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CTIS Connector issue

daniauction

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Florida
Hello Guys

I think the CTIS system is not working. When I unplug the connector I found that one pin it's missing on the male, but I think is inside the female connector .See attached pictures
How can I fix it? or where can I find a new connector ?
Thank You
 

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Ronmar

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yep, that controller is toast... the connector needs some luv as well. it may be salvageable though if you can extract the pin without doing any further damage... based on the overall condition though, i would replace the harness and connector if you can find one. Or since you also need a controller(they don't have a great track record), cut it off and use a few switches and pressure gauge to go manual CTIS control...
 

daniauction

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Florida
THANK YOU 🙏
yep, that controller is toast... the connector needs some luv as well. it may be salvageable though if you can extract the pin without doing any further damage... based on the overall condition though, i would replace the harness and connector if you can find one. Or since you also need a controller(they don't have a great track record), cut it off and use a few switches and pressure gauge to go manual CTIS control...
yep, that controller is toast... the connector needs some luv as well. it may be salvageable though if you can extract the pin without doing any further damage... based on the overall condition though, i would replace the harness and connector if you can find one. Or since you also need a controller(they don't have a great track record), cut it off and use a few switches and pressure gauge to go manual CTIS control...
Can you let me know how to do it ?
 

Ronmar

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THANK YOU 🙏


Can you let me know how to do it ?
Here is a video of my current version that I built into my panel. The first version is also show in another one of my youtube vids. The second vid is of the current wiring diagram…my first prototype used the original controller with the guts scooped out and an old mechanical oil pressure gauge, pretty simple, 3 switches and a pressure gauge. The current one I added a latching relay and a dual pressure gauge that monitors air supply from the wet tank as well as the tire pressure from the port on the PCU where the controller measures it. I always use a momentary for the actual air supply solenoid/process to make it more difficult to accidentally leave it inflating the air-bombs we call wheels…



 

ckouba

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I had controller issues and it became unresponsive. I was pointed toward (and installed) the Ronmar CTIS system and haven't thought twice about chasing down another controller. It is a great mod with ability to set the pressure to whatever you actually want- just don't leave it on inflate or deflate as he mentioned. Both lead to bad things.
 

GeneralDisorder

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I mean.... the tires are RATED at 100 psi. And generally things like pressure vessels are tested to 1.5x - 2x of their rating. So it's highly unlikely for a tire to fail even if the system was inadvertently left in the inflate mode. The compressor should unload at 125 though if the governor were entirely bypassed the system could rise to the over-pressure relief valve of the drier........ multiple failures together with very old tires might get you there and it would be an EVENT you and anyone in a mile radius would never forget if they lived to tell the tale.

But all that is very unlikely unless SPC Wank and PVT Pharts are AWOL on shrooms.

I've seen guys with Jeeps put 120 psi in their spare so they could deflate for crawling and then use the additional air in the spare tire to bring their 4 driving tires back up to a reasonable road pressure without having on-board air. It's definitely ghetto and dangerous and stupid but yeah..... guys do that isht.
 

aw113sgte

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eBay. Depends on the day and phases of the moon. $250 to $850 typically. From Dana the military pays about $2,200
I've purchased a few on ebay that were described as "likely inoperable" Paid about $60 for them. They've been working perfectly well. Seems the army just replaces them when their CTIS doesn't work without any verification of where the problem lies.
 

GeneralDisorder

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I've purchased a few on ebay that were described as "likely inoperable" Paid about $60 for them. They've been working perfectly well. Seems the army just replaces them when their CTIS doesn't work without any verification of where the problem lies.
That happens A LOT. I have a stack of C7 ECM's due to that.... Current acquisition price - $11,700 per unit. They just wing parts at stuff and many units don't even have the proper diagnostic tools or they do and have zero clue how to use them properly.

Partially it's a training problem but it's also the same issue we have on the civilian side. No one (statistically) is entering these career paths anymore. And the one's that do are not the best and brightest.

We see lots of "blame the computer" technicians due to fundamental lack of understanding and huge gulfs in troubleshooting abilities. The IETM's help but they can only do so much hand holding. The fear and loathing of computers in my trade is real and dangerous. Thus the "delete the CTIS! It sucks!" Crowd around our little community even.
 

GeneralDisorder

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I don’t want to delete it out of fear, i want to delete it out of lack of necessity, and it’s high failure rate, specifically the controller itself…:) Cant count how many 5 solid discussions we have had around here…
Sure. I get it. But really, like most electronics, they last about 15-20 years. Fortunately, like a lot of misunderstood electronics, they are everywhere and pretty inexpensive surplus. Like @aw113sgte mentioned - $60 and the likelihood of them working means, at most, it might take two or three to find a good one. Surplus world. Just like alternators - I have had about a dozen 260 and 300 alternators come through my possession - all of them have worked flawlessly - none of them cost more than $750. Surplus. It's how we got the truck for 10-20% of MSRP - why should any of the component parts be significantly different? The answer is that they aren't.

I just continue to apply the same logic that got me the truck in the first place. Been working great for me.

Fortunately, with the CTIS system specifically, it doesn't really matter if it works at all. I carry a spare but should both of my controllers fail - well the system is not a necessity at the end of the day. Like the alternator - I can drive without it if I have to. It may just take a little longer and require some additional planning to charge the batteries via an alternate method. We have members of this forum that have daily driven their trucks without working alternators.....
 
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daniauction

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Florida
I see many CTIS systems on eBay that are branded Spicer, and my truck has one that's branded Eaton. Is there any difference, or are they the same?
 

GeneralDisorder

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I see many CTIS systems on eBay that are branded Spicer, and my truck has one that's branded Eaton. Is there any difference, or are they the same?
Dana, Spicer, Eaton. Same company.

What you have to watch is pre/post J1939 compatible. The older modules will burn up the J1939 termination resistors without a little modification to prevent it. They will still work just require an additional simple step of removing the J1939 pins from the older module (not used anyway).
 

daniauction

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Florida
Woof. That's wrecked. The CTIS sub-harness is replaceable. I wouldn't even mess with that. Get a new controller and replace the harness:

Hi @GeneralDisorder
I ask the ebay seller to send me a picture of the connector to see if it the same as my but , look like teh same but for what i can see the pins M, L, K, Y and V do not have a pin input
 

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