Front pintle hook on M1008

[firefox]

Has any one mounted a pintle hook on the front of their M1008?

 

[cucvrus]

I have. I made a brace behind the bumper and used a pintle from an M1031. I have no pictures so i guess it never happened. I am going to design a class 3 receiver for the front so I can mount my winch fore and aft.

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

I've got a front receiver hitch on my m1028, that way I can have a pintle or winch on it (or nothing).

 

[corelokt]

I've got a plow frame set aside to make a front mount.

 

[Tinstar]

Revival of old thread.

Want to install Pintle on the front bumper on my M1008A1.
Any issues with this setup?
What backing is recommended?
Pics would be great, including the backing plates, etc..
I did find two pictures from another members cucv.

I know there are front mount 2” receiver hitches available, but it puts the Pintle too low for me.
Don’t want to use a riser.
I just don’t like the look of it.


Edit.
The first picture is what I would like to do.
The second picture is the receiver mount and do not want to do that.

 

[cucvrus]

The second picture would be the nicest. Cut a square hole in the license plate area and fabricate a class 3 receiver in behind the bumper. If you don't like the hole or pintle when not in use mount a front license plate over the hole. Down fall is that the reciever pin is going to be a bit difficult to install. But that can be made easier with practice. I have done this on 2. I put a class 3 receiver on 1 truck for a customer with a spare tire carrier. Good Luck. Make sure you get a reputable welder to do the welding. I would not like things falling off in front of the truck at 60MPH. No pictures.

 

[Tinstar]

Would prefer not to go that route.
It will only be used to park trailers and move around my NF2D light tower.

The NF2D is heavy and would like to see the backing plates used so I don’t bend bumper.

 

[cucvrus]

No pictures. But a piece of flat bar tied into the frame flange and behind the pintle will do the job. Without and CUCV modifacations it would have to be bolt on. Very simple with a shop and some tools. good Luck. Not sure what suits you. I personnaly would want it bolted to the bumper or thru the bumper. I was just following orders. Under the bumer would suit me and vertical attachment would be invisble. Have steel , tools, welder can fabricate.

 

[Tinstar]

I have a shop, lift, welder and stock steel and can fabric something much more involved IF I have to.

Would like to see what other guys have done when they attached the Pintle directly to bumper.
Can I use just a simple backing plate and call it good or ??
Want to know what has worked for other guys when it’s mounted to bumper.

Basically, want to install a Pintle hitch, using a 1/4” steel backing plate and Grade 8 bolts, and not bend bumper moving around up to 1 1/2 tons.

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

The CUCV with the hook going through the bumper itself just has a backing plate on it, nothing going to the frame of the truck. It's actually the plate from the outside of a CUCV pickup bumper that has the two carriage bolts. That's behind the bumper upside down and then since the bumper is thin I think there's another spacer because it won't tighten up without it.
It's been on there for 5 or so years and I'm sure it's been used a hundred times. Haven't had any issues with moderately loaded m101 trailers/ tool trailers and it's moved around empty m105s without any problems.

 

[Tinstar]

The CUCV with the hook going through the bumper itself just has a backing plate on it, nothing going to the frame of the truck. It's actually the plate from the outside of a CUCV pickup bumper that has the two carriage bolts. That's behind the bumper upside down and then since the bumper is thin I think there's another spacer because it won't tighten up without it.
It's been on there for 5 or so years and I'm sure it's been used a hundred times. Haven't had any issues with moderately loaded m101 trailers/ tool trailers and it's moved around empty m105s without any problems.

Exactly the info I’m looking for.

Can you post pictures of the backing you used?

Plan is to plasma cut two pieces of 1/4” steel roughly the size of a license plate.
One for front side of bumper and one for the back side.
The bumper steel itself will be sandwiched between the two plates.
Pintle will be welded to the front steel plate.
That way the load will be spread over a larger footprint.

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

Didn’t put a ton of work into it. Since the hitch came off a CUCV pickup bumper the reinforcement is what was used for a backing plate.

 

[cucvrus]

I would use the pintle from an M1031. Less bumer damage and why would it have to swivel on the front. I doubt you will be going over rough terrain with a trailer attched to the pushing end. Just a thought, And that reinforcement is a sought after piece. I just sold one to a member here and one last year also. Looks good either way.

 

[cucvrus]

I have a collection of pintle hooks. The left is an M1031 hook Non swivel type. I scrapped an M1031 a long time ago. It was a huge mess and damaged heavily when I bought it. The one on the right is a 4 bolt Holland hitch. These are what I would use. Or the M60 tank pintle. This was in a big crate that had armored parts in it. I still have the hatch and ring from some type of armored vehicle. Was going to mount it on an M1009 rear roof. Never took the time to do it. I mean I have a few extra roofs setting around if I don't like it. But Tinstar if you need a pintle let me know. Good Luck. Just sharing ideas and softening the modification impact on your nice front bumper.

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

Actually I have used it over rough terrain, that’s why the swivel hook was installed instead of a fixed hook which can be found for much cheaper. If it ever gets removed and I have to weld it up then I won’t sweat a little extra welding on a flat surface, it doesn’t get much easier than that.

 

[Tinstar]

I don’t think I will need the swivel Pintle since I will only moving the M101A2s and the Nf2d around on fairy flat surfaces.
Anything more than that and I will just turn the truck around.

The pintle I will use is the basic 4 bolt, non-swivel like pictured in the above post.
Looked behind my front bumper today and it should be a fairly easy install.

Edit:
My main concern was the bumper itself.
Would it be strong enough?
I don’t want to ruin it.
Sounds like the bumper will hold up just fine for my intended use.

There is a picture I’ve seen (of course can’t find it now) of two active duty soldiers hooking up a M101A2 to a CUCV, with a front bumper mounted Pintle hitch.
Picture isn't close enough to determine if it’s a swivel Pintle.

 

[Tinstar]

Found the picture I was talking about in an earlier post.
2” receiver mounted under bumper.
I thought it was mounted direct to bumper but I clearly remembered it wrong.

Rethinking plans now.

 

[richingalveston]

here is a pic of my front receiver. just flat plate between the bottom frame rails with a tractor supply purchased reciever tube and some additional flat bar. I used 3/8 steel for the plate and flat bar so it is heavy duty. mine is used for my front winch mount. works great and the tube is snug to the bottom of the bumper.

 

[Tinstar]

here is a pic of my front receiver. just flat plate between the bottom frame rails with a tractor supply purchased reciever tube and some additional flat bar. I used 3/8 steel for the plate and flat bar so it is heavy duty. mine is used for my front winch mount. works great and the tube is snug to the bottom of the bumper.

Were you able to keep your front shackles with that install?

 

[richingalveston]

yes, does not interfere, they are on the outside of the frame rails. everything here is on the inside. The frame has curves in it so i just stacked washers in the middle bolt to make up for the curve. I built my plate to go from the bumper to the front cross member so it is difficult to get the bumper back on. I have to take out the grill to get to the four bolts in the center of the bumper. I have black out lights on both sides so i have to take the front covers off the black out lights and then the grill will slide out between the hood and brush gard. It may be easier to make one that is in an H shape so there are holes to get your hands through to get to the bumper bolts.
my plate is thick and i used some thick angle to space the receiver down so that it lies just under the bumper. when looking at the picture, you can see the angle. The cross bars were actually peices of the plate i cut and made, not actual flat bar.

I have used it several times to pull my truck up onto a goose neck trailer (about 3 feet tall) with the winch. I have not used it to recover the truck from getting stuck because it has not been out yet to get stuck.
It is very strong