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Help! 802A Different Injector Return Lines?

SC War Horse

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One of my return lines is leaking and they seem to be different than other posts I’ve found, and are different than illustrated in engine parts manual TM9-2815-252-24P.

I may be able to remove them and cut the crimp off and replace the rubber line. Whatcha think?

With the worst winter storm we’ve seen in the SE for a long time this isn’t the time for a leak. Can anyone help me out on these!

Thx,

Scott
 

SC War Horse

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Location
Camden, SC
Thanks for the reply, and that's the type of repair I was thinking about doing. Not sure when it got changed to this type of line, but I wish I had a bolt on replacement from the PLL Clerks parts bin!

Mine have not leaked yet so I have not replaced them. What I have seen is they take that line out and cut the top of the crimp off but not through the rubber line to leave the center nub. They put a rubber fuel line in it's place with hose clamps.
 

FarmingSmallKubota

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FSK,

I'm not sure why I wasn't seeing this correctly but you're exactly right. Guess I was in rotary pump world.

Thank you for your help and the link; greatly appreciated!

Scott



[
Looking at how bad that hose is your going to want to change the return lines soon as they will be leaking soon, or it may be too rotten to reconnect to the new line you are buying. Call me Colt precuts them and sells them on ebay as well, or gates hose from oreilly or VW fuel line. lots of threads on here on the subject.
 

Light in the Dark

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So look this can be easy or hard. There has been discussion about fuel lines over the years, one recently going through a lot of material spec data on the application. Might be worth a look. To get you up and going TOMORROW you can remove all the rubber lines in the set in one fell swoop if you want, or just the leaking return line. From your photos, it does not appear to be the return line thats leaking, but one of the primary feeder lines to the individual metering pumps.

Regardless of which... you can simply hit your local O Reilly Auto and buy some Gates Safety Stripe line. 1/8" for the return line (starts at the end of that metal line, goes up and over the engine, then down along the skid back to the fuel tank) or 1/4" for those primary lines that go to the metering pumps.



On the return line, there are also 1/8" plastic vacuum tees. They might be reusable, they might not be. Buy some if they have them as backups. The line is a push fit on them and on the barbs off the fuel injectors.

On the primary lines, you will need to carefully cut that metal band and remove the compression fitting off the pump side. You can replace it with the 1/4" Gates line, and some hose clamps. If the compression fittings are still strong on the pump side, you can use those... as they cause less interference issue. You might need to loosen the cast iron hold downs as you go on each cylinder, to install the hose and clamp and make sure the barbs are all rotated as far open (towards the push rod tubes) as each one can be... while being uniform position over all cylinders.
 

BeStihl

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Correct statement from LITD, I think you are confusing return lines with fuel supply lines. They all leak but those crimps are on the fuel supply to the injector pumps, the 1/8” (3.5mm) line on the end carries the return past the injectors and back to the day tank.
Daniel
 

DieselAddict

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I use a Dremel with a cut-off wheel to slice through the metal crimps on the fuel lines. I have found that the battery version of the Dremel works much better than the AC version. The battery version has way more torque at low RPM so you can spin the wheel much slower and it still cuts well. This prevents the wheel from catching and shooting off into orbit and damaging surrounding parts.

With this method I can change the supply side fuel lines on a 802 or 803 in under 20 minutes.

I use the spring style clamps on the hose. They work better in this application than the worm gear clamps.


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