Rebuilding the Injection pump

[rustystud]

I installed the governor "spyder" today. In picture 1 you can see the assembly lube I used on the bushing in the main housing. Picture 2 shows the governor heating up. Picture 3 shows the cam shaft installed ready for the governor to be installed. Picture shows the governor installed. Even though I had the cam shaft in the freezer and heated up the governor it still took some persuasion with a brass punch to seat it.

 

[CARNAC]

I have a brand new ambac if you don't want to repair that one

 

[doghead]

Me too...

 

[rustystud]

I have a brand new ambac if you don't want to repair that one

What fun is that ? That is half the fun of owning one of these trucks. Being able to rebuild what is broken and bringing it all back to life is what mechanics do. I might be retired now but I'm still a mechanic .

 

[rustystud]

Pic 1 shows the main bearing retainer installed. Pic 2 shows the "timing hub" being installed. I used the gear nut to tighten the hub in place (55 ft Ibs) then installed the "cam shaft nut" and using my spanner wrench held it in place while tightening it. Then I installed the set screw (25 ft Ibs) picture 4 . Picture 5 shows the "quill shaft" and picture 6 shows it installed. I installed the timing hub first since I could hold it and align the scribe mark (pic 7) while installing the quill shaft since the "open" area (pic 6) needs to align with the casting mark near the piston. This is very similar to installing a distributor on an engine as the gear rotates as it is installed. Picture 8 shows the piston and spring and retainer. Picture 9 shows the piston installed. Remember there is an alignment pin the piston slides on. You can see it in picture 6 .

 

[rustystud]

Picture 1 shows the piston spring installed. Picture 2 shows the snap-ring and picture 3 shows the retainer and snap-ring installed.

This last picture shows the two pumps I'm assembling. Out of the seven pumps I disassembled, I only got enough good parts to make-up two good pumps. These are very robust pumps though. Everyone of them had been rebuilt several times. One had been rebuilt over 3 times. So all in all that is not to bad for a precision unit.

 

[rustystud]

There was one last thing I forgot to mention about the LDS versus the LDT pumps. The first picture shows the different lengths of spring used for the timing advance on the pumps. The one on the left is from the LDS and the longer one is from the LDT pump. The shorter springs on the LDS would allow the pump to advance quicker then the LDT pump. This does not increase the amount of fuel but it would allow for a faster revving engine.

 

[rustystud]

First off I just want to say that this whole thread is not a step by step instruction for the assembly of the deuce injection pump. It is an aid to the TM manual. There are spots where the TM falls short in explanations and hopefully this thread will help. In pictures one and two I'm checking the end-play of the "timing device" . The TM does not show clearly where to measure from. It is from the base to the end of the thrust-washer. I see my pictures of checking the input shaft end-play did not come out so I will take new pictures tomorrow. Picture three shows the input shaft and the two "selective" thrust-washers. Pictures four and five show the correct way to install the washer and timing device to the input shaft and weights. Picture six shows the assembly ready for the housing to be installed. Picture seven shows the long bolt (bolts into the pump flange) which must be installed at the same time the housing is. Picture eight shows the two pumps now with the front housings installed.

 

[rustystud]

This is just a little bit of trivia but still interesting. As far as I know there where at least two manufactures of the deuce injection pump. The first is of course "American Bosch" . The second was "United Technologies" . United Technologies made the housings thicker then Bosch did as seen in pictures one through five. The last picture shows the governor housing. The Bosch pump is on the left and the United Technologies is on the right. Note the position of the end cap bolts.
The internal parts are all identical though. Just something interesting I thought I would share.

 

[frank8003]

from post #32
"What had happened was the "Primary" filter had not been changed and allowed garbage to enter the booster pump. Remember, the only filtering the booster pump gets is from the first "Primary" filter."

So gear pump dies + truck don't go no more.
Thanks rustystud

 

[rustystud]

I need to mention this little screw. It blocks off the pumps main oil pressure. If it comes loose or you forget to install it after a rebuild you will loose all oil pressure in the pump. I took mine all out to thoroughly clean the camshafts. Then I used Loctite and tightened them back on.

