Hello, I just purchased and white hercules d298 engine. Putting it in an old oliver crawler. Can anyone help me with hooking up a mechanical tachometer. And also which sensors are for the coolant temp , and oil pressure sensor? Any help greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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Mep005 generator engine. Hercules white d298
- Thread starter kevnam
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- 18,730
- 28,630
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- Burgkunstadt, Germany
Where you see the speed switch, directly below it is the adapter to screw it into. There you can add the tac cable.
Where you see the oil press switch, is where the army hooks up the oil press switch.
Below.
Item #11 is where the temp sender is located.
Item # 15 is where the over temp switch goes.
Where you see the oil press switch, is where the army hooks up the oil press switch.
Below.
Item #11 is where the temp sender is located.
Item # 15 is where the over temp switch goes.
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2Pbfeet
Well-known member
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@Guyfang I keep being amazed at the knowledge you have and can find.
Is that really a White Hercules manual in german? ("Schaubild 1"?)
All the best, 2PbFeet
Is that really a White Hercules manual in german? ("Schaubild 1"?)
All the best, 2PbFeet
- 18,730
- 28,630
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
No. There is one in German. But I don't have a copy. I just copied the picture and then put it in a PDF so I could write on it.
Thanks guyfang, then, I should be able to screw the big beer can sized electrical thing of of where the tach should go. And replace the multi-pin sensor/switch on the tee going to the oilf ilter, with a standard pressure switch , correct? ..... Also there is a single screw/wire sensor on the passenger side of the motor too. I was thinking it was an oil pressure switch or temp switch also. It would be great to have both temp and pressure gauges for the oil. But oi
Pressure is my main concern. Thank you very much.
Pressure is my main concern. Thank you very much.
- 18,730
- 28,630
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
The Speed Switch is something you can hold onto and sell. Hard to come by part.
Attachments
Above. In the pics. You can see the switch on the right side(injection pump side). It's the one screw wire switch. I assume this is also a pressure switch?. And also on the left side, there is a temp switch near the front . But also a square plate with another type of switch thread into it, with a multi pin hook up. I assume this is also a military generator temp switch hookup?. Thanks. I'll try not to be too annoying with all my questions, lol.
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That sensor on the side is in an oil galley so it would be a oip pressure sensor. Another cle is the word "oli" next to it. LOL.
- 18,730
- 28,630
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
Above. In the pics. You can see the switch on the right side(injection pump side). It's the one screw wire switch. I assume this is also a pressure switch? (Correct). And also on the left side, there is a temp switch near the front . (Correct) But also a square plate with another type of switch thread into it, with a multi pin hook up. I assume this is also a military generator temp switch hookup? (Over temp switch. It kills the gen set when the temp gets too high.). Thanks. I'll try not to be too annoying with all my questions, lol.
Questions are good. If you want to sell parts, please read the forum rules on solicitation.
Questions are good. If you want to sell parts, please read the forum rules on solicitation.
Thanks a million guyfang, this helps greatly. The tachometer drive came off nicely yesterday.ni just need to find an adapter of some sort for the tach. It now has a female thread for the hookup., and I can't find a make threaded cable.
As far as selling things.. I'm pretty old school, not on social media platforms, so I will try placing ads locally. I will have a lot to sell, as I am removing oem flywheel and be housing also. My crawler has a one size only bellhousing ang clutch. $$$$ in machining I think. If I could find a #3 bellhousing, it would solve a lot of issues, but impossible in my search.
Going to try to pull the injectors to put oil in each cylinder this week. Engine is dry and has been sitting 20 years+... I turned crank with breaker bar. Turns very hard, so only moved it slightly. Pulled side timing cover off injection pump, and it's full of brown sludge. I have to get the ring marks aligned before pulling flywheel, so I can get the new flywheel timed and marked before installing the engine.
As far as the pump goes, I have cleaner pipes into inlet and outlet, hoping to dissolve sludge. Hard to do though. Until I can get engine turning out to suck it in. Otherwise, the pump is going to have to get pulled and gone thru (probly cost as much as the engine,lol).
