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@kloppk will be along shortly. He has a solution for you speed controller issue and probably knows if the 016 head will fit on the 813's motor. I'm guessing they will bolt together, but I have no idea on how the engine controls and AC side of things would need to be integrated.

Yea radiator neck design stinks. You can get one of the funnels that attaches to the radiator neck and allows you to bleed the air out while running, or just use a flexible funnel and make only a small mess!

Not sure what will happen with the fuel sender and float assy. disconnected. If everything else was installed I know it would probably start the shut down almost immediately, but with injectors out it may still turn on the pumps and try to start, allowing you to check the pattern. All you need...

Definitely an obscure failure that pretty much no one would ever think of! this will be something to keep in mind if anyone else ever encounters a similar issue! Thanks for closing the loop! At least now you know everything else on your machine is in peak condition!

On its way!

There's a large hole directly under the engine, there's a sheet metal cover over it with a 1" space and usually foam between the space. Mice can easily climb in through this hole. It can be covered with hardware cloth or screen from underneath the generator.

I use Opti lube XPD for the lubricity ) in everything as well. Everything other than the skid steer also gets ATF added in.

On the gen head, yes you must disassemble the entire thing per the manual to separate it from the engine completely. The rotor bolts to the flywheel from the inside, requiring you to remove the end plate and the stator to access the rotor bolts. It sounds to me like the rack either has too much...

Other than a couple isolated short instances, I'm on here all the time from home and at work ( don't tell my boss ) and I never have a problem. I'm no internet Guru but I will say I get virtually no popups at all on this site, but plenty when I'm on other pages. I'm using Chrome on a laptop.

Don't look at ME! I was the one sending Toolslinger off to check his Pimp Lever! :ROFLMAO:

Well, in all fairness, whoever drew the diagram did make the shoulder on the end appear to be threaded!

Hold on, item #11 in the fuel pump diagram is the actual plunger. it should fall out but is often stuck in there with varnish. The magnetic field in the pump makes the plunger "vibrate" up and down, that's the clicking noise you're supposed to hear. Opposing check valves at each end cause the...

Excellent Tip! mice especially love the cozy, easy to access insides of the AC reconnect box! Would hate for him to literally "Fire" it up! o_O

It only moves in and out about 1/8" , if you tap on it and it feels solid it is probably moving freely and is touching the cam. Since it was rotating, that's a good sign that it is free to move. The delivery valve spacer is the thin sliver of plastic in your last photo. All it does is keep the...

People used to rave about Kroil, but your wallet will disagree! Knock'er loose is just as good or better, at like a 60% discount over Kroil.

I wouldn't rotate it yet. Take off the caps and fill it with acetone and let it sit several days. I just had one last month, linkage was free but plunger was stuck and previous owner had cranked it over and split the plunger guide. Not the end of the world, but better if you can soak it and...

Saw it! You can start by moving the throttle lever on the side of the IP. If it is frozen, then do not rotate the motor at all! Go to the TM section of this forum and locate the MEP-003A info. In it you will find tons of additional info about the IP. Determine if you have an Ambac M-50 or an...

I assume the throttle knob is pulled out some? maybe 3/4 of the way out? If the FSS is pulling back and the lever is moving to the right as the FSS retracts, the only things I can think of are Metering pumps are stuck in the compressed position, the pins are not in the rack slots correctly or...

Yes, there should be a flat copper washer that seals the injector to the head. I assume it's not stuck to the tip of the injector, covered in carbon.... looking like steel??

Pump shims in my opinion are not critical. if you're in the right ballfield it will run just fine. When in doubt I've always just thrown in 2 black shims and called it a day, never had a problem. On the injectors I'd pull them out and move the lines off to the side and just use the engine and...