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Log of my M1165. Project Joshua.

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Installed!!!IMG_9095.jpegIMG_9102.jpegIMG_9094.jpegIMG_9090.jpegIMG_9087.jpeg
Over a year ago, I purchased this pop-up clamshell tent delivered for less than $800 from Temu. Now I see they’re being sold for over$1100 - $1600.

(I no longer purchase on Temu because I had to do a chargeback on a bait and switch that Temu tried not to refund! But I digress…)

Robust nylon canvas and comfortable mattress. Comes with a ladder and mounting hardware and fiberglass stakes to keep the awning open , (which I have not shown) This thing is thin when closed! It can’t be thicker than 7 inches collapsed. The Aluminum alloy clamshell seems robust. Mattress seems ok. Ladder could be stronger but seems ok. Finish is peeling. I’m happy with the purchase, but sadly will avoid that vendor in the future.

Anyway, looking forward to lots of adventures.
 
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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Future plans:

A/C leaking. Gonna kill the rear double a/c fender mounted units. Evaporator will be my stockpiled brandy new Red Dot. Will mount UNDER the tent. Perfect area that takes NO space.

Rear window.

Windshield camera with backup.

Heat and soundproofing.

Stereo.

Already installed :

3000 Watt 24-110V inverter for electrics like walker talkies and cell phones and Starlinks.

Second inverter 4000 Watt 24-220V for welder.

24 volt boxed military power impact kit

Second military 24 V impact gun (gun only) just for wheels

110/220 V flux core welder.

M1152 rear seat fillers that act as a floor for a bed and as a compartment to hide the tools. Rear seats are gone but can be reinstalled in a hot minute.
 
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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Looking nice with the roof top tent up there! I miss the one I had a few years ago!
Let’s get you to build a new one!

4 door ECV hard tops won’t even need the exocage I built, because mine is an older generation 12 gauge steel top. The newer thick Aluminum “Flying Nun” tops on M1151’s and M1165’s will be awesome for you. They can easily accept the weight of a pop-top camper, as-is.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Pictures speak a thousand words…IMG_2565.jpeg

Replaced glow-plugs 1,3,5,2. Plugs 7/8 snapped and will be welded to nuts and twisted out this Summer. Plug 6 is stripped and needs a nut welded to it to remove… also Summer. Plug 4 is no-man’s land and might never attempt it. Crazy tight there.

Engine starts at 40 degrees F immediately on just 4 active plugs that are activated for just 4-seconds using my Genius Box.

When I move my batteries under the hood I will cut down that compartment and place the other Nissan seat for a matched set. Until then the original passenger seat remains.
 
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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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And with a little help from Harbor Freight, new STEEL B-pillars are born.

Tomorrow will assess fitment, re-bend where needed, drill holes for frame attachments and shoulder harnesses, and then cut to size and weld.
 

Attachments

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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Crappy weather. No welding today.

Fixed the windshield wipers with new hose, new sprayers, and a couple of three way tubes. Looks passible.

Vacuumed out the truck. Dust, dirt, Joshua Tree needles and bark, screws, nuts and bolts everywhere.

Oh yeah, plugged the hole where Lizzy Borden removed the deep-fording-valve in the dash. Much quieter and almost no more engine odors. Looks prettier too.


IMG_2851.jpeg
 
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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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From this point forward I have decided to take BLKHMMWV’s advice. He is correct.

Maintenace and repairs here, and customizations in the Modified Forum.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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New-to-me spare tire was leaking after I mounted tire/runflat on rim, so I needed to fix.

I watched the Feltz tire YouTube video and then got to work. Last time I used sockets that weren’t deep enough to properly tighten the halves all the way down. This time I got it right.

I pulled the split rim apart. I sanded and washed the inner rims at the O-rings and tire beads until they were clean and smooth.

I lubed up all rubber-metal surfaces with Mother’s tire mounting lube.

I marked the area for the valve on the rim and placed the runflat to correspond on the inner half rim.

I dribbled Slime green stuff in the O-ring channel. I placed the O-ring and dribbled more Slime.

I carefully placed the outer rim and tightened in a cross pattern.

Then I tightened the snot out of all the wheel lugs.

Success! My wheel holds air!!!

Using MTR’s as spares and BFG as primary tires.IMG_2961.jpeg

In the above pic you will see a wet spot. That was proof that my wheel bolts were not tight enough. Slime was leaking. I then torqued to spec. Leak stopped and next day pressure seemed solid.

EDIT - Still holding pressure 02-26-2026. Looks like a successful install.
 
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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Will need to assess the TPS.

Uphill highway the rig slips down and back into third and won’t go back into 4’th. I stay stuck at 45 MPH.

Original IP was swapped and TPS was put in approximately the correct position. It either moved or was not correct.

On flat roads I shift properly. Rig hits 62 MPH in forth without an issue on flat highway.
 
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Thunderbirds

Well-known member
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Northern Black Hills South Dakota

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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You’re correct.

Believe it or not, I was surprised that I didn’t need it at all. I pried two times on each side of the runflat and it just fell in! I was amazed.

Feltz Tires recommends dish soap or tire lube. In California I used Mother’s to seal up the spare tire and it was awesome.

They say BFG tires are easier than Goodyear. Softer sidewalls IIRC. Maybe that’s why it was so easy. I also had the runflat cranked down narrow, which made a HUGE difference.
 

TNDRIVER

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I went from struggling with 2” ratchet strap to 10 minute painless runflats insertion with a 4” ratcheting strap.

Four more to go.

View attachment 963035View attachment 963037View attachment 963038View attachment 963039
I might suggest with either the 2 or 4 inch straps you cut off all but the necessary length needed to wrap the runflat and of course you have to swap the strap from one end to the other on the ratchet. By cutting off the excess you don't have a ball of strap to contend with, and I think a 2 in is about at its limit on the one piece runflat. My 2 cents for anyone wanting to attempt this.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Brooklyn, NY
I might suggest with either the 2 or 4 inch straps you cut off all but the necessary length needed to wrap the runflat and of course you have to swap the strap from one end to the other on the ratchet. By cutting off the excess you don't have a ball of strap to contend with, and I think a 2 in is about at its limit on the one piece runflat. My 2 cents for anyone wanting to attempt this.
If you cut the ends you need to also burn/anneal them to prevent them from unraveling.

I will use these 5400 lb. rated straps for heavy loads so I will probably not cut them. They are expensive and I would prefer not to need to repurchase.

For others, you are absolutely correct.
 
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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Well, someone needed an alignment!

Planning to offroad again. Vehicle had horrible oversteering in turns on highway. Felt dangerous. Now after alignment feels more appropriate and ready for th highway and for the trail. Uses 1998 alignment specs. IMG_4434.jpeg

IMG_4435.jpeg
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,994
4,173
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Location
Brooklyn, NY
After the alignment I had her out on the road. On a flat road she felt amazing. Before I noticed I was “buried speedometer” MPH and lots of RPM. She had more power to go BUT I’m not dangerous and I’m not gonna push her like that.

I immediately slowed down.

Uphill is a chore. Uphill while gunning her to see what she would do, she hit 220. Otherwise she sits pretty in the middle of the green, even over 65 MPH.
 
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