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ECO Hubs Who needs 3:07 gears?

Dmartin247

Member
22
35
13
Location
Boulder City, Nevada
I’m a recent adopter of eco hubs for my 1994 M1085. My primary goal was to half the driveline speed to give the 3116 a chance to work where it’s supposed to in the correct RPM range. Any mpg gain obviously appreciated. Long term goal is a 20’ habitat to go play in desert and take to Alaska from southern Nevada. So today (and yesterday) was installation day for 6 wheels/3 axles..

Of course the disclaimer.. Nothing I state here is meant to be complaining, really just notes that caught my eye or caught me by surprise that would have been a good to know going in so it didn’t freak me out. :). But seriously, questioning yourself part way through adds to project time. So I agree that the first one takes the longest, but i found that the others were not half the time either, mainly due to me making sure I didn’t hose something up (which of course I did.. LOL)

Ok, for those who haven’t done this I offer the following…..

  1. Watch a couple videos. The one from the Eco Hubs website, the one Drive the Globe did, maybe another one. They all have good info, but each has a couple little subtle comments that are super useful, but they aren’t all in one place.
  2. open every freaking box and lay it out on a table. I got 3 boxes. Opened one, Opened 2nd, found the instructions and parts list and a couple nice beverage holders. So waited to open the 3rd. In the video from the website, A homemade tool is referenced to help chase out the threads. I found said tool in box 3 when I finally got to the last axle after I had finished 4 wheels and cleaned the 5th. LOL. Worked great for number 6. 100% would have used the whole time..
  3. Keeping a small table nearby for the wheel you are working on is super handy. BE SURE TO PUT ALL PARTS FOR THAT WHEEL ON THAT TABLE. Nothing is more depressing in the project to have fully siliconed, threadlocked and installed the plate and cap all nice and lined up and stroll to “main table” and see a delta lock and split lock staring back at you like you are an idiot…. I would wish that on no one.
  4. Cleaning sucks, but it’s worth it and its amazing how many colors of silicone I saw during this project. (Seriously. White, black and orange on same wheel? Who uses orange gasket maker still? Wasn’t that the 80’s? Black, Grey, Blue and Green are all the rage now..
  5. I did the front wheels first because of the way I backed in and it was late in the day and possible rain. They actually went great and I was slow and methodical. Was a little dark and ALMOST left a rag in the front hub. Couldn’t quite see and realized I needed more light and was able to fish it out after I got the wheel plate on, but before the drive cap went on. That was close…
  6. Stay focused and watch out for project creep…. Driving from my storage to my house, I started losing air when brake pedal was depressed. like at a long light. Worked great otherwise. Clearly the tractor protect valve, but it’s the weekend. Get hubs done first and then chase that. Oh, need to drain the two rear axles. Why is one full of brown fluid and one green? Has one been changed and one hasn’t? That makes no sense given the truck history that I know of. Ok, rotate the tires to get the drain/fill hole at the 4 o’clock position. Start truck. Deal with air missing. Wait there’s no air holding the parking brake (see leak above). How are the front wheels turning to line stuff up? Back ones didn’t, front ones did, do they need adjustment? Wait, did I forget to put the split lock on? Just saying easy to forget if it’s not laid out and super easy to get sidetracked.
  7. Someone could have warned me about the back axles. Those puppies have been locked up and they wanted OUT. Like spring loaded. I went the route Drive the Globe did and just took the whole hub cover off. In all 4 rear hubs the spider tried to come with the cover and had to break it free to get it to not pull the axle out as i pulled the whole cover off. And that craps heavy.. I also had the rear axle pop out a coupe times while wiping during clean up. Like wiped it 8” towards me. Freaked out. Just pushed it back in and alls good. I was under the impression thats more of a hassle than it was for me.
  8. I did lift the front two wheels to line things up just in case. I did NOT on the back and question if I needed to in the front. I did install the first plate then kinda dry fit the axle cap to be sure I had a chance of lining up. I would have jacked up the wheel if i didn’t feel good about it, but there is lots of play in that axle to get centered.
  9. Lastly I swear I spent more time moving my setup from wheel to wheel then I did on said wheel. Do I have rags, do I have the little diverter to not make a mess. Where are the picks, crap left the air hose over there. Ran out of silicone, or brake cleaner or scotch brite.
  10. Grinding the c-clips was a no brainer. 15 seconds and done first time all six times.
So again, nuance plagued me. But the moment I lined up two bolts on anything, the rest popped right into place and threaded super easy. The delta lock was wonky on both my front hubs, but not on any of the rear. Like the two pins didn’t wanna line up perfect no matter what I did. (One pin kept kinda dragging on the delta lock) Happened once in the back but I flipped it and it went right on like it belonged. Also no issues with having to spread the split lock. Went right on snug like it should.

I used two tubes of silicone, (I opted to get the gaskets from eco hubs) about 5 cans of brake cleaner, one large blue loctite, several dollar store roasting pans to hold the gears and bolts and for cleaning the nuts and bolts, and way more shop towels than I would have guessed,but was happy they were always in reach when just a little more gear lube came dripping down from the hub bearing while I cleaned.

