Drash/ HDT Fun

[Toolslinger]

If you're looking for 16" flex duct/hose, I know McMaster-Carr carries a variety of versions up in that diameter. None of it is free, but then 12" isn't either...

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

I ended up buying a surplus 16" duct, next week new compressor goes in. i can not find it in the manual but can someone tell me the type of antifreeze if anything special that goes in the auxillary heating unit. One on the HVAC unit and One on the Generator

 

[LuckeyD]

Good Day: I looked in expendable supplies and it says antifreeze Ethylene glycol base. Normal conditions a 40% antifreeze to water mix, colder environments use 50/50, , and Artic 60/40 mix. Recommend a 50/50 which was used world wide in the systems. Covers the broadest areas of the planet. Sound good?

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

Sounds great thanks. Surprized something so simple i was not able to find in the TM from the Manufacturer.

 

[LuckeyD]

I cheated. PSI which is HDT, which are DRS, which we all call DRASH, has many models. I had nose in the book for several. I checked books I am not allowed to give out because they are proprietary. You supposed to go to the MFR and buy a set is what that means. They like the Money. The older books did not have this section or a lubrication order. We also had cheat sheets we used while in the war zones, which I found at the last, duh. TMI. Usually the gen set hydronic heater even with the battery heating plate used the same stuff as you find in the radiator. Look at your engine cooling hoses as a hint. One system used the hydronic heater in the ECU and piped to the gen set two hoses. Real strange.

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

Exciting day today. Over the weekend i brought my trailer to work and put it in the shop. My service manager has decided he want to fix the unit for me so its in a heated shop and slated to be fixed starting today. I will definitely need the aux heat this winter as the temps have plummeted down to 3 degrees over night and will not get past 15 today. I tried to work in my small shop last night that is lightly insulated and with the minisplit and 1500watt heater it was just not warm enough. So if i get this set up my big shop will be fine with this running and my forced air wood/coal stove going. Over 3 years ive been hoping this would happen. I have 2 extra compressors if this works and might consider buying another and fixing it myself, but lets get this one going first.

 

[LuckeyD]

That sounds like a great Christmas gift. I wish you luck, and happy holidays

 

[Toolslinger]

That sounds very nice... The 5000w heater is really not cutting it in the garage I'm using over the winter this year... Likely going to have to start using the propane along with the electric... This year is just brutal.

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

Big update, All systems have been closed up, I now have a new compressor and filter dryer. a larger filter dryer was installed because it was on our shelf at the office, and i had to replace the flex line coming off the compressor since it fell apart while desoldering the old compressor. Unit was purged and vacuumed down for a day or so untill we were sure it was not leaking and moisture had been removed. now full of 407c. Unit will be further tested when warmer weather comes back, untill then i can use the heat and now that the hole has been fixed the aux heat as well. This has been a long time coming.

 

[LuckeyD]

Supercool!

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

I had a customer wanting my last 802a and after digging it out of the snow, batteries were weak, 4 degrees outside so i hauled it up next to the drash unit to Slave the batteries since i cant find my 24v charger with a nato plug on it. I did not get the 802 started untill tonight when i realized the stupid square facet pump had died on me, but back to the drash unit i was trying out the heat and it did not produce, it worked before i had all the work done. after looking i believe the thermostat is bad, so thats an easy part to find, but i decided to let it run while i went to bed. After working till midnight on the 802, i just let the Drash unit run and i severely underestimated the fuel usage of the drash unit at idle to charge batteries. It ran out of fuel and i assume kept running the electric pump until both units batteries were dead. I am trying to find a replacement pump. The part number for Isuzu is listed down at the bottom, but i can not find any information for a alternate, 24v obviously but cant find flow rate. any help out there would be great. As a side note i also have a 501a to charge batteries but the cord broke and did not have any in stock at the house, started it with electric start before the drash went dead and after running it also ran out of fuel because when filling in the dark at 11pm with a military fuel can i thought the over flowing was full but turns out the screen was clogged If you have ever run a 531a ir 501a out fuel you will understand the nightmare of getting them primed back. So 4 dead batteries, battery charger down, i went to get my skid steer out of the barn tonight after taking a day off yesterday only for the overhead door to malfunction and only raise the door just high enough that it looked open when backing up but was not so destroying the bottom panel, but i was able to move my AMMPS 1030 charge the battery on the 802a replaced its fuel pump and its ready for the customer tomorrow. Talk about bad run of luck.
8-94425751-1
PUMP ASM; FUEL,

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

According to Diesel Parts direct looks like its been superceded by part number
Isuzu IZ-7552395870
Still and Isuzu part has to be ordered direct $261 dollars. I will keep searching, but i think this weekend, i am just going to pull a pump off the shelf that i have thats 24v hopefully 6psi would be enough to charge the injector pump. its a worth a shot and the pump is already paid for from some pallet of surplus i bought.

 

[trsnider]

Hello folks 20 yr Virginia HVAC tech here, 407 and R22 are pretty much the same animal, some will say interchangeable, but are forgiving oil wise, I’ve worked on many blown out systems that sat open all winter and were successfully repaired in spring

I’ve got 5 Drash units haven’t seen any with drilled holes Butner NC yet.

if you get unknown AC units with no refrigerant first thing you wanna do is power ECU unit up and bump the contactor see if compressor is good, if it runs and doesn’t make horrible noises it’s prolly fine, Even with no refrigerant low side will pull a vacuum if she’s pumping, Remember scroll compressors are phase dependent!!

next thing you wanna do is pressure test with nitrogen and see if it’s gonna hold pressure, let it sit for 24hrs +. No sense in dumping refrigerant into a slow leaker, Weld / braze any leaks and retest.

if you have gotten this far, change the filter dryer and pull a good deep vacuum on it, the longer the better, the hotter the ambient air the better,

check rated charge, put about 1/2 charge into high side, crank it up make sure everything is happy, slowly put remaining charge in low side while compressor is running

I’ve repaired several 22 systems with actual water in the system, deep vacuum and way oversized filter dryer, (changed after a month) it’s still running yrs later