What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

[KKroger]

No doubt. The Guy mentioned the wrench... As for building one my time is worth more than that wrench...

a piece of tubing is what I’ve used since these things were invented…a mostly the tire iron in the jack kit.

 

[BLK HMMWV]

I just use my hand . Getting the wrench out and then re stowing it is more of a pain.

 

[Mainsail]

I just use my hand .

Yeah, but I don't want my palms getting hairy...

That one link has the wrench for cheap enough I may get one, but the home depot pipe is working great.

 

[FlameRed]

I am no AC expert by any means, and I post this in case it might be helpful to any members like me that sweat when it is 70 degrees outside!

Living in the Florida Inferno, it is difficult to AC a helmet top when it is 100 degrees outside. I have struggled with various AC failures, leaking evaporator, compressor failure, and various AC leaks. So I am learning a lot.

I decided that I would attempt to add a rear AC evaporator to see if that would help. I was advised against it on AC forums by the experts as there is evidently a need for larger condenser and fans. But since the last couple of weeks brought freezing temps here, I did not have to sweat to death putting in a rear evap. I did no other changes to the AC system.

The key piece was to obtain a 'T' AC fitting. I needed two, one for size #10, and the other for #6. Here is where I got them:




A/C FITTING,3 WAY BEADLOCK TEE HOSE SPLICE #6 BL6201

AC A/C FITTING,3 WAY BEADLOCK TEE HOSE SPLICE #10 BL6203

If you do this, check your hose sizes as they may be different.

Of course you will need proper AC crimping tools, vacuum pump, recovery equipment, gauges, etc that I had already. I got about 10 feet of #6 and #10 AC line, the same evap as I used in the front, the above connectors, an ounce of PAG oil, and some 14 gauge wire.

First I hooked up the recovery machine, and captured the Freon in the system. I just cut the hoses under the frame where they went up to the front evap. It is somewhat a PITA to crimp the hoses on the rig underneath, but I managed without too much cussing.

I then cut a hole in the rear divider and drilled three holes up into the rear bed, two for the AC hoses and one for the condensation drip line. Route the AC hoses so they don't get tangled in the drive shift, or melted by the exhaust. It might be good to put some insulation around them, but I got lazy and did not.



I kept the subwoofer, and old fans to move air, but I don't think I will need the hokey fans anymore. Yes, I have to hide the wires a bit better.

For electrical connections, I ran a hot 24v lead from the front evap motor directly to the rear evap motor, bypassing all the rear AC controls. So whatever fan speed I set the front to, the rear matches the same speed!

I then checked for leaks with a sniffer, multiple times over multiple days, and for the first time no leaks!

I built a wooden box using 2x10 lumber to protect the rear evap from getting crushed by the heavy stuff I have in the rear. Yes, I lost some rear carry capacity. I drilled three two inch holes and used a bit of window screen so the rear evap could breathe.



I'll have to wait for the Florida Inferno to return to judge the effectiveness. No worries, it a few weeks it should be in the 90's!

 

[KKroger]

I am no AC expert by any means, and I post this in case it might be helpful to any members like me that sweat when it is 70 degrees outside!

Living in the Florida Inferno, it is difficult to AC a helmet top when it is 100 degrees outside. I have struggled with various AC failures, leaking evaporator, compressor failure, and various AC leaks. So I am learning a lot.

I decided that I would attempt to add a rear AC evaporator to see if that would help. I was advised against it on AC forums by the experts as there is evidently a need for larger condenser and fans. But since the last couple of weeks brought freezing temps here, I did not have to sweat to death putting in a rear evap. I did no other changes to the AC system.

The key piece was to obtain a 'T' AC fitting. I needed two, one for size #10, and the other for #6. Here is where I got them:


View attachment 962495

A/C FITTING,3 WAY BEADLOCK TEE HOSE SPLICE #6 BL6201

AC A/C FITTING,3 WAY BEADLOCK TEE HOSE SPLICE #10 BL6203

If you do this, check your hose sizes as they may be different.

