• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Leaks everywhere!

thoner7

Active member
419
249
43
Location
NE TN
Idk if it’s the weather, but my truck [2009 m1165a1 REV] seemingly sprung power steering, front Diff, brake caliper(?) and a rear main seal(?) leak all witching the last few weeks.

1- how do I go about determining where my power steering is actually leaking from? Hoses? Fittings? Clamps!?
IMG_0150.jpeg
2- how do I determine if it’s my brake caliper that’s gone bad or, just oil from the diff?
IMG_0146.jpeg
IMG_0147.jpeg3 other than from the rear main seal, where could engine oil be leaking from, and coming out the trans weep hole?

—I’m thinking of just having an auto mechanic look at these issues, I’m a few hours from Kascar and could tow it there, or are some of these repairs easy enough a local shop could do it properly? The local place saves me the trip/cost of getting it there and is likely half the hourly rate. But I want it done right.
 

Coug

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,278
4,975
113
Location
Olympia/WA
There are oil additives that are used for leak detection that show up under ultraviolet light.
Basically clean everything up, add the dye to the system, and use an ultraviolet light to see where the oil is coming from. Much easier to see than just regular oil leaking, especially if done at night / low ligh conditions.

One example (no personal experience with this product)

Then you just need a UV light and safety glasses that filter UV to protect your eyes.
Example
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,996
4,175
113
Location
Brooklyn, NY
There are oil additives that are used for leak detection that show up under ultraviolet light.
Basically clean everything up, add the dye to the system, and use an ultraviolet light to see where the oil is coming from. Much easier to see than just regular oil leaking, especially if done at night / low ligh conditions.

One example (no personal experience with this product)

Then you just need a UV light and safety glasses that filter UV to protect your eyes.
Example
Excellent info Coug. I always forget that important option.

Not to steal your thunder, but some of us call the ultraviolet light a “black light”. Same thing used to look for radiator fluid leaks. Cheap to purchase.
 

WillWagner

I was dropped on my head as a child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
8,761
3,364
113
Location
Monrovia, Ca.
Auto mechanics don’t know Hummers and HMMWV’s, and are usually a very poor choice my friend.

Steam clean the engine bay and then look for leaks.
1st statement, ABSOLUTELY true! Second, no. Best bet is to start looking high on the engine/vehicle. Oil always finds it's way to the ground.

Washing or steaming it off will, most of the time not let you see where the leak originates or washes crap around the leak area temporarily stopping it.

Colder weather will cause a clamped hose to seep, if the weather has cooled in the last few weeks, could be as easy as that.

You need to determine what fluid is leaking. Feel it, smell it, taste it....yes, there is a difference in taste to fluids.

Look for the wet but clean spot, that will generally be your leak start point.

If the leak is being sprayed around from a rotating mass,

If you are unable to locate it, go to the drug store and pick up some spry foot powder OR a local craft store and get spray chalk, I think it is a Testors product, washes off and will fade away with no staining, get white, yellow, orange, not red or darker color.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,996
4,175
113
Location
Brooklyn, NY
1st statement, ABSOLUTELY true! Second, no. Best bet is to start looking high on the engine/vehicle. Oil always finds it's way to the ground.

Washing or steaming it off will, most of the time not let you see where the leak originates or washes crap around the leak area temporarily stopping it.

Colder weather will cause a clamped hose to seep, if the weather has cooled in the last few weeks, could be as easy as that.

You need to determine what fluid is leaking. Feel it, smell it, taste it....yes, there is a difference in taste to fluids.

Look for the wet but clean spot, that will generally be your leak start point.

If the leak is being sprayed around from a rotating mass,

If you are unable to locate it, go to the drug store and pick up some spry foot powder OR a local craft store and get spray chalk, I think it is a Testors product, washes off and will fade away with no staining, get white, yellow, orange, not red or darker color.
Respectfully my friend, when there is oil all over the place you will never find the leak. Cleaning the engine and then running the engine will allow leaks to become apparent.
 

thoner7

Active member
419
249
43
Location
NE TN
I have a black light, been trying to find my AC leak with it lol.

Perhaps I’ll try some of that additive.

I have no experience working on cars and while im beyond handy, simple repairs take me forever with the research, diagnostic, doing it twice to get it right, etc.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,996
4,175
113
Location
Brooklyn, NY
I have a black light, been trying to find my AC leak with it lol.

Perhaps I’ll try some of that additive.

I have no experience working on cars and while im beyond handy, simple repairs take me forever with the research, diagnostic, doing it twice to get it right, etc.
Wish I lived closer. I’d come on over.

Anyone of our members live in TN?
 

LCA078

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
340
244
43
Location
Austin, TX
All great info. Sometimes when there is so much oil being slung around, I start from scratch and do a pressure wash to find the fresh leak. And yes, the UV or blacklight works pretty well. Only a few drops will light up pretty well with the right UV light. Using UV dye was the only way I found a hairline crack on my old Ford Superduty 7.3l steering box. I kept losing fluid and it would drip on the driveway but I could not find the leak. Adding a few drops of dye and having my wife move the PS back/forth was the only way I could see the hairline crack open up under pressure from turning. Could easily see it at night, way easier than during the day.