 

[rustystud]

This is another thing that needs attention. The fuel shut-off assembly. On everyone I took apart they all had crud and rust on the shafts. In picture two I'm removing the roll pin. Then you can see and clean the whole shaft and the 'O' ring that should be replaced.

 

[rustystud]

Before I started on the governor assembly I reinstalled the main housing oil supply fitting. This is just easier before the housing is on.

 

[rustystud]

The TM says to install the "sliding sleeve" on the "fulcrum" then install it on the camshaft, but I found it much easier to install the sliding sleeve on the shaft and into the governor weights first (pic 1 & 6). Then you install the fulcrum into the housing (pic 2) then the oil baffle goes in (pic 3 & 4). Now install the housing and slide the sleeve into the fulcrum (pic 5). The operating shaft assembly must be off for this as you need the space to adjust the sleeve into the fulcrum. Make sure the sleeve is fully engaged into the fulcrum and the fulcrum is engaged into the housing stud (pictures 7 & 8 ) . Then install the bolts and tighten it up.

 

[rustystud]

Now I need to install the operating shaft assembly and install and adjust the governor springs.

 

[tommys2patrick]

As always, great write-up and pics. I can't recall if you have covered this previously--do you make your own gaskets or is their kits still available? Or do you try to reuse old gaskets?

new Viton o-rings?

 

[rustystud]

As always, great write-up and pics. I can't recall if you have covered this previously--do you make your own gaskets or is their kits still available? Or do you try to reuse old gaskets?

new Viton o-rings?

The gasket kit is still available from "Ambac". Call Melody Feaster at 1-800-628-6894 . Tell her you need the gasket kit for the "PSB-6A" Bosch injection pump.

 

[rustystud]

Todays project was installing the operating shaft assembly. It took me a few hours to clean-up the housing and tap out the 1/4" fine threads and the #12 hole for the housing cover, and polish the shaft and bushing. Picture 1 shows the clean shaft for the shaft spring and plate. The spring and plate must move freely (pic 2) . You must replace the 'O' ring on the operating shaft (pic 3) . I installed a new retaining ring to hold the "stop lever" in place (pic 5) . I made a test gauge out of a spare end cover (pictures 6, 7 and 8 ) . My last pictures did not come out showing the housing installed. I'll do it again later.
This will be my last post on this build for a week or so. I need to get some other stuff finished. Priorities !

 

[rustystud]

It's time to install the "Hydraulic Head" . I know it has been posted before but it wouldn't be a rebuild thread without showing how the Hydraulic Head went on.
Pictures 1,2, and 3 show how the pointer and quill shaft gear are suppose to be aligned. Picture 4 shows the 'O' rings installed. The larger one is a "2-230-V75" and the smaller one is a ""2-227-V75" . The V stands for "Viton" . The 75 stands for the durumeter of the 'O' ring . Pictures 5 and 6 show the red marked gear and how it looks installed. Picture 7 shows the head bolted down.

 

[rustystud]

Now to install the governor springs and shims.
Picture 1 shows the operating shaft assembly adjusted. Preliminary adjustments are to set both screws to 5/32".
Picture 2 shows how the operating lever is to be positioned (idle) for taking the governor springs shim measurements.
Picture 3 is taking the measurement for the outer spring, which will have a finished gap of 0.059" .
Since I had a measurement of 0.070" (pic 4) I used a 0.010" shim (pic 5) .
Picture 6 is taking the measurement of the inner spring, which will have a finished gap of 0.158" .
Since I had a measurement of 0.433" I used a 0.275" shim (pic 7) .
Picture 8 shows the shims needed and picture 9 shows them installed along with the gasket. I then installed the cap and bolted it down.

Note: If you make your own "gage" like I did, be sure to add 0.010" to your measurements for the thickness of the gasket.