Of course you will need proper AC crimping tools, vacuum pump, recovery equipment, gauges, etc that I had already. I got about 10 feet of #6 and #10 AC line, the same evap as I used in the front, the above connectors, an ounce of PAG oil, and some 14 gauge wire.

First I hooked up the recovery machine, and captured the Freon in the system. I just cut the hoses under the frame where they went up to the front evap. It is somewhat a PITA to crimp the hoses on the rig underneath, but I managed without too much cussing.

I then cut a hole in the rear divider and drilled three holes up into the rear bed, two for the AC hoses and one for the condensation drip line. Route the AC hoses so they don't get tangled in the drive shift, or melted by the exhaust. It might be good to put some insulation around them, but I got lazy and did not.

View attachment 962497

I kept the subwoofer, and old fans to move air, but I don't think I will need the hokey fans anymore. Yes, I have to hide the wires a bit better.

For electrical connections, I ran a hot 24v lead from the front evap motor directly to the rear evap motor, bypassing all the rear AC controls. So whatever fan speed I set the front to, the rear matches the same speed!

I then checked for leaks with a sniffer, multiple times over multiple days, and for the first time no leaks!

I built a wooden box using 2x10 lumber to protect the rear evap from getting crushed by the heavy stuff I have in the rear. Yes, I lost some rear carry capacity. I drilled three two inch holes and used a bit of window screen so the rear evap could breathe.

View attachment 962496

I'll have to wait for the Florida Inferno to return to judge the effectiveness. No worries, it a few weeks it should be in the 90's!

I put a Reddot Evap in my helmet top... the bigger problem we face is lack of any sort of insulation and a large volume... MOST SUV have enough HVAC to do an entire house. So here I sit with a helmet top that is warm in the summer and cold in the winter. I also added Rear heat.

 

[FlameRed]

I put a Reddot Evap in my helmet top... the bigger problem we face is lack of any sort of insulation and a large volume... MOST SUV have enough HVAC to do an entire house. So here I sit with a helmet top that is warm in the summer and cold in the winter. I also added Rear heat.View attachment 962569

I had considered getting a Reddot. There is a whole system for sale over in the BST forum. But paying $2k was a bit much when the Chinesium 24V evap was a little over $100. Yeah, most are junk and will leak in a few months, but I finally found one that does not come with builtin leaks.

I learned that when a compressor grenades, you can flush out the lines, but the dryer, evaps and condenser MUST be replaced.

 

[KKroger]

I had considered getting a Reddot. There is a whole system for sale over in the BST forum. But paying $2k was a bit much when the Chinesium 24V evap was a little over $100. Yeah, most are junk and will leak in a few months, but I finally found one that does not come with builtin leaks.

I learned that when a compressor grenades, you can flush out the lines, but the dryer, evaps and condenser MUST be replaced.

I used the RedDot evap. with a sanden 24V clutch coil compressor, a parallel core condenser and a RedDot Dryer... the wiring harness is universal per se' not specifically for this application. I have considered putting in a small 24V evap up front and a cross dash duct... but too much trouble... was just over $1500 total. I added a few extra connections and do need to take it apart one of these days and put in my bulkhead pass through in the floor... IF I do that I may get a front evap too but probably not. Its not COLD but it keeps me from sweating out gallons of fluid...

 

[KKroger]

I had posted about installing the rear/AUX heat unit a while back but I never posted the finality of it. The White square is the temp in white at top of thermal, temp in RED is the hottest point and temp in GREEN is coolest. I snapped this thermal pic on the way home from work yesterday.
Bottom hose is IN from engine, top hose is OUT from heater return to engine. Plenum air is around 110F works way better then the OEM setup.
More surface area stronger fans and more vents.

 

[Cybul]

I replaced the bulbs that illuminate the clocks.
And I picked up a “custom-made” mounting base for the Harris radio.
Before and after:


And plate (ready for painting):

 

[FlameRed]

Update on the rear AC I posted above. Since the Florida inferno has now reached the low 90's here it is working really well. So glad I did the rear AC! Cost was about $300. Well worth it.