CUCV troubles, need help

[dillehay]

First let me say thanks to all who contribute to this forum as I've used it many times over the years owning this aggravating but part of the family CUCV affectionally known as Mater.

Here is my problem that I can't seem to figure out. truck runs fine one day, park it, come out next day batteries seem to be dead, I attempt to start after the glow plug sequence times out, very slow cranking. turn the ignition switch off and the starter continues to cycle. I take the cables off the batteries. the negative post on the front battery looks like it has gotten hot (somewhat melted). I was attempting to see if both of the gen lights would come on .....but got side tracked with the continuous starting with the key off issue.

now here is what I've done.
1. doghead relay (was done many years ago) even replaced it with new relay to make sure no issue.
2. new batteries both, one is a few months newer than the other, front is new.
3. new starter in the past year.

when I attempted to install the new front battery, started with the rear battery first, the horn seemed like it wanted to engage, i stopped the install, I didn't want to buy another set of batteries.

what am I missing? I'm not a mechanic or electrician, just a country boy, small farmer with some tools and a barn and a CUCV that is not reliable and out of service at the moment. Help please. Thanks in advance.

 

[NDT]

You have two problems that ate unrelated.
Problem 1 is the starter run-on. Suggest you disconnect the solenoid wire from the starter and reconnect the batteries. If run on continues, starter is shot. If not, problem is somewhere in the doghead circuit, or the ignition switch.
Problem 2 is your “parasitic draw”, or power being used by something when the truck is off that drains the batteries. That will take some detective work. Suggest you remove fuses one by one until you get no spark when connecting the batteries.

 

[Barrman]

NDT summed it up perfectly. I want to add that the starter solenoid could be welded on. As in the plate inside is welded to the contacts and permanently on. I had that happen to me with a “new” starter years ago.

 

[deank]

The easiest way I have found to locate a parasitic draw is to disconnect the negative cable of the front battery, connect a test light to the battery terminal snd the probe to the battery cable. If there is a draw, the light will come on. Then pull one fuse at a time until the light goes out.

 

[dillehay]

Thanks for the replies. I'll start the process.

 

[WWRD99]

Thanks for the replies. I'll start the process.

So when did you replace the doghead relay? Does it still try to start since you put the new one in? Is the solenoid engaged with the key off? Simple test light will tell you if you have power at that solenoid with the key off on both sides. It should only get power when you turn the key to start. The drain is pretty much the alternator regulators. Unplug one and see if the draw goes away. Another easy way to see the draw is the gen lights will be on very dim with the key off. Good to see that at night.

 

[sneekyeye]

It could also be that if your starter is running itself, then it could also be the source of your draw. It may not be completely opening its contacts when it was "off" and running your batts down. If you had access to an infrared camera, you can often locate a draw by its heat signature.

 

[deank]

So when did you replace the doghead relay? Does it still try to start since you put the new one in? Is the solenoid engaged with the key off? Simple test light will tell you if you have power at that solenoid with the key off on both sides. It should only get power when you turn the key to start. The drain is pretty much the alternator regulators. Unplug one and see if the draw goes away. Another easy way to see the draw is the gen lights will be on very dim with the key off. Good to see that at night.

Does that indicate the voltage regulator is bad?

 

[WWRD99]

Does that indicate the voltage regulator is bad?

Yes. I have one in a m1009 now that can sit for a day and be good then it decides to groundout and turn on the light very dim and drain the battery to nothing. I just ordered a new rebuild kit for it today. It took me a while to find until I got into it at night and saw the light on with no key at all.

 

[dillehay]

Thanks for all the replys. I've not had time to test any ideas. I will post results.

 

[deank]

Yes. I have one in a m1009 now that can sit for a day and be good then it decides to groundout and turn on the light very dim and drain the battery to nothing. I just ordered a new rebuild kit for it today. It took me a while to find until I got into it at night and saw the light on with no key at all.

I have battery disconnect switches mounted to my brush guard.

 

[dillehay]

Sorry late to update my issues.

Here is what I've done.......
1. replaced front battery
2. replaced the starter (I think this may have been the culprit more than any thing else)
3. chased all the wires all the way to the fuse box or up to the fire wall. (I did find one wire that had a broken connector, replaced that)

truck has started and ran up until one day last week. battery was low, it was also 35 degrees outside. I put a trickle charger on the battery and it started, so far no issues. Now today in Middle Tennessee its 16 degrees with snow and ice, I've not tried to start. I guess we'll see.

I think I still have some parasitic draw that is causing the battery to lose it's charge.

 

[WWRD99]

Sorry late to update my issues.

Here is what I've done.......
1. replaced front battery
2. replaced the starter (I think this may have been the culprit more than any thing else)
3. chased all the wires all the way to the fuse box or up to the fire wall. (I did find one wire that had a broken connector, replaced that)

truck has started and ran up until one day last week. battery was low, it was also 35 degrees outside. I put a trickle charger on the battery and it started, so far no issues. Now today in Middle Tennessee its 16 degrees with snow and ice, I've not tried to start. I guess we'll see.

I think I still have some parasitic draw that is causing the battery to lose it's charge.

Did you unplug the alternators and see if the draw came from them?

 

[dillehay]

I did not.
Should I unplug both at same time? or separately?

 

[WWRD99]

I did not.
Should I unplug both at same time? or separately?

You could do both at the same time and see if it goes away then you'd have to figure out which one.

 

[Jake59]

Perhaps you should check the ignition switch itself, the electric sliding contacts part of it that is, to see if everything is as should be there of if any contacts have burned or welded together...
Just an idea...

Jake