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Little Bear Build

dwlindsey

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Where to get 12v 60 amps for doors?

I'm in the process of installing power windows, power door locks and the Cascadia mirrors on my M1088 A1. I've got the power window and door lock working passenger side and I'm snaking wires behind the dash for the window motor, door lock solenoid and Cascadia motorized mirrors.

The mirror heat needs a 40 amp fuse.

So I'm thinking that I need at least 60 amps. I've got some 6 gauge wire from another project. Where should I tap in to get the power? The door locks need to be NOT ignition switched. The mirror heat has a 10 minute timer so I guess it doesn't need to be ignition switched as well.

Until now I've not had the power distribution panel circuit board lifted up. I don't know how tricky that might be. I do see some spare fuse locations on the diagram.

Suggestions for where to tap 12 v power, at least 60 amps?
 

dwlindsey

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
232
183
43
Location
California
Where to get 12v 60 amps for doors?

I'm in the process of installing power windows, power door locks and the Cascadia mirrors on my M1088 A1. I've got the power window and door lock working passenger side and I'm snaking wires behind the dash for the window motor, door lock solenoid and Cascadia motorized mirrors.

The mirror heat needs a 40 amp fuse.

So I'm thinking that I need at least 60 amps. I've got some 6 gauge wire from another project. Where should I tap in to get the power? The door locks need to be NOT ignition switched. The mirror heat has a 10 minute timer so I guess it doesn't need to be ignition switched as well.

Until now I've not had the power distribution panel circuit board lifted up. I don't know how tricky that might be. I do see some spare fuse locations on the diagram.

Suggestions for where to tap 12 v power, at least 60 amps?
I figured it out, unswitched 12 volt lug in the PDP
 

AKPacker

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Anchorage, AK
I'm installing power window motors

Here's a link to a YouTube short: Power window motor

After this was shot, I lubricated it and its a bit less noisy now
Nice, what kit did you use? The regulator fell apart inside the door on my driver's side window so I'm at a crossroads on whether to repair the manual system or go with power windows.
 

dwlindsey

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Location
California
Nice, what kit did you use? The regulator fell apart inside the door on my driver's side window so I'm at a crossroads on whether to repair the manual system or go with power windows.
This is what I used:

JDMSPEED New Universal Electric Power Window Lift Regulator Conversion Kit with Switches Wiring and Hardware for 2 Door Pickup SUV Truck Van Car

It fit onto the OEM window regulator where the hand crank screws on. So if your regulator is broken, you'd need to fix that first
 

hike

—realizing each day
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Texas Hill Country
This is what I used:

JDMSPEED New Universal Electric Power Window Lift Regulator Conversion Kit with Switches Wiring and Hardware for 2 Door Pickup SUV Truck Van Car

It fit onto the OEM window regulator where the hand crank screws on. So if your regulator is broken, you'd need to fix that first
We installed this same kit two years ago. Works well, so nice to be able to open passenger side from driver's seat—
 

dwlindsey

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Location
California
Slow progress today. Everything takes longer than it should when working on these trucks. I've fished the wires for the power mirrors, power windows and power door locks behind the dash and I've got them routed into the doors. After this video I cleaned up the wires and got the door lock wires hooked to an unswitched mini fuse panel and the windows to an ignition switched mini fuse panel. I'll do the mirror wiring tomorrow.

 

dwlindsey

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Location
California
I replaced the stock mirrors on the cab with the Freightliner Cascadia mirrors. In addition to the threaded holes that held the old mirror on, there were some open holes under the lower mirror bracket. I cut some small steel discs and welded them into those holes. I'm going to put some button head bolts into the threaded holes top and bottom and paint over them . . . but the open holes needed to go. It was the first time I've used a MIG welder . . . fortunately I have a grinder . . .
https://youtube.com/shorts/5Et_oJAJTVg
 

dwlindsey

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Location
California
Drivers side cab bushing replacement - I removed the bumper so that I could get at it better. The nut came off the bolt easily and the old rubber bushings flaked off. They were still there, but completely rotten. Now I'm stuck for a bit, because I can't get the bolt out. The sleeve is frozen onto the bolt. Penetrating oil goes down around the bolt head and wets the threads at the end of the bolt, but the sleeve won't come loose. I'm done for the night. I'll get back at it in the morning. Absent better advice I may put a torch on the sleeve tomorrow and see if some heat will break it loose
 

dwlindsey

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
232
183
43
Location
California
Today we installed Furrion side cameras with LED marker lights in place of the original marker lights. The mounting hole spacing is different than the original, so we installed some rivnuts (nutcerts). Eventually we'll add the rear camera to the system, but that might wait until after the habitat box is mounted

 
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