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New-to-me-803A!

Tinstar

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Can I use CRC QD Contact Cleaner? I can get that at Lowes... the Deoxit I'd have to order.
I have this product also and it works very well.
It’s just as it says. A cleaner only.

As already mentioned, the Deoxit product does more than just clean.
Cleans( removes oxidation), Seals, Protects Connections

I also went through two cans getting my 803A up to speed.

It simply works.
 

Fungal

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Alright... so the hexagonal cap screw/nuts that are used to put the housing together... does anybody have a good source for those?

I think it's these? "SCREW,CAP,HEXAGON H 2 19 10 PAOZZ PAOZZ PAOZZ 96906 MS51412-4"

As I've been mucking about in the guts of this generator, I've noticed that somebody (probably multiple somebodies) has been in here before, and some of the hexagonal screws have been replaced with random phillips-head, etc screws, and some of the original ones are intolerably rusty. It'd be nice to get a box of new ones, preferably with the captive locknut.

Also, that's one can of Deoxit down so far... I'm loosening/spraying/retightening pretty much every terminal in this thing.
 

Tinstar

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You will use all these sizes on the generator in different areas, just the lengths I was unsure about.
These were recommended to me when I was working on my 803A.

I went with stainless since several of the bolts on mine were rusted. No more.
Only bad thing about stainless is when you drop one, can't use a magnet to retrieve it.
 

Guyfang

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We stocked ALL the fasteners for any supported gen set, in what we called Bench Stock. Why, because rare was it that they were all there, the right ones there or they were no longer serviceable. If your going to even think about replacing a few, might as well do them all. You don't need to do them all at once. But when you take something apart, put new fasteners in. They are not that costly. The TM tells you exactly how many of any fastener is in the set. So its not hard to figure out what you need.
 

Ray70

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One thing I would double check on is the number of windings through the CT assembly. I don't know off hand how many are in an 803 but I can tell you that an 003 has 2 winds of 2 for 4 total and an 002 has 4 wraps of 2 so 8 wires per hole.
You appear to have ~8 wires, meaning an 802 would need 16 through each hole, which I don't think would fit very well through the holes.
Very Very unlikely that it would be incorrect, but I would double check it for sure!
And Deoxit the crap out of the switches while you're in there!
 

Fungal

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Next question: Is there a tutorial or guide on hooking up an external fuel tank?

I'm wondering who has done it, and how they did it.
 

Light in the Dark

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Nothing really to speak of. Hook a fuel line to the inlet upper right of the fuel filler neck and get it interfaced with your vessel of choice. When running the machine, after starting set the S1 to 12 o clock position. That will activate the circuit responsible for the machine refilling itself from an external source. Can't be much simpler.
 

WWRD99

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Next question: Is there a tutorial or guide on hooking up an external fuel tank?

I'm wondering who has done it, and how they did it.
When I hooked up mine I had to figure out the thread on the intake line next to the filler neck. Mine did not have the factory extra line rolled up in the door. I took the cap off and took it to a hydro shop and they made me a really nice hose. I attached it to a solid 3/8 lined steel line I put double flare cap nut ends on. It is probably a massive overkill but I didn't want 300 gallons of diesel to end up in the yard if they broke. I was thinking of putting a vacuum switch on the output of the tank but never got around to it. I have one on my oil furnace that only lets oil out if the pump is turned on and it sees vacuum in the line. If the line breaks it won't leak out. I pull from the bottom of the tank with the tank tilted towards the output so all of it could come out. I put a normal oil furnace filter on the output with a manual shut off valve at the tank. I have several home oil tanks setup up in tandem that I can tap into at anytime. I have a 275 gallon plastic oil tank as well, the one with the metal frame wrapped all around it. I can't remember what they are called...Edit....IBC tote, That is full as well. That tank I can move around with a loader if need be and take it to the station and fill it up. I can put it in my truck or strap it in my trailer and take it where I need it. I do not have an external lift pump from the tanks to the genset. So far it is about 50 feet away and the internal pump in the genset pulls just fine. Really not a hard thing to do once you get the line hooked to the genset.
 
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Fungal

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IMG_1023.jpeg

I have one of these that I keep around the farm as a transfer tank. I’m planning on siting it right next to the radiator end of the genset. I’m wondering if I can come right off that brass fitting and to the generator.
 

Light in the Dark

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I'd say that would be pretty easy, just need a fuel line with the right AN/JIC hose end on the machine, and whatever step down may be needed to get to the right hose diameter on that fitting, with a hose clamp. Is that normally a supply line, or a return line? I assume supply, but I hate to assume.

Does that tank have a breather/pressure equalizing feature?
 

Fungal

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Looking at it again, I think that brass fitting might be the pressure valve.

There is a drain-plug on the bottom corner (visible in the pic) that they recommend for gravity-feed as a truck-bed aux tank. Might be better to use that instead.
 
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