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5 ton crew build

CrappiePoint

Active member
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155
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Location
Arkansas
Well guys I finally got all the rot pulled off, cross joists painted and ready to put the new floor in. I had to cut the door supports flush with the cab inner tube because of the rust. I added in a piece of angle 2” 14 ga angle for the floor to sit on and when I get the floor in I will add another on top to sandwich it in and strengthen the lateral load. When I tie the top together this will help as well. There aren’t enough curse words to express the effort involved in removing spot welds!!! Finally laying some floor tomorrow!!
 

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th3v3rn

Member
29
31
13
Location
Utah
Well guys I finally got all the rot pulled off, cross joists painted and ready to put the new floor in. I had to cut the door supports flush with the cab inner tube because of the rust. I added in a piece of angle 2” 14 ga angle for the floor to sit on and when I get the floor in I will add another on top to sandwich it in and strengthen the later load. When I tie the top together this will help as well. There aren’t enough curse words to express the effort involved in removing spot welds!!! Finally laying some floor tomorrow!!
Are you planning on welding from the underside or plug welding through the the top of the floor?
 

CrappiePoint

Active member
55
155
33
Location
Arkansas
Sorry bout the delay I have been cutting the door jambs off the donor cab and cutting them up. There are some tricky measurements reusing the door jambs so there has been lots of “butt scratching” to coin a phrase. I will follow up with the solutions and some detailed pics in a couple of days. It’s going to be pretty cool tho.
 

CrappiePoint

Active member
55
155
33
Location
Arkansas
Tough sledding the last couple of days, but I did get the first piece of floor welded in. Since my harbor freight hole punch won’t punch 14ga I had to get creative with the drill press. I have the first door jamb sitting up there to see where I will land the opening. I added almost a foot and a half to the length of the rear section to “ make way” for something cool. More to come
 

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th3v3rn

Member
29
31
13
Location
Utah
Tough sledding the last couple of days, but I did get the first piece of floor welded in. Since my harbor freight hole punch won’t punch 14ga I had to get creative with the drill press. I have the first door jamb sitting up there to see where I will land the opening. I added almost a foot and a half to the length of the rear section to “ make way” for something cool. More to come
Is that a steelit type paint that is weldable? Was thinking it was just Rust-Oleum.

Finally got the rear cab off. That was frustrating. Having steel delivered tomorrow. Cross member should be here Friday.
 

CrappiePoint

Active member
55
155
33
Location
Arkansas
Good eye. The sides are regular primer and the middle will be weld thru. The local automotive stores did not have any so the spots were drilled thru the 14ga into the crossmembers. I went to the paint store and got weld thru. Yes that back wall is hard to get off without tearing it up.
 
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Bill Nutting

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
599
1,380
93
Location
Chesterfield, Mi.
I love what you’re doing. I would settle for adding 6 inches to my cab. I squeezed air ride seats in mine. They fit but there is very little clearance behind the seats. Can anyone explain to me why these cabs are so small?
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Staff member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
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Location
Charlotte NC
I love what you’re doing. I would settle for adding 6 inches to my cab. I squeezed air ride seats in mine. They fit but there is very little clearance behind the seats. Can anyone explain to me why these cabs are so small?
.
Wirey, Slim, 18/19 year olds.
They haven't grown up and spread out like the rest of us... :cool:
 
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