Quick disconnect to fan

[YouWannaUmana]

Gents,

Have a leaking quick disconnect line to fan clutch. Looking to replace line with another new line with quick disconnect however, looks like I may just be able to connect without the disconnect. Looking for some images for reference of it connected directly. Any part suggestions would be appreciated.

Also can this be done without having to removing cooling stack. Any tips on getting it done?

I have a 6.5 turbo with serpentine belt.

 

[DREDnot]

I could never get my hand in and bent around backward to undo the hose at the bulkhead fitting. I recommend sucking it up and removing the stack. That way you can replace the leaking parts and give a good cleaning between the radiators that cant really be seen or done any other way. Once you get started it is not as bad as it looks. Have a helper though.

 

[frauhansen]

I could never get my hand in and bent around backward to undo the hose at the bulkhead fitting.

Same here, but only from above. Try it from under the truck.. way easyer. Unless you have hands like toilet seats. Then it doesn't matter either.


Same here... leeking quick connect after I opened it unnecessarily.

Isn't that stupid? With the old V-belt versions, you HAVE to open the line to change the belt, but there is no quick connect.

With the serpentine belt version, you don't have to open the line, but you get the “gift” of a leaking quick connector.

 

[FlameRed]

I am not one of the forum experts, and not the best wrench, but I was able to change over without disassembling any of the cooling stack.

Words of wisdom - the first quick disconnect I purchased leaked internally. This is the one that came with the hoses. So I had to buy a second set, and these were rock solid and they were recommended by others on the forum:

• Parker Hannifin H1-62 Series 60 Steel Multi-Purpose Quick Coupler with Female Pipe Thread
• Parker Hannifin H3-63 Series 60 Steel Multi-Purpose Quick Nipple with Female Pipe Thread

Just put on mechanics gloves and a long sleeve shirt so you don't cut up your arms. I just used SAE wrenches and some patience.

Sure makes installing belts easier!

 

[Coug]

I went into my local hydraulics shop, and got an off the shelf fitting from them. Standard hydraulic disconnect, not application specific like the one for the HMMWV (they looked up the part number on the fitting and the book said it was for the HMMWV). They could order the specific replacement, but the off the shelf component is used pretty much everywhere and can be purchased anywhere if for some reason it did ever fail.

 

[YouWannaUmana]

I am not one of the forum experts, and not the best wrench, but I was able to change over without disassembling any of the cooling stack.

Words of wisdom - the first quick disconnect I purchased leaked internally. This is the one that came with the hoses. So I had to buy a second set, and these were rock solid and they were recommended by others on the forum:

• Parker Hannifin H1-62 Series 60 Steel Multi-Purpose Quick Coupler with Female Pipe Thread
• Parker Hannifin H3-63 Series 60 Steel Multi-Purpose Quick Nipple with Female Pipe Thread

Just put on mechanics gloves and a long sleeve shirt so you don't cut up your arms. I just used SAE wrenches and some patience.

Sure makes installing belts easier!

Did you find it best to work through the top/bottom?

 

[YouWannaUmana]

I could never get my hand in and bent around backward to undo the hose at the bulkhead fitting. I recommend sucking it up and removing the stack. That way you can replace the leaking parts and give a good cleaning between the radiators that cant really be seen or done any other way. Once you get started it is not as bad as it looks. Have a helper though.

View attachment 961859

How long did it take to remove it and put it back together?

 

[Mogman]

Gents,

Have a leaking quick disconnect line to fan clutch. Looking to replace line with another new line with quick disconnect however, looks like I may just be able to connect without the disconnect. Looking for some images for reference of it connected directly. Any part suggestions would be appreciated.

Also can this be done without having to removing cooling stack. Any tips on getting it done?

I have a 6.5 turbo with serpentine belt.

It does not appear you have the flair fitting on your hose that is shown in the replacement kit, otherwise you could remove the coupler, if you get the kit you can just use the hose and the flair fitting that is in the female coupler and that will work.
I just put V belts on a 07 R1 that had the coupling and it was a little easier, still a royal pain.
If I was repairing a serpentine truck I would not install the coupler, as stated just another failure point.

 

[FlameRed]

Did you find it best to work through the top/bottom?

Top

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I’ve never had to remove the stack to replace one, I have large forearms….so it can be done, you just aren’t trying hard enough.
I’ve replaced quite a few…note, there are IIRC, about 3 different Variants, so if you can get the same variant QD side, you don’t have to replace
clutch side, what leaks on these is the o-ring, so you can also try that first.
The different variants are silver finish and gold finish, one body is longer than the other, so they are not cross compatible.
once the QD is disconnected, feed the hose to the top drivers side through the fan blade and work on it from above to swap the new end on, because the new o-ring is fresh, it’s going to take some pressure to get it seat while you hold the sleeve backwards to seat it…turn you body under the truck to get the best leverag, don’t worry about doing it visually, just feel….it ain’t that bad,

 

[YouWannaUmana]

I’ve never had to remove the stack to replace one, I have large forearms….so it can be done, you just aren’t trying hard enough.
I’ve replaced quite a few…note, there are IIRC, about 3 different Variants, so if you can get the same variant QD side, you don’t have to replace
clutch side, what leaks on these is the o-ring, so you can also try that first.
The different variants are silver finish and gold finish, one body is longer than the other, so they are not cross compatible.
once the QD is disconnected, feed the hose to the top drivers side through the fan blade and work on it from above to swap the new end on, because the new o-ring is fresh, it’s going to take some pressure to get it seat while you hold the sleeve backwards to seat it…turn you body under the truck to get the best leverag, don’t worry about doing it visually, just feel….it ain’t that bad,

I own a HMMWV m1123 and you put in the 6.5 Turbo engine, I bought it from someone that you did the work for. I ended up buying a fan clutch delete kit. what are your thoughts? I know you are the guy to ask. Kit is from war tech performance

Heavy Duty Engine Cooling Kit (HMMWV Serpentine Belts) | WARTECH PERFORMANCE

Is your HMMWV running hot at 210-230°F and losing engine power when the fan engages? Upgrade your outdated hydraulic fan setup with our advanced thermostatic cooling kit. The stock HMMWV system, designed to run hot to efficiently burn multi-fuel and JP8 (jet fuel), is ideal for a military...

www.wartechperformance.com

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I own a HMMWV m1123 and you put in the 6.5 Turbo engine, I bought it from someone that you did the work for. I ended up buying a fan clutch delete kit. what are your thoughts? I know you are the guy to ask. Kit is from war tech performance

Heavy Duty Engine Cooling Kit (HMMWV Serpentine Belts) | WARTECH PERFORMANCE

Is your HMMWV running hot at 210-230°F and losing engine power when the fan engages? Upgrade your outdated hydraulic fan setup with our advanced thermostatic cooling kit. The stock HMMWV system, designed to run hot to efficiently burn multi-fuel and JP8 (jet fuel), is ideal for a military...

www.wartechperformance.com

The hydraulic fan delete kits are a good option, either from the one you bought or from Mike at BDC….I use my own home grown kit, we don’t sell them unless I install them myself in the shop, but it’s a nice change for the person who doesn’t monitor temps and you don’t have to worry about the old style setup failing.

 

[YouWannaUmana]

The hydraulic fan delete kits are a good option, either from the one you bought or from Mike at BDC….I use my own home grown kit, we don’t sell them unless I install them myself in the shop, but it’s a nice change for the person who doesn’t monitor temps and you don’t have to worry about the old style setup failing.

I would take my humvee to you but in los angeles and it would be a trek and have a pretty bad leak so would have to tow.

Mike didnt have any in stock for the kit or else I would have bought from him.