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Starter click

Cdriscoll773

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Tampa
Hello,

My M1123 has a momentary switch next to the normal off/run/start switch. To start the vehicle, you need to turn the switch to run and press the momentary which engages the starter. Lately, sometimes it just makes one loud click sound. In order to not be stranded, I figured out that I can click the momentary a couple times and the starter will come on. The batteries are only 1 year old. Should I test the batteries or the alt/generator or what are your thoughts on what this could be?
 

FlameRed

Well-known member
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Location
Florida
I had a similar problem, and the starter was bad.

Start at the Starter. Use a power probe to supply +24V to the solenoid lead on the starter a bunch of times. If it reliably cranks, then work your way back in the wiring using the power probe to see where the problem first shows.

Don't just blindly replace (expensive) parts.
 

frauhansen

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
switzerland
If your batteries were the problem, it would also turn slowly. But I don't read that here.

To me, it sounds like worn carbon brushes/collector on the starter itself.

The motor simply doesn't get enough power because the internal connection isn't working. But it's always just a tiny bit enough for it to turn a few mm further. At some point, it makes clean contact again and runs as it should.

Have it repaired or replace it.

Be careful when disassembling it. There are spacer plates installed. They have to be put back in when the old one is reinstalled. The new one has to be readjusted.
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Our starters are unique. In order to do deep water fording they are sealed. That creates a problem where particulate matter builds up from the spinning of the starter and the degradation of the brushes.

The best thing to do is open up the starter and clean it and replace the brushes. During that time, you should also make sure that the Bendix works properly.

As mentioned by many others, do not under any circumstances lose the shims.

Additionally, you could just replace the starter with a 12 V gear reduction starter, however in order to do that you would need to replace the current red thick wire with a different one that only goes to one battery (the rear one) positive lead and not both batteries. That requires some special wiring.
 
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FlameRed

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Location
Florida
I had no luck with gear reduction starters. Maybe one made in the USA would be good, but I could not find any 24V USA made gear reduction starters. I went through two. And as Tobash stated, they are not be sealed. Just more Chinesium 💩
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,994
4,173
113
Location
Brooklyn, NY
I had no luck with gear reduction starters. Maybe one made in the USA would be good, but I could not find any 24V USA made gear reduction starters. I went through two. And as Tobash stated, they are not be sealed. Just more Chinesium 💩
Use 12V starter and wire to the rear battery for only 12 Volts.

Wire in a 24V activated 12V instant on continuous solenoid to actuate the starter solenoid.
 
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