Broken Head Stud Removal

[USN_Green_Addict]

Today started out great, NOS heads, new style head gasket, lubed the cylinder walls, sand blasted the exhaust manifold inside and out, had new hoses, washed all the aluminum parts, everything cleaned up good. Used my new digital torque wrench. the rear side was going smooth, weather was awesome, I even got the head bolt wrench with the airforce accountibility sticker on it. the right side started going easy untill the final torque of 157ft/lbs, the torque value was at 145, i was pulling slowly not jerking the wrench. I heard the pop and my heart sank. it was the bolt under the injector.

What is reccomended method to get the broken stud out? Also who carries these bolts, I think I should replace all so I dont have to experience this again.

 

[dmetalmiki]

buy a drill that (WILL) drill "anything".
Carefully Center pop the broken stud.
drill out / down the stud.
Tap the block thread / use a stud removal tool.
There are stud bolt removal sets.
next best crafty way.
the way I do it is hard to detail,
So here is someone using the same 'Trick'.

- YouTube

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www.youtube.com

 

[Guyfang]

Welcome back Partner!

 

[sbgarage]

I hate when that happens

 

[87cr250r]

If it's not bottomed out in the hole (it shouldn't be) the remains will be loose and should unscrew by hand. If you can't put fingers on it drill through the center and use an EZ Out. Bolts up to and including grade 8 drill fairly easily.

Use real drill bits. You can't buy real drill bits at the hardware store. Buy made in USA. McMaster sells mostly Chicago-Latrobe and Precision Twist.

You don't need cobalt. Don't waste your money on it.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

If it's a through hole and there is a risk of the bolt running into the water jacket you should use a left handed bit. If it's not a through hole a left handed bit is not necessary

 

[marchplumber]

buy a drill that (WILL) drill "anything".
Carefully Center pop the broken stud.
drill out / down the stud.
Tap the block thread / use a stud removal tool.
There are stud bolt removal sets.
next best crafty way.
the way I do it is hard to detail,
So here is someone using the same 'Trick'.

- YouTube

Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.

www.youtube.com

Welcome back! ....fill us in?

I never used paper/card paper as a shield spacer....always something to learn.

 

[WillWagner]

Spray some good penetrating oil on it and let it sit. After a bit of time, get a punch and give it a couple good taps, re apply the penetrant then, you might get lucky, use a center punch or a small chisel and try and un screw it. If you drill it, stay centered, when the hole is drilled off center, the remover that is pushed into the drilled hole can cause the thin side to push into the threads making it tougher to remove. If it is broken off below the deck, find or make a collar that will keep the drill bit centered.

 

[WillWagner]

Another thing I have had good luck with on exhaust bolts/studs is a tapered carbide burr. Start slow so you stay centered and after you get a good hole started, use it with a bit more pressure. Most of the time, the vibrations from the burr loosen things up and it comes out with with your fingers. Yes, use penetrant.

 

[USN_Green_Addict]

Spray some good penetrating oil on it and let it sit. After a bit of time, get a punch and give it a couple good taps, re apply the penetrant then, you might get lucky, use a center punch or a small chisel and try and un screw it. If you drill it, stay centered, when the hole is drilled off center, the remover that is pushed into the drilled hole can cause the thin side to push into the threads making it tougher to remove. If it is broken off below the deck, find or make a collar that will keep the drill bit centered.

Im soaking it in Kroil and Schaeffer's Penetro 90 Penetrating Oil till the end of the week. Im thinking of getting a reverse thread bit or endmill.

 

[USN_Green_Addict]

ok I have a few ideas, I can use the lathe and a 1 inch brass bar to make a drill guide, or have it taper to almost a interfearence fit, so i can use the welder to build the stud up, or i can make a drill guide to use with a carbide left handed endmill to use with a magdrill.

 

[WillWagner]

Try the easy stuff first. It might just back out with a little force from a center punch.

 

[marchplumber]

Try the easy stuff first. It might just back out with a little force from a center punch.

Common Sense? NO WAY! Sledge and a railroad spike!
(JUST KIDDIN!). Ya make an old guy smile, Sir!

 

[Guyfang]

By and large, that has been the case for me. Unless its bottomed out, and not rusted in, most will come out, without a lot of stress.

 

[JasonS]

I have found it much easier to simply weld a nut onto the broken bolt/ stud/ pipe plug than trying to drill it out.

 

[cwc]

Any update on the removal of the broken stud?

Thinking about why the stud may have broken...it looks like there is antiseize on the threads. If the target torque value is based on oil as a lubricant, the antiseize may have produced a higher stress than the stud material could handle. Depending on the type, the use of antiseize could produce something on the order of half again the intended bolt stress. (Search "nut factor" for more info on the factors that influence the relationship between torque and achieved bolt stress.)

Also avoid double-clicking a clicker wrench in quick succession - using a clicker wrench in jack-hammer fashion bumps the torque beyond the target with every click. Double-checking with a pause between clicks does not cause the same ratcheting effect...

Sent from my motorola one 5G UW ace using Tapatalk

 

[dmetalmiki]

Welcome back Partner!

