Glow Plug day...

[KKroger]

Had been recently encountering Hard Starts (it has been cold here in the 20s) and Flashing Wait Light at times sometimes not...
So I replaced the Glow Plugs...

6 of 8 plugs read Wide Ass Open...
2 measured in Excess of 3 Megohms on the meter.
but not Open...

One red silicone boot had been eaten by squirrels... the engine valley was full of Squirrel leavings. DIRT, Acorns, Sticks Leaves... Cleaned about 3# of it out of there.
No Swollen Plugs were encountered all came out with no issue... went back in with Nickel Anti Seize, Verified 24 VDC on the harness. All is well, Now will see how it starts in the morning after a good cold soak.

All 4 plugs on the Passenger Side were accessed from the Doghouse opening, All 4 on the Drivers side from the engine compartment for the rear 3 and from under for the final one the alternator bracket and power steering lines were quite in the way.

 

[KKroger]

To add to this. Yesterday morning the temp was 18F cold soak all night long. Turned on switch to be met with a flashing WAIT ligjht. then a long crank time and having to apply some throttle to get it to run... After work yesterday approximately 27 degrees again flashing WAIT light, and cranking to start. TODAY early 0 Dark Thirty 37 Degrees normal wait light and cranked and started right up.

 

[LCA078]

All 4 plugs on the Passenger Side were accessed from the Doghouse opening, All 4 on the Drivers side from the engine compartment for the rear 3 and from under for the final one the alternator bracket and power steering lines were quite in the way.

Yes, removing the GP on the #1 cylinder under the alternator sucks... Sucks really bad when it's swollen. Ask me how I know....

 

[HMMWV DAD]

new guy asks Should they be replaced as part of routine maintenance every XX miles or XX years?

Thanks

 

[LCA078]

I would say it depends on where you're located. Up in MD, yeah, you need to verify they all work. Down here in central TX, not as much. As far as when to replace them, I'm in the "I live south so I don't touch them if I don't have to" mentality.

What's probably more important is verifying your start box is cycling the GP's correctly. What you don't want is the box to fail with your GP's stuck on or always cycling. I don't know the engine temp or time after start when the cycling stops but someone here knows the answer.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

A flashing wait lamp is not necessarily bad glow plugs, if it’s a fast continuous flashing, it’s a bad TSU, helps know the currently installed start box and what’s in the water cross over.

 

[MarkM]

Glad they all came out easy for you this time as typically that may not the case. What a joy it is to deal with a broken tip off the injector. With a properly working system mine starts up instantly in the cold.

Mark

Do whatever it takes.

 

[KKroger]

A flashing wait lamp is not necessarily bad glow plugs, if it’s a fast continuous flashing, it’s a bad TSU, helps know the currently installed start box and what’s in the water cross over.

Nartron and I "BELIEVE" a Yellow Stripe TSU... I have changed neither. This morning the wait light came on no problem solid. when it flashes there is no "Fast" or "Not Fast" that I can discern as it just flashes. the number of flashes differs sometimes 7 other times 14 I had it one time that it flashed and I turned it off waited a few seconds then back on and it didn't flash... Today when I leave work it will probably light solid. and when it does light solid it starts great.

 

[KKroger]

When it was in the nice heated shop no flashing, "Temperate" day no flashies. when Cold as a witches nipple it is 50/50 on what it does. I suspect the TSU. have not gotten that far. on a side note.

Has anyone tried a 120V Circulating Engine Heater? these plumb into the heater line and just pump warm water through when plugged in... similar to the Arctic Engine Heater.