Hopefully, this all turns out ok. I am a farmer and I know the bio fuels help us., but the bio in the diesel wreaks havoc . If it sits for any long term, it turns to sludge and grows bacterias.
As far as the pump goes, I have cleaner pipes into inlet and outlet, hoping to dissolve sludge. Hard to do though. Until I can get engine turning out to suck it in. Otherwise, the pump is going to have to get pulled and gone thru (probly cost as much as the engine,lol).
Hopefully, this all turns out ok. I am a farmer and I know the bio fuels help us., but the bio in the diesel wreaks havoc . If it sits for any long term, it turns to sludge and grows bacterias.
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You have the later 298DD engine there. The early one had the fuel pump on the side, like a distributor (they sold it in a gas version, too). One tough mama, 7 main bearings with typical Herc design. Can't remember if it had the long bolts clear thru the block, from main caps to head. Hard on the wallet to overhaul, but most of them in the wild were the military versions with very low hours. They built it in a 4-cyl version, too.
G744
G744
- 18,730
- 28,630
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
Download the -34 TM for instructions for timing the Engine/IP. If the engine has sat for 20 years, its seen no Bio crap fuel. I would time the engine/IP pull the IP and let it sit in kerosene a few days. Let it drip dry and put it back in. I would bet more than my lunch money that it would fire up and run just fine.
On top of the IP, where the little red cap is. The "T" fitting. Underneath the "T" fitting is what looks like a normal brass fitting. Its not. Its a check valve. Make sure you clean it out.
I am sure I don't need to tell you how to replace the IP. But do rub some grease on the two seals on the IP shaft. The right hand seal tends to roll over when reinserting. And if the oil pan fills up with fuel ultra fast, the seal rolled over.
I would keep the engine over temp switch. Have it turn on an idiot light on the crawler dash.
Some of these engines, back in the day, had been rebuilt a good number of times. The crank, was worn at the front and rear main seals. Its just a tad worn, but after a few weeks of running, started to drip. Front and rear. So keep an eye out for it. We had a whole fleet of em leaking. Tear it down and replace the front and rear main, and....................... a few weeks later, the same thing. White engines had a replacement set of seals. The army answer was to simply put new cranks in em. I love this engine. Its a work horse. I never saw an engine self destruct. And we ran em 24/7, 365 days a year.
On top of the IP, where the little red cap is. The "T" fitting. Underneath the "T" fitting is what looks like a normal brass fitting. Its not. Its a check valve. Make sure you clean it out.
I am sure I don't need to tell you how to replace the IP. But do rub some grease on the two seals on the IP shaft. The right hand seal tends to roll over when reinserting. And if the oil pan fills up with fuel ultra fast, the seal rolled over.
I would keep the engine over temp switch. Have it turn on an idiot light on the crawler dash.
Some of these engines, back in the day, had been rebuilt a good number of times. The crank, was worn at the front and rear main seals. Its just a tad worn, but after a few weeks of running, started to drip. Front and rear. So keep an eye out for it. We had a whole fleet of em leaking. Tear it down and replace the front and rear main, and....................... a few weeks later, the same thing. White engines had a replacement set of seals. The army answer was to simply put new cranks in em. I love this engine. Its a work horse. I never saw an engine self destruct. And we ran em 24/7, 365 days a year.
Toolslinger
Well-known member
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Herc knew how to build an engine... I have a 1948 Diamond T 404 with a JXB (gas) engine, and it runs just beutifully with very few complaints over the 50+ years it's been in my family...
Thanks for all the info guys. I love the hercs also. This d298 is going to replace the old djxc in ,y crawler right now. I got the djxc running pretty good actually, but it had tons of blowby and 220 psi on all the cylinders. Found rings , but the liners are different in this olive crawler, co,pared to the standard djxc engines. And I could not find any liners anywhere....,so decided to replace the engine with a newer version. My smaller Oliver crawler has the factory d198 hercules and it has been a workhorse, so I'm sure this d298 is really going to be a strong engine.