Broken Head Stud Removal

[87cr250r]

100% on the straight tapered extractors for thin walled extractions, broken pipes are also an example. If you're going to keep a set in your box these should be the set.
Stronger extractors are only necessary if you're dealing with Loctite or distorted threads. Extractors don't work on seized or galled bolts so you should never be using extractors at torque levels that approach the bolt's tightening torque.

High strength fasteners have a high carbon content. Use alloys with nickel, the more the better. 99% Ni rods are very expensive, so are 55. There are other options. 309 stainless steel has a decent amount of nickel and is affordable and easily sourced. Even 8018 has a touch of nickel and would be better than your 60 or 70 ksi rods.

 

[USN_Green_Addict]

I haven't removed it yet. After new years I am going to go back at it sense Im far away from my truck. I left the head on so a pool of kroil and schaffers can soak. fingers crossed . I used brake clean on the threads after cleaning and my kroil schaffefs mix.

 

[USN_Green_Addict]

Any update on the removal of the broken stud?

Thinking about why the stud may have broken...it looks like there is antiseize on the threads. If the target torque value is based on oil as a lubricant, the antiseize may have produced a higher stress than the stud material could handle. Depending on the type, the use of antiseize could produce something on the order of half again the intended bolt stress. (Search "nut factor" for more info on the factors that influence the relationship between torque and achieved bolt stress.)

Also avoid double-clicking a clicker wrench in quick succession - using a clicker wrench in jack-hammer fashion bumps the torque beyond the target with every click. Double-checking with a pause between clicks does not cause the same ratcheting effect...

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I used my new digital torque wrench.