That looks like what I bought a while back. Good stuff. The cylinder is just a marker to tell you the size of the link. I cut past it and tape it to the new wire so I know what size it is.
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HELP - Runaway starter wont stop running.
- Thread starter dc_cucv
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dc_cucv
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well not sure how that can be...posted a picture of it in a previous reply and nothing is touching.
also, the issue was there with the old starter i removed to install this new one. i installed the old one 2 years ago.
could it be something in the little wire perhaps, is there a fusible link somewhere?
I'll drop the starter again tomorrow but was trying to avoid that.
It can only be at the starter hence why you unhooked the purple wire that goes to it that gives the solenoid power. Unless you got a bad starter. There's only 2 wires on the starter...gotta be the small one or a bad starter.
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dc_cucv
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where does the small wire go to from the starter?
since I had the same issue with the other starter that used to work before, I tried to turn a truck over with the battery charger connected to the front battery, maybe that wire got fried. i guess that would explain the burnt smell when i removing the previous starter...
does it go from the starter to straight to the relay? anything in between?
dc_cucv
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any idea off the top of your head? what gauge wire it is? doesn't look as big as the 4 gauge power wire so I'm guessing maybe 12 gauge?
dc_cucv
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so if that wire ends up being the culprit then I basically replace my starter and everything else for no real good reason...fml.
so in theory if that wire is shorted out or melted, that would cause the starter to engage since it's receiving the 24 volts from the batteries?
and the purple wire on the relay is the signal wire from the ignition switch I presume?
so in theory if that wire is shorted out or melted, that would cause the starter to engage since it's receiving the 24 volts from the batteries?
and the purple wire on the relay is the signal wire from the ignition switch I presume?
dc_cucv
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The funny thing is today I talked to a guy from hillbilly wizard about this issue and he wasn't much help so that's why I posted on here.
he told me that fusible links are the black cylinders and in order to tell if one is bad you have to cut open the little black plastic cylinder to tell definitively if the fusible link is bad.
his name was Aiden or Eitan or something.
guessing he's incorrect about that...
Barrman
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I have really debated with myself about contributing to this thread again or not. To me, the answer and diagnostics needed to figure out the issues have been posted multiple times.
Here are some facts:
A fuseable link wire is made to work like a regular wire and then burn up if it gets to a specific temperature so that the rest of the wires in the circuit will not be damaged. A fuseable link that is bad will not conduct electricity. So, if something is on continuously then a burned fuseable link is not the cause.
The small purple wire at the starter solenoid delivers 24 volts to the solenoid and turns the solenoid on which turns on the starter motor itself. That wire goes from the starter motor to the through the firewall plug on the drivers side of the firewall behind the fuse panel. Using a 10 mm socket to unbolt that plug will let it come apart so you can look at the connections. There could be arcing between circuits inside that plug. The only way to know is to take it apart.
From that plug the purple wire goes to the starter relay above the throttle pedal and below where a radio would be in a civilian truck. That is the entire path of the purple wire.
A starter that turns itself on with only the big red wire attached to the solenoid has a failed on solenoid. Or, the big red wire is attached in such a way that it is conducting with the S terminal. This can be tested with jumper cables attached to a starter sitting on the ground.
The starter relay can fail. Stock or any aftermarket relay.
With the purple wire removed from the starter motor solenoid and the batteries attached. Nothing should happen. If the starter turns on, see 3 lines up.
With the purple wire hanging free inside the truck from the starter relay and attached at the starter motor solenoid. Nothing should happen. If the starter turns on after it has been tested with the purple wire not attached at the starter solenoid. Then the purple wire is getting voltage from somewhere it shouldn’t. The firewall plug is the most likely place for this. Otherwise the purple wire is going to have to be followed from the starter, around the back of the engine and over to the firewall plug.
Starter relay, starter wire (purple wire) or starter solenoid are really the only things that can be wrong.
Here is a video about why there is a starter relay:
Here are some facts:
A fuseable link wire is made to work like a regular wire and then burn up if it gets to a specific temperature so that the rest of the wires in the circuit will not be damaged. A fuseable link that is bad will not conduct electricity. So, if something is on continuously then a burned fuseable link is not the cause.
The small purple wire at the starter solenoid delivers 24 volts to the solenoid and turns the solenoid on which turns on the starter motor itself. That wire goes from the starter motor to the through the firewall plug on the drivers side of the firewall behind the fuse panel. Using a 10 mm socket to unbolt that plug will let it come apart so you can look at the connections. There could be arcing between circuits inside that plug. The only way to know is to take it apart.
From that plug the purple wire goes to the starter relay above the throttle pedal and below where a radio would be in a civilian truck. That is the entire path of the purple wire.
A starter that turns itself on with only the big red wire attached to the solenoid has a failed on solenoid. Or, the big red wire is attached in such a way that it is conducting with the S terminal. This can be tested with jumper cables attached to a starter sitting on the ground.
The starter relay can fail. Stock or any aftermarket relay.
With the purple wire removed from the starter motor solenoid and the batteries attached. Nothing should happen. If the starter turns on, see 3 lines up.
