M45 Compressor truck

[rdixiemiller]

I have a cab that is much better than yours. If I had realized who you were when you were coming this way, I could have gotten it off for you. I live about 3 hours from Joel on the West side of Atlanta. If you make another trip, I can hook you up with a cab.
I would seriously consider replacing the compressor tanks. A failure can have catastrophic consequences, like kill you and take the truck cab and fenders right off.

 

[JDToumanian]

I would seriously consider replacing the compressor tanks. A failure can have catastrophic consequences, like kill you and take the truck cab and fenders right off.

I was thinking the same thing... judging by the amount of rust on that truck, I doubt the tank is in any better condition. If you want to use that one, I would open the dome and take a look... have it untrasounded by a pressure vessel inspector to determine shell thickness and then hydro-tested. A big tank with a dome like that would be very spendy indeed, so hopefully it is heavily built enough that it is still okay to use - there are steam locomotives from the 1920s still around using their original air tanks - but I'd definitely make sure!

Jon

 

[Crazyguyla]

RDM- I'd appreciate the cab. I'll have to see when i'll be back in the south again. I plan on getting new tanks for the air system. When i let the truck run, I keep the tanks open for safety.

Jon- I do plan to have the compressor tank inspected before putting any pressure on it. Since there are boiler makers around New Orleans, I'm sure I can find someone to check the condition. I figure the shell thickness is somewhere between .5" to 1" thick. The oil from the compressor was also stored in the same tank, so it's either nice and oily or nice and sludgy in the tank. In a perfect world, I could bring it in to class when we study nondestructive testing *L*

 

[steelsoldiers]

Just don't fall through the floor on the way home! Kinda reminds me of a M1009 I had once. The floor mat hid all the cancer and kept valuables from hitting the highway It was a little "spongy" though. As for fiberglass, I did a major overlay on my first M1009 with it. It was sturdy, but it also trapped moisture and encourage more rust. After I bought a Mig and learned to use it, I fixed for good with new steel.

 

[DDoyle]

There will be a relief valve in the air system, which by law (at least here in TN) must be inspected/certified periodically. I think its about 25 bucks here - which I consider darn cheap insurance!

Regards,
David Doyle

 

[Elwenil]

I agree with Chris, after doing the fiberglass bit once, I'll never do it again. If you could keep it all sealed and dry it would be ok, but that's near impossible and before long it has eat out all the metal around the fiberglass and there's nothing to hold it in. Especially with a MV that isn't really known for being water tight, there's nothing better then replacing rusted steel with more steel. Nothing else will last as long or be more structurally sound. The fiberglass doesnt bond well enough with the metal and isn't strong enough in thin layers to keep everything rigid. Just my .02 Looks like a nice project, good luck with getting her back operational.

 

[Capt.Marion]

mmm... Fe2O3

have fun

 

[Crazyguyla]

I have the manuals on the compressor.

i'm working to convert the manuals to PDF and have them uploaded.

I finally converted the maint manuals to PDF format and they're uploaded and approved. The TM series is TM 5-4310-207. I know the -10 is missing pages, copied what I needed before the library closed. I still have to convert the -20p and -35p to PDF.

Does anyone have a copy of TM 9-2320-209-35? I'm looking for the breakdown and repair of the non solid state 25 Amp Voltage regulator.

Last question, is it normal for the generator to overcharge ( 29 -31v ) if the batteries are weak?

 

[Recovry4x4]

Marcus, I've got the 35 at home in paper. When I get home I'll have a looksee.

 

[Crazyguyla]

After spending the holidays at home, I was able to do a little work on my truck. I should have taken pictures when the work was being done, c'est la vie. Here are the things I did this time around:

Installed new doors, bows, top, and windshield.

The cab still looks like swiss cheese on the inside, but that's for another day. Next big project is to replace all the wheel cylinders and get the brakes working again. Then work on making the cab less holey. The truck runs and sounds nice with the new exhaust. It's starting to look more like a truck than the basket case I first bought

Here is a related thread on the truck: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/11680-runs-maybe-not.html

 

[Crazyguyla]

Spent this morning making new gaskets for the float bowl. I have some on order, but I'm impatient. I was able to get the engine running after filling the float bowl with fresh gas. It ran nice until it started pulling the old stale, 5 year old gas from the tank. I'm not sure if all cylinders are firing, but it sounds smooth. https://youtu.be/WHbQcJ_WagY

 

[Awol]

Still chugging along I see!

The rust really isn't all that bad. I guess being up north, we find rust repair like that normal.

 

[dmetalmiki]

Thank you for..'rescuing' that truck.

 

[Crazyguyla]

Moving day is near

I drove the truck out of the backyard and to the front of the house. It will be picked up in a few weeks and transported to my new home in Florida. It's nice to be retired and have time to devote to my truck. Its going to need all new tires, torque rods, cab, and just a little bit of body work and paint. Once it arrives, I'll pull off the cab and compressor so it'll be easier to work on. What is the easiest way to loosen lower brake adjustment, the ones with the 1-1/8 inch nut. All mine are frozen and can't get the rear brake drums loose.

 

[SCM35A2]

I drove the truck out of the backyard and to the front of the house. It will be picked up in a few weeks and transported to my new home in Florida. It's nice to be retired and have time to devote to my truck. Its going to need all new tires, torque rods, cab, and just a little bit of body work and paint. Once it arrives, I'll pull off the cab and compressor so it'll be easier to work on. What is the easiest way to loosen lower brake adjustment, the ones with the 1-1/8 inch nut. All mine are frozen and can't get the rear brake drums loose.



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Awesome looking project!

 

[Crazyguyla]

After some time and Florida, I moved to Oklahoma. Finally getting down to finishing the brakes and servicing the front axle. Replacing all the 1/4 brake lines on the axles and the flexible lines/wheel cylinders on the front axle.

Next, remove the knuckle and finish cleaning.

That boot has seen better days.

That axle is showing its age. No slop or play, but all the grease is gold color from the GAA mixing with mud. So much fun.

The inner bearing came off in pieces. Slightly crispy.

Grease, dirt and wasp nests. Besides dirt and water, those boots keep out wasps too.

Might do a video on repacking the CV joint and use of lacing wire on the zipper boots.

 

[Crazyguyla]

I was thinking the same thing... judging by the amount of rust on that truck, I doubt the tank is in any better condition. If you want to use that one, I would open the dome and take a look... have it untrasounded by a pressure vessel inspector to determine shell thickness and then hydro-tested. A big tank with a dome like that would be very spendy indeed, so hopefully it is heavily built enough that it is still okay to use - there are steam locomotives from the 1920s still around using their original air tanks - but I'd definitely make sure!

Jon

Jon,

I finally removed the manhole cover on the tank. the inside was clean and oily. The tank is also the oil reservoir for the compressor. I will get it inspected once, if ever I find the parts needed for the compressor's engine.