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Where to purchase new or alternative frequency gauge for MEP-802?

Chrispyny

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NY
hello all. Been a while since i posted but do pop in occasionally to see what’s new here.

My frequency gauge is shot on my 802. Went to warm it up prior to the mega snowfall the northeast experienced 2 weeks ago and the batteries were swelled and dead. Had to drop $400 on 2 51r’s literally 30 minutes into it snowing the day it came down. But i noticed my frequency gauge was dead. It was always causing me minor issues. I’d have to adjust it to a killowatt meter. Now it‘s just dead. Likely water intrusion or simple failure.
what’s the SS recommended replacement?
Thanks all!
 
Last edited:

Ray70

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IF it turns out to be the gage itself, there is a guy on ebay selling new gages for the smaller gages for the 831 etc. for $50, these will work perfectly ( I've used a couple ) but they are smaller diameter, but simply need to make a donut shaped adapter to fit it in there. IF you can locate the 3 1/2" gage for your machine, people often want $200-300 for it!. Another option if to completely ditch the transducer and gage and just get a direct reading Hz meter. These can be had real cheap, but they are Cheap from China and made from plastic. But they are like $12.
 

Chrispyny

Member
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Location
NY
Don't forget it may also be a Frequency Transducer issue and not a gauge issue.
Is there a way to test the transducer? I hate to be that guy asking all the pathetic questions but i’ve never been in the military and have a hard time negotiating the manuals often posted here for our machines.
 

Light in the Dark

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Is there a way to test the transducer? I hate to be that guy asking all the pathetic questions but i’ve never been in the military and have a hard time negotiating the manuals often posted here for our machines.
The biggest hurdle most folks encounter is not knowing which manual to use when. The information in them is very easily digestible, if you know where to look to find whats beneficial to your immediate needs.

There are manuals for the complete machine, and manuals for the engine only. Books ending -10 are Operating Instructions, -24 are the Troubleshooting Instructions, and the -24P are exploded parts diagrams.
 

vrzff

Active member
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Mont Vernon, NH
The biggest hurdle most folks encounter is not knowing which manual to use when. The information in them is very easily digestible, if you know where to look to find whats beneficial to your immediate needs.

There are manuals for the complete machine, and manuals for the engine only. Books ending -10 are Operating Instructions, -24 are the Troubleshooting Instructions, and the -24P are exploded parts diagrams.
And here I've been just randomly opening them trying to find the right one this whole time.
 

rickf

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I've only ever had 1 bad frequency gauge, but multiple bad transducers, mostly from low-hour units.

New LED / digital hz gauges have built in transducers, so all you have to do is replace the gauge with a civilian LED and wire it with the existing leads.
Don't the civilian gauges get wired direct to the power leads?
 

Guyfang

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Don't the civilian gauges get wired direct to the power leads?


Yes. The one disadvantage of that is you have the full voltage and amperage at the meter. I once let my bare arm touch such a meter. I become one mean SOB when I get shocked. To be fair, when a gen set comes new from the factory, there are two plastic caps/covers on the terminals. To help prevent that. But rare is it that they are there.
 

Farmitall

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Don't the civilian gauges get wired direct to the power leads?


Yes. The one disadvantage of that is you have the full voltage and amperage at the meter. I once let my bare arm touch such a meter. I become one mean SOB when I get shocked. To be fair, when a gen set comes new from the factory, there are two plastic caps/covers on the terminals. To help prevent that. But rare is it that they are there.
If you look at some of the larger plastic bottles that things like Ibuprophen and Tylenol come in and any other of a number of products come in, you can cut the top off and the bottom portion of the bottle can be used as a cup type shield over the back of the meters. Snip out slots for wiring as needed.
Fastening them can be done with a couple of small slits in the sides and small zip ties.
A little creativity required.

The bottom of a 32oz HDPE bottle should fit over the back of the larger panel meters on most sets. I did a cursory check just now and it looked like room to spare on the diameter. The depth (or height) required will depend on individual need.

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