With the purple wire hanging free inside the truck from the starter relay and attached at the starter motor solenoid. Nothing should happen. If the starter turns on after it has been tested with the purple wire not attached at the starter solenoid. Then the purple wire is getting voltage from somewhere it shouldn’t. The firewall plug is the most likely place for this. Otherwise the purple wire is going to have to be followed from the starter, around the back of the engine and over to the firewall plug.
Starter relay, starter wire (purple wire) or starter solenoid are really the only things that can be wrong.
Here is a video about why there is a starter relay:
dc_cucv
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at the 6:40 mark you mentioned that you had the runaway starter and saw the white smoke under the hood like I did and you had three fusible links burn up. which one's burned up? that's probably the issue I'm having here since we had the same problem.
and yes I'm aware that a lot of stuff has been covered on here several times, but a lot of the times when you search you come up to dead links....
You're not listening. If the fusible link is burned up, it cannot put power to the starter solenoid. A burned fusible link is not why your starter is running when you hook up the battery. You either installed the starter wrong by having the small wire touching the big battery wire or your starter is bad. When he says the answers have been stated several times he's not talking about this entire site but this one thread.
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dc_cucv
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well if i have any that are burned up, I just want to take this time to get them replaced, that's why I asked. i'd rather get everything done in one swoop if i can.
I'm about to go drop the starter and verify all the wiring is intact and test the starter again if it by chance the two wires are touching.
one thing I am curious about is what location are the two un-marked areas I circled in red in the starting diagram? at first i thought they were the fuse box and ignition switch, but those are labeled and called out on the schematic.
I'm about to go drop the starter and verify all the wiring is intact and test the starter again if it by chance the two wires are touching.
one thing I am curious about is what location are the two un-marked areas I circled in red in the starting diagram? at first i thought they were the fuse box and ignition switch, but those are labeled and called out on the schematic.
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Those are the firewall connector halves.
Barrman
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The red circles are around the firewall plug. They show the location of the wire in the engine plug.
I should probably do a video about that plug. Because, it is actually 3 plugs held together by some plastic that doesn’t really hold them together. The front wiring harness, the engine harness and the rear wiring harness. Thankfully each individual plug in the group is shaped different so once you get it apart you will immediately be able to identify the plug in the wiring diagram.
The 12 volt power to run the truck is pulled from the negative of the rear battery. That red wire goes to the wiring harness block, engine. Which is the black diamond shaped thing on the firewall next to the glow plug relay. The wire from the rear battery is supposed to have a fuseable link but since you are getting ignition power yours should be good or has already been replaced. There are another 6 fuseable links attached to the 2 studs of the wiring harness block, engine. Some those are what burned up on my truck years and years ago.
I should probably do a video about that plug. Because, it is actually 3 plugs held together by some plastic that doesn’t really hold them together. The front wiring harness, the engine harness and the rear wiring harness. Thankfully each individual plug in the group is shaped different so once you get it apart you will immediately be able to identify the plug in the wiring diagram.
The 12 volt power to run the truck is pulled from the negative of the rear battery. That red wire goes to the wiring harness block, engine. Which is the black diamond shaped thing on the firewall next to the glow plug relay. The wire from the rear battery is supposed to have a fuseable link but since you are getting ignition power yours should be good or has already been replaced. There are another 6 fuseable links attached to the 2 studs of the wiring harness block, engine. Some those are what burned up on my truck years and years ago.
dc_cucv
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well, turns out the culprit on the new starter was the damn alignment tang on the main power wire going to the starter. couldn't tell in the picture I took yesterday with it mounted, but when I dropped it today and removed the wires, i noticed a small spot where the alignment tab thing was making contact with the signal wire tab.
Initially I was going to just cut the tang off, but i couldn't trim it down enough for my liking, so I decided to coat the signal connector with some liquid electrical tape. Was about to get it installed again, but then noticed I had a new 6ft 4g wire laying around without any tangs on it, so i ran a new main power wire to the starter and when i plugged in the batteries, VOILA, no cranking by itself.
I also took the time to replace the bad fusible link since I was outside in the cold anyways.
buttoned everything up and she fired right up.
Initially I was going to just cut the tang off, but i couldn't trim it down enough for my liking, so I decided to coat the signal connector with some liquid electrical tape. Was about to get it installed again, but then noticed I had a new 6ft 4g wire laying around without any tangs on it, so i ran a new main power wire to the starter and when i plugged in the batteries, VOILA, no cranking by itself.
I also took the time to replace the bad fusible link since I was outside in the cold anyways.
buttoned everything up and she fired right up.
dc_cucv
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yea, i had to replace the battery harness since the old one started to smoke and melt and had a bunch of char marks on the cables and the blue fusible link cable was split, so found this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/165995328953
kinda pricey and could have probably made my own cabling, but i was looking for easy plug and play.
dc_cucv
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This was the issue...a damn alignment tang. always the small stuff....
Barrman
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Glad you got it working.
I wish you would have posted you wanted that battery cable I have the same nos one for 50$. Glad you got it running though. That battery cable tang it supposed to go into the square just above it to index it.
nyoffroad
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I'm a little late to the party, but looking at the pic of new starter it looks like there is a crack in the plastic going downward from the 's' terminal . Did you use a backup wrench when tightening it? I don't remember but if that cracked perhaps the 's' terminal is making contact inside ?