Well world 'things' Had me not enamored to the worlds events..
And others had said "well maybe it's time to start cutting down on stuff" ..or to 'something' smaller as we age..
So OK, I did just that..Sort Of!.
"Come home to daddy".. the ambulance..from 25 years ago
A recent Gaz69. Diesel engine 5 gears . hi - low 4 or 2 w.d. Note the russian Mig fighter clock on the dash.
WW11. Hippo, Chassis cut. Lengthened 5 feet! observation platform fitted behind cab, Now converted to the young (cadet) helpers "bedroom den".
Original Engine in cab? NOPE. Power steering as original? NOPE, No power brakes as original? NOPE.
Under the kids room conversion, , V8 Perkins, Diesel. 6 speed Alison auto gearbox with Hi Low. Power steering, Power full air brakes.
3 (yes three) Bedrooms..kitchen, Toilet, Shower. Air con, 7500w. inverter. two 1500 w Inverters. 5kva generator. Batteries for "things" 12 of!.
Kraz? HUGE!.
Traki 'thing"?. All n.o.s. ww11 jeep parts.Converted. Wrangler gas, petrol Auto. winch.

How?..(getting in out the hippo). WAIT.. for the kid to put the onboard ladder out for I to climb!.
Yes Ive kept all the other stuff. (You STILL not going to sell???) YES..Well....(as usual for those that know me..)..AFTER THIS ONE!!.

Well, how long you going to keep doing it.......ERRR, As long as I CAN keep doing it!.

 

[marchplumber]

Well world 'things' Had me not enamored to the worlds events..
And others had said "well maybe it's time to start cutting down on stuff" ..or to 'something' smaller as we age..
So OK, I did just that..Sort Of!.
"Come home to daddy".. the ambulance..from 25 years ago
A recent Gaz69. Diesel engine 5 gears . hi - low 4 or 2 w.d. Note the russian Mig fighter clock on the dash.
WW11. Hippo, Chassis cut. Lengthened 5 feet! observation platform fitted behind cab, Now converted to the young (cadet) helpers "bedroom den".
Original Engine in cab? NOPE. Power steering as original? NOPE, No power brakes as original? NOPE.
Under the kids room conversion, , V8 Perkins, Diesel. 6 speed Alison auto gearbox with Hi Low. Power steering, Power full air brakes.
3 (yes three) Bedrooms..kitchen, Toilet, Shower. Air con, 7500w. inverter. two 1500 w Inverters. 5kva generator. Batteries for "things" 12 of!.
Kraz? HUGE!.
Traki 'thing"?. All n.o.s. ww11 jeep parts.Converted. Wrangler gas, petrol Auto. winch.

How?..(getting in out the hippo). WAIT.. for the kid to put the onboard ladder out for I to climb!.
Yes Ive kept all the other stuff. (You STILL not going to sell???) YES..Well....(as usual for those that know me..)..AFTER THIS ONE!!.

Well, how long you going to keep doing it.......ERRR, As long as I CAN keep doing it!.

Keep 'em rollin, Sir!

 

[JasonS]

Any update on the removal of the broken stud?

Thinking about why the stud may have broken...it looks like there is antiseize on the threads. If the target torque value is based on oil as a lubricant, the antiseize may have produced a higher stress than the stud material could handle. Depending on the type, the use of antiseize could produce something on the order of half again the intended bolt stress. (Search "nut factor" for more info on the factors that influence the relationship between torque and achieved bolt stress.)

Also avoid double-clicking a clicker wrench in quick succession - using a clicker wrench in jack-hammer fashion bumps the torque beyond the target with every click. Double-checking with a pause between clicks does not cause the same ratcheting effect...

Sent from my motorola one 5G UW ace using Tapatalk

I know that the tractor version of the multifuel struggled with head studs and went through several iterations...

 

[87cr250r]

Any update on the removal of the broken stud?

Thinking about why the stud may have broken...

Sometimes diesel engines randomly break studs/bolts. Replace the head gasket and bolts and everything will be fine afterwards. I've had this failure occur. I've never had it repeat.

 

[Ray70]

Some tricks I've learned over the years dealing with broken screws bolts and studs when there is nothing left to grab on to.

1) If the fastener breaks due to over torquing then once broken, there is usually very little resistance holding it in. Get yourself a good set of Left Hand drill bits and drill a pilot hole 1/4" to 3/8" deep. Increase to a larger size. Often times the bit's bite into the metal is enough to unscrew the broken fastener. If not, continue drilling until you can get a screw remover / easy-out into the hole and try that. A note on easy outs, if the fastener was small and there is not a lot of wall thickness left, use the straight tapered removers, not the left hand helix type as the helix type tends to expand the this side wall, forcing the fastener tighter against the female thread.

2) when dealing with fasteners that broke due to corrosion, cross threading etc, DO NOT bother welding a nut on to the end of the broken fastener, 99.9% of the time your weld will break, especially if the fastener was hardened. Instead, try heating the fastener first. You need an acetylene torch, not a propane or MAP gas, you need to try to heat the bolt fast without heating the surrounding part as much. After heating, place an appropriately sized washer over the fastener. Weld the washer to the fastener, then weld a short bolt ( as large as possible ) to the washer. Let it cool slowly, don't quench it. Then try to remove it. Welding a washer first is way more effective than trying to weld down into the inside of a nut. The heat from welding also helps free the frozen fastener. This works great on broken exhaust manifold studs in aluminum heads.