1976 US Air Force Chevrolet P20 5.7L Step Van

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
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Laramie County, Wyoming
I think it would look silly in 383 green, but think the glossy OD they used during the Vietnam War would look great.

I can see the difference between UPS Brown and that green but most could not. Most wouldn’t care about it either way.

Also want to preserve its AF heritage, but I wasn’t in that branch.
I thing my Army Aviator Wings would melt if I did that.

Time will tell
It’s OK
$523??!!??? o_O
Outstanding!!

We did have some green ones on Marine bases, semi-gloss Marine Green with yellow markings. I don't remember seeing them on the flightline though. We always felt pampered if we flew into an Air Force facility - they'd send one of those vans or something similar to pick us up from the aircraft. On our own base, you'd figure out where your helo was parked and take off walking!

Cheers
I remember them as well. I didn’t see an expeditor truck on a flight line until I joined the Air Force. While in the Marines, I was stationed at NAS Alameda but spent many a TAD (TDY in AF speak) to Tustin, Yuma and the all time favorite, 29 Stumps. It was always park where you were told and be prepared for a really long walk. At Tustin it was a really long, long, long walk from the bird (CH-53A) to the hangar.
 

Tinstar

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Installed the new 30 gallon fuel tank today.
Was NOT fun.
Would have been a breeze with two people.

I coated the sending unit lock ring area with grease.
Looks horrible but stays put and keeps moisture and dirt out. Yes I know it will attract dirt but only on the surface.

The fuel vent is exactly what was on it from the factory. Simple but works. I used a factory GM Vent. Lots of cheap vents out there.
5/16” hose is the size that fits the vent.
3/8” for the fuel pickup.

I wanted to use GM spring hose clamps but couldn’t find any locally in time.
I did use Ideal worm clamps.
Made in USA.

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The new fuel fill hose doesn’t line up exactly so I will deal with that today.

I installed a Wix fuel filter before the fuel pump to keep the pump clean.
Have not added fuel yet but all the lines are hooked up.
Fuel gauge went from always reading full to showing empty.

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No one showed a sending unit for this P20, but this one works perfectly.
This part number is actually for a 1976 K20 passenger side fuel tank. Same Ohms as the original. 90 ohms I believe.

Also installed new rear door handle.
Will attack the roof edge and get that sealed up this week.

Brakes are next.
New proportion valve arrived today.
Rest of rear brake shoes and brake cylinders are still enroute.

Slowly checking off the to-do items.
 

Tinstar

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Fuel tank is officially 100% installed and fuel gauge finally works.

That fuel fill hose I bought fought tooth and nail being installed at the right angle.
Will trim off excess butyl tape tomorrow.

The new Gates fuel cap did not fit,
So had to use the lock gas cap that was on it originally until I can find one that fits.

No more fuel bomb on the front bumper!!
Very happy about that.


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Tinstar

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Installed new brake proportioning valve.
Didn’t make much of a difference yet and will really notice when rest of brake parts arrive and are installed.
Took apart old one and some rust and debris were inside everything.
Also installed the engine ground cable.

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Had some good weather and needed to seal up the roof.
Rust bubbles under paint were worse than I expected.
Once scraped off, it revealed lots of small holes in roof.
Used a needle air tool and uncovered even more. Some areas I would’ve blown right through and made things worse so attachment was used sparingly.
All of the rust spots were on the passenger side that was always in the shade while sitting at the VFD facility for years.
Treated all the roof seams and the rust spots with Ospho rust converter and followed that up with additional thicker rust converter, then primer. Allowed all to fully dry and cook a bit in the sun.

Used Mil-Spec Dow-3145 adhesive/sealant and sealed roof perimeter. Then attacked all the holes with 3145.
On the larger holes I just used coins to give the sealant some extra strength. Looks stupid but works great.



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I am not a paint and body guy obviously, but I do know how to properly fix this.
Just not going to do that now since that will require the interior gutted a bit.

Like I said earlier, this is not a complete restoration, just getting it as dry and as reliable as possible and changing the color this summer.

I did drive it around the dirt roads a bit.
5 miles or so.
VERY loud inside and plenty of power.
It is a LOT of fun to drive with the doors locked back.
 