That was long winded, but I really wanted anyone who hasn’t done it to not be intimidated. But much like Chinese food, it’s all in the prep. Last thing you need is to start cleaning bolts and putting on washers while you got exposed silicone thats acting like its gonna cure before you are ready :)

Again, props to Eco Hubs. It all went together great, Big solid, beefy, nothing to accidentally fold or bend or warp.. Every bolt threaded quickly and cleanly and I had zero problems aligning the plates. Now soon as I put SEVERAL gallons of 90W back into the axles and make sure I have brakes again, I will take it for a spin… :)
 

Keith Knight

Well-known member
1,208
2,260
113
Location
Wauchula, FL
I can add to your story….Double check and be a sure you torque ALL the bolts!!!
In a rush to beat the rain I had snugged the last hubs bolts with a regular impact but forgot do a final torque to all of them. After about 300 miles of driving it was leaking with loose bolts. Had to disassemble, clean all the silicone off and start over when I got home.
 

GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
2,793
6,524
113
Location
Portland, OR
So much details. There wasn't even written instructions for the first non-prototype set I installed. It all seemed pretty obvious but that's why we need real amateurs to give feedback - all the details (like the inside/outside orientation of the drive plates) become subconscious and we don't even consider that someone would make that mistake.
 

Dmartin247

Member
22
35
13
Location
Boulder City, Nevada
So much details. There wasn't even written instructions for the first non-prototype set I installed. It all seemed pretty obvious but that's why we need real amateurs to give feedback - all the details (like the inside/outside orientation of the drive plates) become subconscious and we don't even consider that someone would make that mistake.
Fully agree, it’s sooo easy to take something for granted that seems obvious that you are intimate with that the next guy has no clue.

I left off one question.. What is everyone doing with their 2:1 reduction? Thats like 300lbs of dead weight. I’m pretty sure I am NOT going back. Is there a market? Someone want them? Im not trying to get money for them. Just would like to see them to a good home before I haul them to scrap or dump. They seem nice and well made, I just have no use for them.
 

Dmartin247

Member
22
35
13
Location
Boulder City, Nevada
So I marked and put the 2:1 reductions away for safe keeping for the future for now, but after getting to drive it around, Not sure on the going back. Lol. I have an M1085 that came with highway gears and have now added the eco hubs. The “quiet” is pretty awesome although I now hear several other things I’m sure need attention. My speedo was set pretty close for the highway gears, but after searching this thread a couple times and elsewhere, I have yet to find the dip switch settings for eco hubs and highway gears. Did someone ever actually post them and I missed it? I saw some of the settings on about page 12 of the thread that I think I will start trying, but wanted to check here first. Thanks again to everyone on this forum. It’s been great for someone like me who has had to chase throttle cables, bad tractor protect valve, questionable check valves and a leaking oil pressure switch. Just to feel comfortable driving and not needing a full service truck to support me. :)
 

ckouba

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
723
2,095
93
Location
Oregon
My speedo was set pretty close for the highway gears, but after searching this thread a couple times and elsewhere, I have yet to find the dip switch settings for eco hubs and highway gears. Did someone ever actually post them and I missed it?
Someone else literally just asked me for the same info yesterday, so I took my dash apart to get a pic. I have Eco Hubs and 3.07's in my 1088 and this is how mine are set (two different lighting conditions):



 

Sgt Jiggins

Potato Peeler
502
317
63
Location
NorCal
Been debating a set of ecohubs for an m1084 I'm going to be adding to the fleet. I've only had one person say they weren't a fan and it had nothing to do with build quality nor end result: they actually need the torque in their applicant. ok, makes sense.

Have heard rumblings of a 2.0 version. Is there anything to this? If so, should I wait? Any insight appreciated.
 
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Third From Texas

Well-known member
2,854
6,702
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Have heard rumblings of a 2.0 version. Is there anything to this? If so, should I wait? Any insight appreciated
There's a thread here about the 2.0

They aren't out yet (development).
They'll be much more expensive, supposedly.
And they protrude out a bit more (which could be an issue depending on terrain, I've seen guys rip CTIS valves off the wheels and tearing off a hub could be a bit more of a problem in the field).

But we're all waiting to see what 2.0 brings and costs.
 

Xengineguy

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
273
849
93
Location
USA Indiana
Been debating a set of ecohubs for an m0184 I'm going to be adding to the fleet. I've only had one person say they weren't a fan and it had nothing to do with build quality nor end result: they actually need the torque in their applicant. ok, makes sense.

Have heard rumblings of a 2.0 version. Is there anything to this? If so, should I wait? Any insight appreciated.
The 2.0 EcoHubs version is in testing now. We don’t have a price or a production date. Very busy working out details.
What I’m going to say again, only trucks that are very heavy and off road will benefit for the 2:1 reduction.
2.0 Eco Hubs are designed for water trucks (fire department etc.). that need to get to the fire and then go off road to
put out brush fires.
The cost of the 2.0 will be much more than standard Eco Hubs, personally I wouldn’t wait.
 
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