But do your research as there are knock-off "UV" lights that are effectively white light with a deep purple filter on it. Good UV lights have a shorter wavelength like 365nm instead of the usual 395 or 400nm which may not fluoresce as much. It's worth the few extra bucks to get a good UV light and test it with your dye before you dump the dye into the oil.

Oh, and start with one simple thing that's easiest to change out, like maybe the engine oil. If you add the dye and verify it glows on the dipstick but it doesn't show on a leak, then you should be be able to rule it out before you move to the next thing like adding dye to power steering or diff.

Good luck. Leaks suck...
 

Thunderbirds

Well-known member
360
542
93
Location
Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Idk if it’s the weather, but my truck [2009 m1165a1 REV] seemingly sprung power steering, front Diff, brake caliper(?) and a rear main seal(?) leak all witching the last few weeks.

1- how do I go about determining where my power steering is actually leaking from? Hoses? Fittings? Clamps!?
View attachment 960095
2- how do I determine if it’s my brake caliper that’s gone bad or, just oil from the diff?
View attachment 960096
View attachment 9600973 other than from the rear main seal, where could engine oil be leaking from, and coming out the trans weep hole?

—I’m thinking of just having an auto mechanic look at these issues, I’m a few hours from Kascar and could tow it there, or are some of these repairs easy enough a local shop could do it properly? The local place saves me the trip/cost of getting it there and is likely half the hourly rate. But I want it done right.
.
One more simple way you could pursue is the "wash, dry, add baby powder". Give it a thorough wash, let it dry completely, maybe even with compressed air, or a leaf blower, then puff baby powder in the suspected areas. The powder will cling to any wet spot, so you may need to periodically add powder and inspect. That should let you find where it is leaking from, running down from or puddling up.

Best of luck.
 

m1010plowboy

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,007
3,063
83
Location
Edmonton, Canada
This just popped in my cranium and I don't like leaving stuff in there overnight so I'll share. Lots of bolts and hose clamps were loose as a Goose on my Deuce when I got it. After pulling the torque specs and getting the info that if we tighten pans too tight we can split gaskets, we put a wrench on every nut we could reach and re-torqued.......being careful. Is it worthwhile spending some time touching all your nuts and seeing if anything is obviously loose?
 

Bulldogger

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
1,484
889
113
Location
Quantico VA
I'll add that it's never a bad idea to replace hose clamps and other fittings around old tubing when you can. They also get stretched and worn out over time. Sourcing quality clamps has become harder, but as long as you don't hunt for the cheapest only, they can be found.
BDGR
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,727
4,914
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
first off…the leaking PS fluid can make it look like everything is leakin because it’s top down, ATF getting into everything especially while engine running, hose it all down in engine cleaner and pressure wash it up top and down below, I will not start a job like this till she’s all cleaned up.
makes troubleshooting and isolating the leaks a breeze, also have plenty of brake cleaner available.
check the hose clamp tension on the PS reservoir to Pump hoses.
 

osteo16

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
602
603
93
Location
Evansville, IN
There are oil additives that are used for leak detection that show up under ultraviolet light.
Basically clean everything up, add the dye to the system, and use an ultraviolet light to see where the oil is coming from. Much easier to see than just regular oil leaking, especially if done at night / low ligh conditions.

One example (no personal experience with this product)

Then you just need a UV light and safety glasses that filter UV to protect your eyes.
Example
Would be great if you add dye to each system seperately... Otherwise its moot.. Start with least volume system.. like power steering. Just my thoughts
..
 

thoner7

Active member
419
249
43
Location
NE TN
So, i meant it when I said I had no experience. And most times looking through the TMs I can’t even find what I’m looking for.

Is this thing the power steering reservoir? And that’s where I would add the dye?
IMG_0260.jpeg

And then separately : if this leak is brake fluid , it’s probably leaking from the caliper itself correct? Like one of the pistons? IMG_0261.jpeg
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,996
4,175
113
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Thoner…

Yes, that is the power steering reservoir. Don’t overfill or fluid will leak everywhere when it expands from heat. Ask me how I know.

Can’t confirm that leak is from brake caliper BECAUSE anything leaking above can leak down and make you think it is caliper. You need to wash, dry, and add fluorescent fluid one component at a time to see what is leaking. Also, is your master cylinder low? If not then this might be trickle down from another leak.
 
Last edited:

thoner7

Active member
419
249
43
Location
NE TN
That site glass was just covered in dust. It was full to the brim . I tightened two hose clamps that I hope are the source of my problem and added the dye . I didn’t drive it yet bc of all the rain we are having;figured it might rinse off.

PS: hose clamps on important systems seem like a poor choice.
 

Attachments

Top