Tinstar

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Location
East Edmond, Oklahoma
Not a lot of work done since weather hasn’t cooperated much.

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But I can say that I officially have driven the Step Van in the snow. All 40 feet

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Can you tell what my 23 year old Daughters favorite movie is?? She made some picture adjustments.

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She’s making this setup out of poster board and paint.


Most of the brake parts have arrived. Still waiting on rear brake spring kit and one adjuster.

She fires right up no matter the temperature.
 

Tinstar

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Location
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Quite a bit of work done these last few weeks.

New front brakes, including brand new calipers, installed.
New AC Delco brake lines installed. The old brake lines were swelled almost completely shut.
The front brake line junction block was also completely blocked with crud. Cleaned that out and flushed lines and flow is normal again.
Front wheel bearings looked good, regreased and reinstalled.
Also installed my two extra 16" CUCV wheels on the front, doing away with the obsolete 16.5 wheels.
Will swap the rears when I do the rear brakes.
Step Van stops now with authority. Will be even better when the rear brakes are replaced.

Great thing about a Step Van, is that you have room inside for rebuilding a carburetor.
The original carb had been rebuilt before and was way past due for another.
Extremely dirty, but nothing clogged.
Step Van has been starting just fine, but the choke was staying on too long and really choking the engine right after startup.
It took a couple of minutes to warm up before it ran normal.
Adjusting the choke didn't help.
Replaced the choke vacuum actuator and what a difference it made. Starts even better and doesn't run horrible after startup any longer.
Throttle shaft bushings need replaced. They are leaking a bit, causing a vacuum leak. Not bad, but it's there.
Also removed and cleaned the choke thermostat. It had mice remnants and dirt debris in the coil. It's working like it should again.
Will be sending Rochester carburetor out for a professional rebuild in the coming weeks.
I know I could just get a Edelbrock or Holley replacement, but want to keep the original one.

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Removed the heater core and cleaned it.
Internally it looked brand new, no leaks.
Cleaned the fins and cleaned up and reattached the hose connections.
They look rough but are fine.
The heater core adjusting valve is impossible to find, so I cleaned it up internally and marked it for on and off.
Can be opened or closed using pliers. Not ideal but will work.
Cleaned the airbox and sprayed fluid film inside to prevent additional corrosion.
Reinstalled Heater Core and attached hoses. Now I have HEAT. Works really well.

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I did get all the lights working early on, except one thing.
The brake lights.
Running lights work, turn signals work, emergency lights work.
Had power at the switch and it was adjusted properly.
Fuse good.
Spent an hour underneath checking every inch of wire from front to back, Wires were good.
Even removed firewall connection and cleaned that. No change.
Grounds were physically cleaned and reattached.
Was going to remove the fuse box under the dash and needed to move some connectors from the steering column.
Had already looked at these and sprayed cleaner on them.
Once the zip ties were cut and I actually moved these connectors much more than before, I noticed one wire pulled out a bit further than the rest.
It was loose and I expanded the clips on the wires metal connector and reinstalled the wire in the connector housing.
That was it. I now have brake lights. What a RELIEF.


Step Van is running very well and starts right up and runs great.
Lots of little things done, like fixing the door frame seals that had become loose with age.
Changed the oil and filter again, it really needed it once the internals were getting cleaned again.
Adjusted headlights, made a magnetic cup holder, cleaned up interior a bit more, cleaned steering wheel (it was REALLY gross), oiled the door tracks again, installed missing rear bumper frame bolts, etc.


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I still need to do the rear brakes, change rear differential oil, and get the driveshaft rebuilt.
Need window gaskets and will be checking into that as it gets warmer.
Have been driving it around a bit and have put almost 30 miles on it.
Gets to 60 no problem, even though it's a bit scary driving it at that speed on country roads.
I will be adding a VDO or AutoMeter tachometer. Hate not knowing what the engine speed is.
I did add American Flags on the top rear of the sides.
I also did this years ago on my two enclosed cargo trailers and travel trailer. They will not work on my Airstream due to the curves.

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She's not pretty, but slowly getting the kinks and issues worked out.
 
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