The post/picture right above yours first post this afternoon shows the pinout. Make a V jumper(2 jumpers connected at one end). Put the point of the V in pin H(24V). With wet tank full(after dryer purge), shutdown engine(ign off). Put the other end of one jumper into pin R(control solenoid). Turn on ignition to apply 24v H to R to close the control solenoid and seal the system. Briefly connect the end of the other jumper to pin B for half a sec, to give a shot of air from the wet tank to pressurize the system and open the wheel valves…
now in a perfect world the system should set all day at tire pressure until you turn off the ign or pull the H-R jumper to open the control solenoid and vent the system. But what usually happens is a leak starts to lower pressure and the dump/QR valves acting as remote pressure regulators vent tire pressure to try and match the loss from the leak. So after I give the shot of air I quickly go look at the dump valves for air coming out of the air horn vent port. The front axle dump is on the right side of the transmission. The rear axle dumps are over the rear axle on the rear side of the brake component crossmember and over the rearmost axle on a 6X(One for each axle) Any air leaking there means there is leakage somewhere in the system. A bad leak will shift the dumps into high dump mode (loud woosh from the vent horns)… first step is finding and fixing the leaks so no air comes out the vents during system pressurize/pressure check…
This is the basis of my manual control seen here. Don’t feel the need to have it automated, but it is nice to have it manually under my finger so to speak, when I want it… 3 switches, a relay and a pressure gauge, pretty straight forward, ~$75 in parts depending on how fancy a gauge you want to use… there is another video on my prototype with the guts scooped out of my bricked controller and a cheap mechanical pressure gauge.
